1989 F250 Project
#121
Didn't get much done last weekend as it was spent swapping tires onto DDs.
I did manage to hit up my cab corners with the clean disc and got a good look at what I'm dealing with. My grandfather had done some repair in the corners as I had a layer of bondo to get through first.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
I'll have to get some corners on order.
In other "parts acquiring" news, I managed to trade the 16" 5x5.5 wheels on the new part F-150 for some of the 16" 8x6.5 wheels I was looking for for my truck.
They need polishing so I'm looking up methods right now.
I did manage to hit up my cab corners with the clean disc and got a good look at what I'm dealing with. My grandfather had done some repair in the corners as I had a layer of bondo to get through first.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
I'll have to get some corners on order.
In other "parts acquiring" news, I managed to trade the 16" 5x5.5 wheels on the new part F-150 for some of the 16" 8x6.5 wheels I was looking for for my truck.
They need polishing so I'm looking up methods right now.
#123
I just picked up some aluminum polish and a Mothers Powerball Mini for a drill and tried to polish them up. It didn't work out too well. There's too many rough patches, nicks and dings. I'm going to try the sanding method another day and see if I can get them to look better.
Here's about an hour or so of effort with just the polishing compound and the drill attachment.
The top is uncleaned and the bottom is polished:
and the above here is just soap and water:
Here's about an hour or so of effort with just the polishing compound and the drill attachment.
The top is uncleaned and the bottom is polished:
and the above here is just soap and water:
#124
Clean your powerball, use some 120+ grit sandpaper to smooth out the nicks, sharp edges, etc...(WET SANDING!!!)
And then try a cutting compund like you'd use on car paint.
Then try the Mother's Polish again.
An alternative, is to polish the wheels up, and clean them really well, and clearcoat them.
And then try a cutting compund like you'd use on car paint.
Then try the Mother's Polish again.
An alternative, is to polish the wheels up, and clean them really well, and clearcoat them.
#125
#127
Thanks SideWinder, with the truck out of town at the in-laws working on these kinds of little projects at home makes it seem like I'm actually moving ahead even though the rest of the build seems to be moving at a snails pace.
Too many updates of just parts acquisition and none on the rebuild, gotta change that
Too many updates of just parts acquisition and none on the rebuild, gotta change that
#128
Surprise surprise, more parts acquired
A trade went through last weekend for my rough and non-running '78/79 Bronco. I walked away with a non-running '75 F-150 that I'll be using for another build later and a set of 285/75r16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac with 80% tread left on them. Not a bad deal I'd say.
And last night I picked up a pair of Carr Hoop IIs for $20.
This weekend is shot for working on my truck sadly but I'm hoping to finally get the cab off and start on the frame on the May long.
A trade went through last weekend for my rough and non-running '78/79 Bronco. I walked away with a non-running '75 F-150 that I'll be using for another build later and a set of 285/75r16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac with 80% tread left on them. Not a bad deal I'd say.
And last night I picked up a pair of Carr Hoop IIs for $20.
This weekend is shot for working on my truck sadly but I'm hoping to finally get the cab off and start on the frame on the May long.
#129
Cab corners came in yesterday and I took a run out to the In-Law's place to drop off and set up my new engine stand, welder and do a quick mock up of the corners
Looks like the bulk of the rust will be gone with these corners
Going to have to put a smaller patch in above the patch panel but that shouldn't be too hard.
These panels are slightly wrong as there's an indent behind the cab that isn't on the replacement panel but I can just cut the panel before the indent.
Game plan this long weekend is still to remove the cab, pressure wash the frame, diffs, etc and then start removing everything off the frame. Hoping for the best case and can start prepping the frame for paint.
I'm leaning towards Rustoleum gloss black for a top coat over the Chassis Saver.
Cab will be going up on some saw horses for rough body work, then on it's back for prepping and then Chassis Saver/Rustoleum.
Looks like the bulk of the rust will be gone with these corners
Going to have to put a smaller patch in above the patch panel but that shouldn't be too hard.
These panels are slightly wrong as there's an indent behind the cab that isn't on the replacement panel but I can just cut the panel before the indent.
Game plan this long weekend is still to remove the cab, pressure wash the frame, diffs, etc and then start removing everything off the frame. Hoping for the best case and can start prepping the frame for paint.
I'm leaning towards Rustoleum gloss black for a top coat over the Chassis Saver.
Cab will be going up on some saw horses for rough body work, then on it's back for prepping and then Chassis Saver/Rustoleum.
#130
Day 1 of the long weekend seemed like not much got accomplished but in reality it was a bunch of minor crap that had to be taken care of.
Cleaned up the work area and organized parts before pulling the truck out in preparation of the cab removal.
Managed to bend the rear cross member pulling it out
Hoping it can be hammered back into place. Otherwise I'll be finding one off another truck to put in.
After that I removed the 4 remaining bolts holding the cab on and then spend the rest of my time building sawhorses to put the cab on before heading to a family BBQ.
