This problem is really driving me crazy so any help is appreciated. I bought my truck about 2 yrs. ago with 150,000 mi. Drove it for a while and the rotors warped, so i had them turned and replaced the phenolic calipers with steel ones because they were dragging. Ran fine for a while and then they warped again. This time I replaced the master cylinder because it wasnt releasing fluid and the rubber lines that go to the caliber. Also replaced the rotors with two from autozone because the old ones were too thin. After all this work and about 6,000 mi. later, they are warped again. Could it be inferior rotors? I don't drive that hard, although I do alot of city driving here in hot south Texas. Any kind of suggestions would be great, I'm running out of ideas.

thanks,
Travis

 

Throughout all of this, who has been putting your wheels on? If they use a bare air impact gun, or a socket, & cheaterbar, then they aren't torquing the nuts properly, nor as evenly as they could.

This is a BIG thing these days, and reputable shops all have torque-limiting impact gun extensions (different thicknesses), or use torque-wrenches to tighten wheels on to hubs that have disk brakes.

Granted, on a truck it would be a lot harder to cause warpage in our big rotors, but if someone is using some device to get too much torque, or fully tightening down one lug at a time instead of building up torque gradulally through tightening in a a star-pattern, it can lead to warpage.

Make sure the surface of the wheels that contact the rotors are not corroded or warped in any way (that would cause the rotor to conform to it due to the constant pulling by the nuts).

Lastly, don't buy junk - buy Raybestos rotors - period.

 

Make sure your back brakes are adjusted up sometimes if they don't get adjusted up properly the front breaks have to work harder then they are supposed to causing heat. I have heard alot about the F150 rotors warping, one guy on here said he had a luck with the cros cut rotors, but I don't know first hand.

good luck
Scott

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 30-Jun-02 AT 02:15 AM (EST)]Use your parking brake!

If you don't your rear brakes won't adjust, you'll be stopping on the fronts only and warp your rotors.

I guarantee if you could see the piece inside your trans that keeps the truck from rolling away you'd never just put it in park again.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I've always used a torquewrench to tighten my lugs in fear of warping the rotors, and i always do it in the correct pattern. I guess I'll check out the rear brakes, although they should be self adjusting after the initial adjustment is set, correct? I occasionaly use my parking brake, although I thought that just applying the brakes when in reverse will adjust them if needed. I'm also seriously contemplating buying a set of Raybestos rotors and pads instead of turning my old ones in hope that they are better quality. Hey, its only money, but I guess you get what you pay for.

 

I finally found some time so i jacked up the front wheels and it turns out the pads are dragging too much, probably causing the rotors to warp. Is there any other valve, etc. that would cause fluid not to release? I have been told that my brakes are way to touchy, so they must not be releasing fluid. Thanks in advance.

Travis

 

Well, when old brake lines begin to deteriorate, they are commonly known to fail inside, and this creates a valve-like effect that doesn't allow fluid to return. If the (rubberized) brake lines have never been replaced, it's probably time to do them.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jul-02 AT 04:15 PM (EST)]Very interesting. I did not know setting the parking brake adjusted brakes. I started using mine recently, and last night, it felt like it did not completely release. It did not set that hard either (I was thinking about tightening the parking brake linkage). Do they ever over adjust the rear brakes?

I set and released the brake several times, but it never felt right. It was raining and I only had to go 1 mile so I went on. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but I'm afraid to drive it if I'm dragging a brake, or worse yet have a bad bearing.

If the park brake is stuck on, how will I ever pull the drum!

 

I've replaced the rubber lines to the calipers recently, at the same time I did the master cylinder. I also checked the metal lines to see if they were pinched and found nothing. Could the proportioning valve or any other sensor, etc. cause this problem? What is the sensor that the line from the master cylinder runs into and then out of to the front brakes? It is on top of the framerail below the master cylinder and has some kind of push on electrical connector. Just trying to think of anything that might be a problem.

 

>Very interesting. I did not know setting the parking brake
>adjusted brakes. I started using mine recently, and last
>night, it felt like it did not completely release. It did
>not set that hard either (I was thinking about tightening
>the parking brake linkage). Do they ever over adjust the
>rear brakes?
>
>I set and released the brake several times, but it never
>felt right. It was raining and I only had to go 1 mile so I
>went on. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but I'm
>afraid to drive it if I'm dragging a brake, or worse yet
>have a bad bearing.
>
>If the park brake is stuck on, how will I ever pull the
>drum!

I seem to remember a TSB on a problem with the parking brake pedal assy. You might want to check into that. Never had a problem with mine.

I've got 115K on my rears (I don't do any towing or heavy hauling) and they still have some meat left. I check 'em whenever I rotate tires.

There should be access to the adjusters through the backing plate to manually back 'em off or you could disconnect the cable.

 

I had the 'recall' done on my parking brake - it consisted of putting in some kind of shim or small piece of metal (at least that was my impression). It only took the Ford mechanic a few minutes to do, and there was no discernable difference betweeen before and after. I have no clue what the part looked like, or what it affected.

Other truck years may be different though.

 

I had front calipers that were hanging up.
I finally replaced the Front brake hoses. Then the hanging up stopped.
The front hoses can not be removed untill the steel brake line that runs from the left to the right side is disconnected (on my 1996).
I replaced the steel brake line ($5). Then the rubber hoses ($20 a piece).
good luck

 

I have never had any luck turning rotors that where warped bad. They usually work for a while but as soon as you get them hot you get your problem back.
Most autoparts stores carry 2 lines of rotors cheap ones and good ones. Buy only the best and you shouldn't have anymore problems provided there is nothing mechanically wrong.
I have 35" tires on my Bronco and sometimes when I tow my boat I get my front brakes so hot that they have smoke coming off them when I have to stop quick. I have not warped a set of rotors yet.

 

That would be the antilock brake valve.If it had a problem the abs light should come on.Does your truck have front and rear antilocks?My 90 only has rear and the valve is between the master cylinder and the rear brakes.You might want to check the wheel bearings.Improperly torqued wheel bearings could cause or contribute to the wheels dragging and heat build up.

Billy