Hey guys, I recently got THE DEAL, and I was able to get the Flowtech Ceramic coated headers (32502 for our 302Ws) for $136 from Amazon (they range usually in the $300-400), so needless to say I'm HAPPY . Now, if anyone has installed either these or the 12502 (painted model of the same header) I would like to have any info you can share regarding the installation, other modifications required to fit them, protecting other parts (i.e.: the starter) and anything else I need to get (ARP bolts? header gasket?) to do this job right the first time.

Flowtech supplies the header bolts, but I'm sure they aren't up to the ARP standards. Oh, and if you decide to share any links please use the ones from Amazon, because currently I can only get stuff from them (I have a gift card and there are currency exchange restrictions, long story...).

 

Jegs used to make a wrap for a starter that worked very well on a mustang I used to own. It would bake a starter in a couple of months until I installed the wrap. Its really simple in design, has a reflective material on the outside and wraps the whole starter. I dont know if they still make them or not but I am sure there is someone who makes them.

 

Something like lava-wrap maybe, personally I would wrap the headers were they run near the starter, but I've read that it can harm them, so I guess warpping the starter is my best bet, I'll see into that, anything else?.

 

Buy some quality header gaskets. I dont know what brand comes with the headers, but I would throw them away. Again someone used to make a sandwiched copper gasket for headers, but I cant recall who it was. If torqued properly and checked after a few miles of driving it ALMOST eliminated header gasket leaks. And you might want to get a set of locking header bolts. I believe arp makes them. And as always use some anti seize on them.

 

Hate to break it to you but these headers are crap, build wise they're good enough but somewhere along the way they completely eff'd up the jig and now these things hang WAY to low and the head tubes are so long the collectors sit right up against the trans cross member making installing the rest of the exhaust nearly impossible. If I were to ever use these again I'd have to cut about 6" out of each head tube and cut the collector in half just to make fit respectably.

 

These should work right?

They are copper and I did the "check fit" thing to a 93 XL Bronco with a 5.0 and it says it will fit... I found a set on Summit Racing but couldn't find the same set on Amazon. these Mr. Gasket ones are the only ones I see.

 

I think I'll get the gaskets here in Venezuela, the ARP bolts are a must apparently.

 

Appart from cutting each head tube (feasible but a pain) is there any other possible fix for this? and mine being a 4WD might be a little different than your setup, I hope that spares me some grief.

 

No my truck is a 4x4. Here's a pic showing what I'm talking about, it would be easier to go under the cross member on this side but the drivers side is another story. There's no good reason for these things to come so far back, the older set of Flowtech headers I had fit much better, the head tubes were shorter and the collector higher, so it was almost a straight shot back from there to connect the rest of the exhaust.

 

Wow, they do hang very low, I'll have a shop do the install, so they'll have to deal with that, any other issues you can mention? how long should I expect these to last? there is very little corrosion going on in my country/city, and it doesn't snow.

What do you guys think about these? are they the right size?:

 

Hey Encho, Like I said, I've had mixed results with the Flotec headers. I put some ceramic-coated Flotecs on a small block Chevy (383) and they fought me the whole way. I had to open up the header bolt holes to get them to fit. I put another set on a Mustang and fit was good....ceramic coating was crap! I've got some JBA's for my 93 Bronco but they're not installed yet. (Saving $$$)!!
On my 78 and 79's, I always used L&L. Great quality fit and finish.
Wow, Conanski....they do hang down a little low!!

 

I've got some Hooker Headers for my 78, haven't installed them yet (more or less lazyness and other issues in the way). I've heard good things about hooker and the build quality seems alright.

I think for the money Encho paid, if he had to drill out the holes or replace a gasket once or twice, he still got a damn good deal. I've had mine for so long I forgot how much I paid for them... I haven't even painted them yet!

 

Hi Echo, I see you are running with a 5.0L. Did you consider the Ford Racing OEM header for the Lightning? I was fortunate to pick up the last one in stock at this US vendor:

STAINLESS STEEL "SHORTY" HEADERS 1990-95 F-Series Truck M-9430-T50

Sure its considerably more but with my 94 F150 flare side still with the stock steal exhaust I figured they might need to be replaced in the future like the ones on my 90 Bronco. In that case I picked up a set of Pacesetter Ford Bronco Headers from Discount Catalytic Converters PN: P40701322
Paid $197 delivered, they are now about $40 more. I mated it with a Dynomax low flow y-pipe with cat. Had to take it to a shop to message the y pipe as it just was off by a hair. Did my reading on the Ford headers, all say they are bolt in direct fits so I am going to try them when I have to do this job again.

Good luck

 

Conanski, what did you do with the O2 sensor? did you have to relocate it?. BTW, the manual states to run several heating cycles on the headers before installing them to cure the ceramic coating and prevent crackings from the extreme temps, can this be done with a kitchen oven?.

 

Encho I looked into this heating cycle thing and some say you can just do it on the engine..
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/...coated-Headers

Just run it and recheck the bolts I guess. Although if you could fit them in your kitchen oven it would probably work. Just have to get the temperature.