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I also managed to hook up the battery for a few seconds and my connection at the solenoid to the started started to burn the electrical tape I had placed near the loop????
I was told when my brother had the spark and smoke that started this entire ordeal, the smoke came from the grouping of wires that travel from the solenoid to the alternator.
When I have the starter wire unhooked from the solenoid and connect the battery I have no sparking when I attach the battery cables. When the starter is connected I'm getting a spark when trying to connect.
One possible explanation is that the starter is jammed, and arc-welding the solenoid shut.
Originally Posted by ThrashinDad
I did a continuity check and I believe the solenoid is "open". It is brand new Standard Blue Streak solenoid.
Originally Posted by ThrashinDad
I also bench tested the starter as well and it turns without problems. The starter is brand new as well.
These two results seem to contradict your first result, so I'm missing something, or there's more to the story. If you connect the battery with the starter connected but the 'S' post of the solenoid disconnected, does the starter click and sparks fly (presumably due to the starter trying to engage)?
Originally Posted by ThrashinDad
I also managed to hook up the battery for a few seconds and my connection at the solenoid to the started started to burn the electrical tape I had placed near the loop????
Which connection is smoking? By the way, are you able to turn the engine over by hand (such that the starter could turn it too)?
Originally Posted by ThrashinDad
I was told when my brother had the spark and smoke that started this entire ordeal, the smoke came from the grouping of wires that travel from the solenoid to the alternator.
This sounds like the battery was connected backwards, which will blow the fusible link at the output of the alternator, and possibly blow the rectification diodes in the alternator. This will be a separate issue that you'll have to troubleshoot once you get up and running.
I have bought 3 different brands of solenoids for my 72 and it starts about a dozen times then the solenoid sticks and it keeps cranking pull one off another vehicle (57 f100,55 Fairlane,72 Maverick,)and it works fine>Still trying to figure it out.
Maybe try this. With the ignition key off, pull the wire from the "S" terminal on the solenoid and check it with a circuit tester light. It should be dead with the ignition switch in the off and run position and live in the start position.
If there is power to it then the issue is most likely your ignition switch.
I need to add that you should unhook the starter side terminal of the solenoid before doing this since you need to hook up the battery.
Fmc400, I connected the starter and power to the solenoid and unhooked the "s" post and I had power to the cab, no sparks from the positive battery post when connecting, I turn the key and nothing happens. No starter or solenoid.
Okay, after I did the test with the "s" post I connected power and I didn't get and sparks and now my solenoid clicks and you can hear the starter turn over when i turn the key but it only clicks once and stops(starter and solenoid).
When I tried it again I depressed the clutch and turned the key immediately the solenoid connections started to smoke and get really hot. Power and starter side.
When I tried it again I depressed the clutch and turned the key immediately the solenoid connections started to smoke and get really hot. Power and starter side.
This was with the new solenoid, I changed it to an old one and it went back to clicking the starter and solenoid one time and that's all. I haven't confirmed that the engine will turnover but I'm pretty confident because it was running less than a year ago.
I'm having a little trouble following all of your steps, so I'll clarify what I'm ultimately trying to get at. It sounds like there is a massive current draw downstream of the solenoid. This can be because the starter cable is shorted to ground, the starter is bad, or the starter is working too hard. That's problem #1.
Problem #2 is that it seems like this load is placed on the battery as soon as the battery is hooked up. That's not normal behavior - no matter what is downstream of the solenoid, it should be isolated from the battery if the solenoid is open. However, your description seems to indicate the solenoid is closed under certain unwanted conditions. One possibility is that the solenoid 'S' post is getting power when it shouldn't be (it should only be powered with the key in START). The other possibility is that the solenoid is tack-welded shut, which sometimes can result from problem #1.
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