Questions: engine removal clearance?
#1
Questions: engine removal clearance?
Hi all,
About to remove the 390 and C-6 from my 1951.
I do have a load-leveling bar for the engine lift.
My plan was to support the trans on a floor jack and remove the rear trans crossmember. Then drop the rear of the trans on the jack and slowly lift the package up and out, adjusting the angle and sliding it outward as I go.
I have a 2 ton redhead engine lift with the red head load-leveler. I have about 11 inches between the crank pulley and the condenser and maybe 9" between the water pump pulley snout and the condenser.
The radiator and all accessories have been removed. A few photos are here. https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A855Z2WMGOKzTn
Do I have enough clearance to remove and:
1. leave the AC condenser in place?
2. leave the transmission attached?
Thank you,
Doug
About to remove the 390 and C-6 from my 1951.
I do have a load-leveling bar for the engine lift.
My plan was to support the trans on a floor jack and remove the rear trans crossmember. Then drop the rear of the trans on the jack and slowly lift the package up and out, adjusting the angle and sliding it outward as I go.
I have a 2 ton redhead engine lift with the red head load-leveler. I have about 11 inches between the crank pulley and the condenser and maybe 9" between the water pump pulley snout and the condenser.
The radiator and all accessories have been removed. A few photos are here. https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A855Z2WMGOKzTn
Do I have enough clearance to remove and:
1. leave the AC condenser in place?
2. leave the transmission attached?
Thank you,
Doug
#2
#3
These are questions that are difficult to answer without having eyes on the scene, having said that, I should think you'd be able to tie the condenser out of the way and remove motor and tranny as a unit. An extra set of hands and eyes with you would be helpful. Good luck.
I know what you mean.
The condenser doesn't gain really any room over the bodywork (where the hood latch is) between the front two fenders. The condenser and trans cooler are mounted behind the "toothy grill" and below the center panel between the two fenders.
If it is necessary to remove the center bodywork to pull the motor, then I have my answer.
Thank you for your consideration!
Doug
#5
I won't be disconnecting the yoke
Doug
#6
#7
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#8
Hi AX and Paul,
first, thanks a bunch for your reply!
I have a essentially a new 2 ton lift made by redhead. Just bought it thru Craigslist for $120 and a load leveler by redhead from Amazon ($21 shipped!). It is a 1 ton rating at full boom extension. I think the 390FE is 625 lbs. I've stripped off all of the ancillary items, including carb, so it might be less. I suspect the C-6 is at most 200 lbs. I feel comfortable extending the boom all the way. I'll see how high it goes.
I also have a two post lift in my garage. pulling the C-6 out the bottom isn't a big deal. Maybe that's the simplest (and safest) way to do it.
Thank you,
Doug
first, thanks a bunch for your reply!
I have a essentially a new 2 ton lift made by redhead. Just bought it thru Craigslist for $120 and a load leveler by redhead from Amazon ($21 shipped!). It is a 1 ton rating at full boom extension. I think the 390FE is 625 lbs. I've stripped off all of the ancillary items, including carb, so it might be less. I suspect the C-6 is at most 200 lbs. I feel comfortable extending the boom all the way. I'll see how high it goes.
I also have a two post lift in my garage. pulling the C-6 out the bottom isn't a big deal. Maybe that's the simplest (and safest) way to do it.
Thank you,
Doug
#9
I just took a look at the lift. At the 1 ton setting and peak height, it is 96" high. But, the chain will take up some of that height and I cannot extend the lift over the engine bay when it is nearly straight up. The engine and trans measure about 50" long, where the engine is 27" high combined. My truck is very low upfront with the Heidt's IFS. But suspect it is still 36" to clear the bodywork from the floor (I have another car parked under the truck on the lift, so I'm guestimating that dimension)
I think with the load leveler it will work, but it might be close.
Am leaning towards separating to be safe.
Appreciate your feedback!
Doug
I think with the load leveler it will work, but it might be close.
Am leaning towards separating to be safe.
Appreciate your feedback!
Doug
#10
#11
I have sold the nice running 390 and C-6, so I don't necessarily need to separate. We will ultimately load the package in to the buyer's pickup truck.
I'm putting an L92 and 6L80e (VVT all Aluminum 6.2L and 6-speed auto) into the truck. I wanted to do a Coyote motor, but they are too expensive for me.
Appreciate the advice.
Doug
#12
Well, I can say it works to remove with both components connected. It was close, but worked. Hardest part is the reach of the boom. The reach reduces when the angle of the boom is anything but horizontal (parallel to the ground). Applied trigonometry
Hardest part was getting the motor mounts off of those welded in to the frame.
Doug
Hardest part was getting the motor mounts off of those welded in to the frame.
Doug
#14
For those curious, photos of the engine / trans and vacant engine room here:
https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A855Z2WMGOKzTn
I will take and add some photos of the lift so everyone knows what works and what doesn't a bit later. I'm thinking of boring another set of holes in the boom between the 1/2 ton and 1 ton holes. Another six inches of boom length would really come in handy.
The new L92 and 6L780e shouldn't weigh over 750 lbs combined.
Doug
https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A855Z2WMGOKzTn
I will take and add some photos of the lift so everyone knows what works and what doesn't a bit later. I'm thinking of boring another set of holes in the boom between the 1/2 ton and 1 ton holes. Another six inches of boom length would really come in handy.
The new L92 and 6L780e shouldn't weigh over 750 lbs combined.
Doug
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