I have a 54 f100 with a locked up 239 y in it will a 272 y out of a 57 f100 bolt right in it ?

 

Hi Rat Rod, and welcome to FTE. Sorry your post kinda slipped through the cracks, let me move it over here to the 48/56 forum for you. These folks know their stuff, and I'm sure they'll help you out

 

Welcome to FTE!
I'm pretty sure the 272 should drop right in. Someone should be along to confirm that for me. There are only 3 bolts holding the engine on. One in front and two on the bell housing.
What are you going to do with that 239? Parts for that engine are getting scarce.
Those of us that have them are always watching for spare parts.

 

The 57 272 front motor mount is different than the 54 239 front mount so other than that its a direct bolt in swap

 

Be sure to use the newer distributor and carburetor.
Do not toss the '54 239. The (few) folks that run them can use parts. The crank is certainly specific to it, as are the cams, distributor gear, and probably the oil pump. The gerotor oil pump is rebuildable to (relatively) modern standards with a Melling kit. I just rebuilt two from my Y-blocks.
Other more compatable parts are also keepers, such as starter, water pump and the fan mount/bearing ***'y.

And, assuming that it has the correct front timing cover mount, it should drop right in. If not, you can probably use the cover from your 239. The road draft tube should be mounted differently and, if it doesn't have a PCV, you may wish to add one.

Melling gerotor pump rebuild kit number is K56. It's an easy rebuild and the pumps are worthy of being rebuilt. See: http://www.omnitek.co/mellingweb/Par...rt=K-56&From=A

 

As mentioned above, the installation of these two engines is a bit different. While the blocks have the same attachment bolt holes, a lot of the bolt on stuff is a bit different. Take lots of pictures of your 239 before you pull it. That way when you are swapping parts onto your 272 you will know what needs swapping.

Not mentioned above, my memory is that the 54 water pump is a one year only part and provides the fan mount. You will probably need to swap this over too.

If you are keeping your truck 6 volt you will want to swap the 54 generator and starter. If you are converting to 12 volt, keep the 57 generator and starter. Make sure you have the correct voltage regulator for whichever generator you choose.

 

Thanks y'all for the info I got the motor pulled and the mounts changed out I had to use the crank pulley off my 239 because the 272 pulley wouldn't go all the way on there . I ran into a problem when Putin the trans on the motor the top two trans bolt holes are broke off the I didn't know when I bought it . Will timing cover and water pump off the 239 bolt on the 272 so i can use the 54 fan because the way I got it now I goin to have to use a electric fan because it hits the crank pulley

 

The timing covers should swap out readily, but, the timing cover should be centered about the damper seal hole or it is quite likely to leak.
I have a home made tool for this that I simply turned on the lathe.

 

I don't have a lathe or able to get my hands on one . What if I put the pully on befor I torque the timing cover down will that line it up so it want leak ?

 

That is the way I do it. Be sure to use sealer on all the timing cover bolts as some or all go into the water jacket

 

I don't know if the bigger engines are like this, here's a shot of a 239 showing the bushing that fit on the oil seal and a 239 pulley.

 

I will try it hopefully it will work for me too . And thanks to telling me about the cover bolts . Pintoplumber my pulley look different then yours does .

 

The original truck pulley was dual sheeve. One groove for the generator and water pump belt to run and one groove for the fan belt to run.

 

Yep that is the one I have on my motor the dual sheeve