Can you add a CV joint to a regular pre-78 drive shaft? I'd like to either find a drive shaft with one for the front of my 75 f100, but if it's possible to just add one to a drive shaft that's without one I'd just go that way. My drive shaft is too short right now anyways so adding the collar would get me about back to where I want it to be. Let me know!

 

Don't know. Never tried. I'd assume the cost of a CV joint would be about the same cost as a junk yard shaft that already has a CV.


Do you have a drive shaft shop near you?

 

The cost, from JBC at least, is $35 for the CV head, $30 for the collar, and then the cost of the new yoke and conversion seal. I've checked the local junk yards and any of the trucks/broncos that would have had them someone has already beat me to it. There is a local shop around called Sam Winers. I just don't want to shell out $200+ for a new drive shaft. Just would like to have that joint for a little better angle.

 

Yoke on the transfer case if different. But Yes, you can have a cv welded onto your shaft, swap out that yoke, and good to go.

The cv bolts to the yoke, wile your current one should have u bolts holding the joint in. The holes in the cv yoke are closer to the center of the yoke than the u bolt style if I remember right.

 

What are the plans for the truck? Could be a good time to upgrade if power/bigger tires/traction/etc are coming. I just got a dshaft from tom wood, haven't run it yet, but seems like a high quality piece. Most likely will need to rebuild it even if you find a junkyard shaft anyway, so I'd go to a shop and see what it would cost to add the pieces/length. Shop I go to is not cheap, probably not that far off from a complete new/bigger/beefier one.

 

Oh so the CV would have to be welded to the drive shaft? I have no idea how they are put together so I didn't know that. I thought there was a thread on here somewhere where a guy wrote up a thing about how to disassemble the collar and change out the u-joints but I can't find it.

I don't plan to do much more to the truck as it sits how I want with the tire size I want. It's a 75 f100, 6" BDS springs up front and a few inches added in the back, tires are the 36x12.5 TSL's, 390/T18/NP205, D44/9".

I haven't had any drive line issues thus far with u-joints or anything other than just the front drive shaft angle. It's too much at the transfer case. I know you have to spend money on this kind of stuff to make it right, just trying to find the simplest way to solve this issue. Truck's just used for mud bogging and some trails, nothing hardcore. I don't baby it but I don't try and tear it to pieces if that makes sense.

 

Fixt


Yeah a CV isn't a bolt in deal for a non CV shaft. Don't trust anything you hear on FTE

 

None at all.


I treat my truck like a vagina.

 

Neutral dropping the vjay, poor Lauren

 

Do the 78-79 broncos have the CV joint on the rear shafts? I never bothered to look at the bronco at the junkyard, only looked at the front drive shaft. If it has it and say it's 30" collapsed, could I have it shortened? The current drive shaft has a running length of 27" but needs to be about an inch longer since I've lifted the front more.

 

Ive never rung my shaft off though. Must be a 1480


Yes, broncos have a CV on the rear shaft at the t-case. Paul's driveshaft is about 33" at ride height - 4" lift 205 flange yoke and long pinion yoke on the sterling 10.25.

Yes you can shorten shafts pretty cheap.

 

^lolllers

x2, cv shafts front/rear on teh Broncos

 

Cool thanks for the help!

 

Here's my cv. I got all parts ordered in individual and sealed spicer joints added. Prob ran me $250 just for this.



The big 1350 cv's are usually for a 3 1/2" shaft. You could add a cv from a front driveshaft in a 70's pickup but they are 1330 joints and weak.
I've made my own shafts with no issues. As long as cv is square cut on a lathe(or brand new) and shaft is either cut perfectly square in lathe or with a pipe wrap and zip cut, just a matter of bottoming cv down and weld er up. You could then get it balanced at a shop. If its a front shaft just run it. It doesn't see high speeds.

You need to keep in mind diff angle needs to be pointed up for a proper shaft angle to function properly.

 

Don't let 1330 joints deceive you as being "weak". Considering I'm putting close to 1000 hp to the ground in my ranger, I still run all 1330 joints. Most of the time it's excessive angles that break the joints when they are put into a bind. Just clearing up more bad info on FTE.....