1956 - Chopped, Sectioned, with a S^3 engine (Supercharged-Straight-Six) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



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1956 - Chopped, Sectioned, with a S^3 engine (Supercharged-Straight-Six)

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Old 08-21-2013, 09:07 PM
clintonvillian clintonvillian is offline
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1956 - Chopped, Sectioned, with a S^3 engine (Supercharged-Straight-Six)

You guys asked for a thread so here it is.

Goal was to build a powerful torque monster with good FUEL mileage that is different from most anything else.......So here is the plan:

8.8 97 Crown Vic Axle
2004 Crown Vic front crossmember/IFS
Partial Box on frame
T5 with ASTRO gear set.
Aluminum Drive Shaft

Supercharged 300, built to come to life around 1200 rpms to 4500. M112 ported and polished blower, larger aftermarket blower at some point. 240 head, 240 rods, 347 forged pistons, larger valves, chevy rockers. Custom headers and intake built to support supercharger. Custom pulley and brackets. Megasquirt EFI......

Body will be chopped and sectioned. I also plan to use a wider bed to help with the proportions....just not a fan of the 3" wider fenders.

As far as paint and details go you'll have to wait....

Any questions?



Here is what it started out like:



Not to bad of a start right? WRONG! I had planned to just rod it. Nothing major. Well the only sheet metal I am using is the roof, pieces of the doors and hood. The rest was nothing but rust. It was literally held together by BONDO AND CHICKEN WIRE, think I even found some window screen. So I picked up another cab with a good lower half and I am putting the two cabs together to make one..... That is the only reason I decided to chop it up. The frame was in good shape. No wrecks, no damage and minimal rust for a WV truck.

CV IFS install I narrowed it 1.5" to snug up to the frame (rack included):




Stance:



Donor:




Axle welded up:



Frame after paint:







And now start of sheet metal:





I'll keep yah posted...........
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:23 PM
Tim's83F100 Tim's83F100 is offline
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Looking good! Nice work.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:33 PM
aussiecowboy aussiecowboy is offline
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Very nice work, good on you for thinking outside the box a bit too.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:41 PM
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bjmayberry2 bjmayberry2 is offline
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Lookin' Good! Where're you getting your patch panels?
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:46 PM
clintonvillian clintonvillian is offline
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Picked them up from Midwest early ford, and Midfifty at the Supernats this spring.

They are all real good stuff, fitment is questionable. I had to remove the hinge bucket from the pillar and reweld it to get it lined up but it is still good quality stuff.
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:19 AM
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pineconeford pineconeford is offline
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Wow! Great work!
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:04 AM
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What's the advantage of the Astro gearset? I've heard the shifter position is further forward.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:22 AM
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Jag Red 54 Jag Red 54 is offline
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Nice! Those 300's are one of my favorite motors. Jag
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintonvillian View Post
Picked them up from Midwest early ford, and Midfifty at the Supernats this spring.

They are all real good stuff, fitment is questionable. I had to remove the hinge bucket from the pillar and reweld it to get it lined up but it is still good quality stuff.
Nice to know. I've gotta do some this winter.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:42 PM
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OK now I think I see where your door alignment problem started. IMHO you should have not welded the new door pillar bottom in place until after adjusting the door fit to flush with the top of the door frame and windshield post (since they cannot be easily moved) by moving the upper hinge outwards and the lower hinge inwards in the door pillar (with the door latch removed) until the door was flush with the frame from the top down to the upper cowl seam (leaving the lower hinge loose). I would have then tack welded a couple/three temporary straps to the inside of the door and the frame above the beltline to hold the alignment. Now the bottom of the door post can be adjusted in or out until the lower cowl skin aligns with the lower portion of the door and then tack the lower pillar reinforcing bracket to the floor. Check the door fit, and finish welding the pillar in place. (all this assumes the door being used has a solid lower frame and skin, otherwise leave the bottom of the door pillar loose until the door has also been repaired).
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:19 PM
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A 300 built like you want it will have all the torque you need - It won't be cheap and it won't like high RPM's
I ran an earlier 300 6 in an Altered - It would stand it on end and would run out of RPM at about a 1000 ft - Had to switch to a GM 6 to get the RPM's - Before I could really get into it NHRA whet to bracket raceing and that wouldn't feed the family
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:53 PM
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Beautiful workmanship, and I cant wait to see more, especially that 300 build.
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4tl8ford View Post
A 300 built like you want it will have all the torque you need - It won't be cheap and it won't like high RPM's
I ran an earlier 300 6 in an Altered - It would stand it on end and would run out of RPM at about a 1000 ft - Had to switch to a GM 6 to get the RPM's - Before I could really get into it NHRA whet to bracket raceing and that wouldn't feed the family
Dick, when did you run the altered? Did you ever come up to the Buffalo area with it? Any pictures?
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
Dick, when did you run the altered? Did you ever come up to the Buffalo area with it? Any pictures?
In 73,74 - I was stationed a WPAFB in Dayton Oh - I only ran it at Kilkare and Riverview near Dayton and Cincinnati - I had help from George Montgomery and Billy Stepp - George built the chassis and Billy found me an Austin Roadster and helped me build the engines - It was a mish-mash of time and money - They were both running the NHRA/AHRA schedules
I had about 30 runs all told before they changed the format and it became impossible for me to basically race for free
I did get a lot of experience at grunt pit crew work with the both of them when I could get to a race.
When I got divorced in 82 I left with my clothes, tools and my hunting/fishing gear - I never saw or found out what happened to the mementos of my former life, as many of us has happened
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintonvillian View Post
You guys asked for a thread so here it is.

