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1956 - Chopped, Sectioned, with a S^3 engine (Supercharged-Straight-Six)

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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1956 - Chopped, Sectioned, with a S^3 engine (Supercharged-Straight-Six)

  #16  
Old 08-22-2013, 08:30 PM
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The technologie availble at that time was very limited for the Ford six's - People had been trying to build 6 cyl Flathead killers since 1932 there was alot more parts and information about GM, Stude & Hudson 6's. While I had some great help in getting things together money and time limited my acess to to the best stuff
about 20' years ago I started looking a the 300 sixes again for a hot rod what I was seeing and hearing wasn't a whole lot different from what I had expierenced - I am still considering a 6 cyl build someday and I know the torque will be there but RPM's will have to come from gearing - That's my take on a 6 Cyl without throwing money at it.
Oh, I have a fresh rebuilt Flathead 6 sitting on the shop floor that should be going in my 52 F2 - The one that's in there now will go for a rebuild and maybe some tinkering just for S&G's
 
  #17  
Old 08-23-2013, 04:18 AM
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very nice build, I like the 300 ideas.... keep us updated
 
  #18  
Old 08-23-2013, 08:24 PM
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Astro gear set to handle torque. T5s are a little weak stock.

Ax. Door pillar..........it is just tacked for the reason you listed. I have to get the new rocker in b4 i finish welding. I worked everything off of the original hinges. Measured marked and the lined the pillar up and moved the bucket to line it up like factory. Your solution is correct except if the bottom goes in then the back of the door sits way inside the rear cab corner. I guess either way i go i will have do metal work. Either at the pillar or cab corner.

240 head just because it is less prone to cracking. I think the 347 piston have a compression height of 1.09" and use the same pin as the 240 rods requiring no bushings. That lowers the compression some which should help to even out the bump in compression from the head. I had the numbers somewhere.......I'll dig back into them when I get there. I also got a NOS head with the original box and all for steal........so I didn't even question it.

I have an EFI head for sale if anyone is interested.

As far as PSI I think M112 will do fine some of the lightning guys are pushing some pretty impressive numbers using larger pullies and turning them 18-19000 rpms. My plan is to buy an aftermarket that replaces the M112 someday when funds permit.
 
  #19  
Old 08-24-2013, 06:50 PM
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Here was the P/O attempt at a chop.... it has complicated my efforts of getting everything lined up. I'll get it there.....




Checked header clearance, looks like I am gonna have to modify these but they do look WICKED in place.



Removed the left corner and started working on patching it and the door:



 
  #20  
Old 08-24-2013, 06:53 PM
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Any tricks to getting the rubber coating out of these doors???

How much prep work do guys do on rusted areas. For instance the guts of the doors are rusty, do you blast in them? and like the rust behind the door skin edges, just blast what you can get to and leave the rest???
 
  #21  
Old 08-25-2013, 10:15 AM
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We would remove the tar based undercoating on 50's era vehicles we were making into race cars by using dry ice. Apply to the undercoating for a minute or two and scrape off the brittle undercoating with a putty knife. Wash off remnants with mineral spirits. Be sure to protect the area and clean up regularly, the removed undercoating with get sticky and track everywhere once it again warms up.
Again I would remove any loose rust with an abrasive impregnated plastic string wheel, then use aerosol rust converter (made by Rustoleum, available at most big box DIY stores. It is NOT a paint, it is a chemical treatment, follow the directions.) top coat with a good primer and paint. If stored indoors you can leave the exterior in rust converter until ready to paint, it will prevent further rusting.
 
  #22  
Old 08-25-2013, 10:24 AM
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you're right, the PO complicated the chop because he started wrong. As I said before, chopping a wrap around windshield vehicle is a difficult complex task at best and if done incorrectly the windshield will never fit again. There are a lot of windshield-less chopped 56 cabs that come up for sale!
 
  #23  
Old 11-09-2013, 08:23 PM
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Got the aluminum driveshaft in! Still got to TIG it but this is for mock up. I am going to put a hoop around it using the original cross member.


 
  #24  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:06 PM
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Got the Driveshaft hoop fitted up. Still have to cap the top and bottom and repaint it but now I have an idea as to how high my transmission hump will be.

Started with a Lucky Charms box pattern. Broke out the torches cut the patterns out of 10 ga. center is 16 ga. which I will double up and spot weld together.





 
  #25  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:23 PM
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Have you talked 300 six engines with the folks here?: FORDSIX PERFORMANCE • View forum - 240-300 "Big Block" Six Performance
 
  #26  
Old 11-12-2013, 11:21 AM
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I'm all for repurposing cereal boxes and all, but why are "we" installing a hoop? Is it just in case of output shaft or yoke failure, or is there a probability of failure with the Astro T-5/"big-300" combo?

Getting paranoid cuz I don't have a hoop... Brian
 
  #27  
Old 11-12-2013, 11:39 AM
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Subbed....
 
  #28  
Old 11-12-2013, 12:59 PM
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PARANOIA..........LOL

Just figure better safe than sorry right?
 
  #29  
Old 11-12-2013, 08:18 PM
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Going sanctioned drag racing where rules require a hoop? Otherwise not likely to blow a front U joint or pole vault with an aluminum drive shaft.
 
  #30  
Old 11-12-2013, 08:26 PM
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Main reason is that the shaft interfered with the crossmember......and i didnt want to remove it completely.
 

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