1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

AIR Injection Ports @ Exhaust Manifold

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Old 08-18-2013, 11:24 PM
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AIR Injection Ports @ Exhaust Manifold

I've done my best effort to remove all the emissions garbage on my 460, and also the non-functioning A/C system, if for nothing else than to open up the engine bay and make it easier to work on.

I can not for the life of me, get the plumbing out of the exhaust manifolds, they're rusted solid. I ended up taking a sawzall and cutting them as close as I could get to the manifold. I'm afraid if I end up stripping the nut at the manifold that these things will be permanent and I'll be left with no option but to plug them. If that happens and I have to resort to this, does anyone know what I can use? I suppose a bolt would work, but I would need a seal that would stand up to the heat, as I assume these things will get as hot as the manifolds themselves?

I hope with enough PB Blaster and perseverance I can get them out, but I'm not so sure. Also there's a large diameter pipe coming from what looks like the back of the cylinder head on the driver's side; it used to go to the AIR plumbing (maybe the diverter valve?) and it changed from metal to a rubber hose. It's the metal end that's left and I cannot trace where it goes at the back of the engine. Is this safe to leave, or will it leak vacuum/exhaust?

I think that's the last of my questions for now. I'm anxious to get this beast back on the road and running after a new timing set & carb rebuild!
 
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:32 AM
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You might want to look in this thread. I haven't checked it in a while, but I believe it will answer your question.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-removal.html
 
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:15 PM
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I know what you mean about the air tubes.

I had to remove the complete hardware. Cut the line, used a socket or pipe wrench to take out the adapter that screws into manifold.

I then tapped the holes to a 5/8 thread and installed stainless bolts with lock washers.

You need to have it physically tight, as the heat melts down locktite and rtv type silicone, even the mega copper and will loosen up. I can txt you pics if need be.
 
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:17 PM
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I actually tapped the manifold, I am not sure if that was clear in my post. I used 5/8" 1/2" long stainless, I ordered from McMaster Carr. Couldn't find anything short enough locally.
 
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