Goal was to build a powerful torque monster with good FUEL mileage that is different from most anything else.......So here is the plan:

8.8 97 Crown Vic Axle
2004 Crown Vic front crossmember/IFS
Partial Box on frame
T5 with ASTRO gear set.
Aluminum Drive Shaft

Supercharged 300, built to come to life around 1200 rpms to 4500. M112 ported and polished blower, larger aftermarket blower at some point. 240 head, 240 rods, 347 forged pistons, larger valves, chevy rockers. Custom headers and intake built to support supercharger. Custom pulley and brackets. Megasquirt EFI......

Body will be chopped and sectioned. I also plan to use a wider bed to help with the proportions....just not a fan of the 3" wider fenders.

As far as paint and details go you'll have to wait....

Any questions?

Not to bad of a start right? WRONG! I had planned to just rod it. Nothing major. Well the only sheet metal I am using is the roof, pieces of the doors and hood. The rest was nothing but rust. It was literally held together by BONDO AND CHICKEN WIRE, think I even found some window screen. So I picked up another cab with a good lower half and I am putting the two cabs together to make one..... That is the only reason I decided to chop it up. The frame was in good shape. No wrecks, no damage and minimal rust for a WV truck.





I'll keep yah posted...........

Cool project! It looks like you've got a great start. It also looks like you are doing some nice work.

I'm doing something similar, engine wise, on my 54 F100 project. But I'm using the Shelby Eaton H122 and am going with a blow thru carb set up ( actually 3-2V carbs ) . I'm going a little more on the wild side with my engine build.

I do have a couple questions about your engine plans.

Why are you going with a 240 head? You aren't really gaining anything with it. The 240 head has the same size combustion chamber as your 300 EFI head does. It just doesn't have the fast burn chamber design. Most guys run the 240 head on a carbed 300 to get a .5 bump in the compression ratio. But like I said you don't get that gain when you are starting with the EFI engine. And since you are going to run a supercharger you wouldn't really want the bump in compression anyways. A better choice would be to swap a carbed 300 head on. That will lower your compression which would allow you to safely run a little more boost.


Do the 347 stroker pistons have the correct compression height for the 240 long rod set up? I did a lot of research on the 300 crank/240 rods a few years back. I was going to use that set up but decided against it. I'm not really familiar with the 347 stoker pistons. If they are the correct height it may be something for me to check out for mine.


I can't wait to see more of your build as you get it done!




Quote:
Originally Posted by 4tl8ford View Post
A 300 built like you want it will have all the torque you need - It won't be cheap and it won't like high RPM's
I ran an earlier 300 6 in an Altered - It would stand it on end and would run out of RPM at about a 1000 ft - Had to switch to a GM 6 to get the RPM's - Before I could really get into it NHRA whet to bracket raceing and that wouldn't feed the family


What makes you say it won't like high rpm's? And what do you consider high rpm's? Built right a 300 will easily spin to over 7,000 rpm. On his build the 240 rods will improve the connecting rod ratio and the boost is going to help over come some of the 300 head's lack of breathing. He should have no problems with it pulling strong well above 5500+ rpm's.
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