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Adjusting the front wheel bearings

 
  #1  
Old 08-30-2013, 06:23 PM
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Adjusting the front wheel bearings

Hello all. I usually post in the diesel forums, so this is my first post here. I just changed out rotor/pads on my 88 Bronco 4X4 and had a question. For the first 10 miles or so light smoke was coming from both front wheels and the wheels felt really warm, but not hot. The smoke stopped, but the wheels are still warm when you initially stop. I'm wondering if I adjusted the bearings to tight, or is this normal. This is my son's truck, and the smoke has me double thinking my repair. Thanks
 
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:34 PM
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I would recommend lifting the tires and spinning them. If they spin freely without much friction then I'm kind of at a loss. If there is a lot of friction I'd check the pads to make sure your Calipers aren't stuck, then check the bearing. I've never head of bearing smoking unless they are burning up.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by GruesomeJeans View Post
I would recommend lifting the tires and spinning them. If they spin freely without much friction then I'm kind of at a loss. If there is a lot of friction I'd check the pads to make sure your Calipers aren't stuck, then check the bearing. I've never head of bearing smoking unless they are burning up.

Ok thanks.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:06 PM
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Did you seat the bearings in the proper manner? You have to apply 150lb/ft, then loose the nut again and tighten it to 70lb/ft. I think you overdone it, you might want to check the Front End Rebuild thread in my signature, as the numbers might not be 100% right.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:01 PM
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I just did this last week and you're pretty close.
While spinning the tire, tighten the bearing nut to 150 ft/lbs. (That sets the bearing in place) Then, back it off 1/4 turn. Then, again while spinning the tire, retorque to 50 ft/lbs and leave it. Put everything in place and back together.
There should be little to no slop in the wheel, and it should spin with ease. One spin (without the tire on) and mine would do 10 - 15 revolutions on its own before stopping.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:37 PM
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When I did my bearings I found it was extremely hard to try getting it to 150lbs with that darn locknut socket. It slipped once and I fell and hurt myself so I started being more careful. I probably should get those lock rings replaced since they were a bit marred from the PO hitting it with an impact so much.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:27 PM
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Yeah, it was a real pain with that socket but I found that a ratcheting torque wrench made it 100x easier. One of the best tools I've bought.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:57 PM
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Wait what? A ratcheting torque wrench? How did that make it any better? I used both that and a normal wrench and both sucked equally. The Torque Wrench had a longer handle but that also ment I couldn't push inward to keep the socket on the nut.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:14 PM
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It made it easier because I could set the torque to 150 and then I didn't have to look at it to see what torque it was currently at. I could concentrate on keeping the socket on the hub nut. I can't imagine trying to do that AND lean back and try to see if the needle is at 150 ft/lbs.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:26 AM
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Aaaahhh I see. Yeah using a manual torque wrench would have been torture.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:15 PM
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Did the new pads go in really tight? It could be that you started to burn up one of the pads. I had changed my pads nd calipers a few weeks ago and one of them was frozen produced enough heat to smolder the brake fluid soaked caliper.
 
 
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