Without having to tear the whole instrument panel off can you replace the blend door actuator on a 98 Ranger? I got a new one but just absolutely can't get to the two back screws. Eventhough they're not tight. The front two are no problem. But I didn't even start to take out the front until I was sure I could get to the back two. But it's not possible. I tried all kinds of sockets, tried to make up some socket handles out of a hex key and an 8mm socket but it didn't work, plus it wouldn't have ratcheted. Is it worth tackling? What can I safely remove to get it to without having to pull the whole dash off or discharge the a/c?

 

I have a 98 Ranger XLT. I removed my blend door actuator in order to do the "finish nail" method of repairing a broken blend door. In order to get the screw in the back, I had to weld a short 1/4" drive 8mm socket to a small piece of flat steel (1/8" thick by 1/2" wide and about 6 or so inches long). I got the back screw out by turning it a very little at a time. There was no room for the head of a ratchet and at the time I didn't have a tiny 1/4" breaker bar. I have a 1/4" drive breaker bar now but I think my home made tool would still work better. When I was finished with the "finish nail" repair, I put the actuator back in place with only the front screws. I didn't even bother to put the stubborn screw back in. I have been using it that way since 2004 and it hasn't failed yet. (Note: Doing a Google search on the blend door issue with my truck was how I found this web site)

 

Well I returned the part because I couldn't get it in anyway. But I was told by the mechanic that before they even looked at it that it wasn't the blend door. It's loosing vacuum somewhere. It works in all other positions correctly but Max A/C. It works in Max A/C except when you go up a hill it defaults to the defrost vents. Now does that mean the vacuum hose going to the mode selector switch on the Max A/C circuit has a leak or could it be other hoses?

 

Blend door problems cause temperature-control issues. Vacuum problems cause airflow-direction issues.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. If the airflow defaults to the defrost vents only when in MAX A/C mode, then it could be a leak in that part of the HVAC system that is associated with (1) the recirculation door, and/or (2) the heater control valve, both of which are activated (closed) when MAX A/C is selected.

See diagram HERE.

It's a good idea to pull out the mode selector switch and check the hose connections in back of the switch. Take note of the white vacuum hose, in particular, and where it goes.

You also want to check the gray hose that tees off the white hose and runs out to the heater control valve located in the engine compartment.

 

Yeah I suspect it's going to be in the gray line that goes to the heater control valve. Because that's the one that keeps breaking pieces off everytime you're under the hood to do a tune up on that side of the engine. I tried splicing in the smallest possible rubber vacuum hose and slipping it over the broken plastic hose but maybe it's still loosing air. I was going to try and replace the entire gray hose with a rubber hose but couldn't figure out how to get the gray hose out without cracking open the evaporator case. But I see where it comes in through the dash just can't get to it under the hood where it goes into the case. That's the only hose that broke.

 

I have 1996 E350 ClubWagon. Rear air only blow heat from the bottom vent. Is this a vacuum or blend door issue? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Welcome to FTE. Sounds like an air-flow direction problem/vacuum issue, or maybe some kind of obstruction in the non-performing vent.

You're best bet, though, is to post the question in the 1968-2013 Full Size Vans Forum. I'm sure the guys over there can help you out.