Tomorrow's goals:
-Lift the cab off and onto the sawhorses
-Pressure wash the frame
-Start removal of everything left on after taking lots of reference pictures/videos
And if I manage to get all that done I want to try to get my 300 on the engine stand and start on final assembly on that. Otherwise I'm aiming for Monday for that
Cleaned up the work area and organized parts before pulling the truck out in preparation of the cab removal.
Managed to bend the rear cross member pulling it out
Hoping it can be hammered back into place. Otherwise I'll be finding one off another truck to put in.
After that I removed the 4 remaining bolts holding the cab on and then spend the rest of my time building sawhorses to put the cab on before heading to a family BBQ.
Tomorrow's goals:
-Lift the cab off and onto the sawhorses
-Pressure wash the frame
-Start removal of everything left on after taking lots of reference pictures/videos
And if I manage to get all that done I want to try to get my 300 on the engine stand and start on final assembly on that. Otherwise I'm aiming for Monday for that
#131
Day 2 went well.
Pulled the cab off finally and got it on the sawhorses with no issues.
It seems a little high but in reality all the sheet metal repair required is on the lower half so I won't have to be leaning over too much
Dragged the frame down to the road
and pressure washed it with a rotating nozzle
then it was back to the pole barn
Got the rear half lifted and on jack stands in preparation for the full floating diff swap from the 6.9 diesel truck.
Noticed a major issue while inspecting today's handy work though.
That's the front bed bolt hole on the driver side. Going to have to weld that up and hope it doesn't crack further
And just before the end of the day I got the engine on the stand and ready to be worked on later
Tomorrow I'll be getting to removing the lines and left over pieces on the frame. It feels good to finally make some progress on the truck and not just buying parts
Pulled the cab off finally and got it on the sawhorses with no issues.
It seems a little high but in reality all the sheet metal repair required is on the lower half so I won't have to be leaning over too much
Dragged the frame down to the road
and pressure washed it with a rotating nozzle
then it was back to the pole barn
Got the rear half lifted and on jack stands in preparation for the full floating diff swap from the 6.9 diesel truck.
Noticed a major issue while inspecting today's handy work though.
That's the front bed bolt hole on the driver side. Going to have to weld that up and hope it doesn't crack further
And just before the end of the day I got the engine on the stand and ready to be worked on later
Tomorrow I'll be getting to removing the lines and left over pieces on the frame. It feels good to finally make some progress on the truck and not just buying parts
#133
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Posts: 10,080
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Well my brother and I added yet another parts truck to our stable of parts trucks
This one started life as a 4x2 '94 F-150 with a 302 then some one converted to 4x4. I got it mainly for the 2 gas tanks as they've been ran and aren't rotted out like the other parts trucks that have been sitting for unknown years. The aluminum headache rack, trailer hitch, "go fast" parts on the 302 (shorty headers, MSD coil and throttle body spacer) and Magnaflow exhaust tips were just bonus
[URL="http://s1324.photobucket.com/user/s-parent/media/IMG_1058_zps3e737d5e.jpg.html"][IMG]
This one started life as a 4x2 '94 F-150 with a 302 then some one converted to 4x4. I got it mainly for the 2 gas tanks as they've been ran and aren't rotted out like the other parts trucks that have been sitting for unknown years. The aluminum headache rack, trailer hitch, "go fast" parts on the 302 (shorty headers, MSD coil and throttle body spacer) and Magnaflow exhaust tips were just bonus
[URL="http://s1324.photobucket.com/user/s-parent/media/IMG_1058_zps3e737d5e.jpg.html"][IMG]
Anyways looks like you are doing a great job on the truck and I am subscribing to see how this comes out. It is sad to see so much rust makes me happy I live in AZ.
Trav
#134
I don't know if anybody told you this or not but the 94 gas tanks are different then your 89 gas tanks. I am pretty sure of this as I grabbed 91 fuel tanks and tried putting 88 fuel pump in the rear and it didn't work. The front did but not the rear.
Anyways looks like you are doing a great job on the truck and I am subscribing to see how this comes out. It is sad to see so much rust makes me happy I live in AZ.
Trav
Anyways looks like you are doing a great job on the truck and I am subscribing to see how this comes out. It is sad to see so much rust makes me happy I live in AZ.
Trav
I may end up not using that side tank from the '94 anyways as my brother has an almost brand new side tank from a donor F-350 frame he bought for his Dana 60 swap. Was probably going to use that as he already has a plastic side tank for his build.
As for today's progress, it wasn't as much as I would've liked as I only got 3-4 hours to work on the truck because of another BBQ. With good weather comes many distractions to keep me from working on my truck
As many know, rusty fasteners can slow you down a ton and that's what I was dealing with today.
Got the exhaust system unbolted (or ground off in some cases) and ready to be removed.
Took a TON of pictures showing where the plastic clips that hold fuel, power, etc lines go and then removed all the clips. Managed to only wreck 2 or 3 tops. Luckily I have many extras from the donor trucks
Pulled apart the metal return line on the passenger side apart and pulled out the wiring harness on the driver side. Just break lines and the fuel lines up at the front by the fuel tank selector valve on up left.
Next weekend is shot because of a road trip but the following week/weekend it's game on
#135
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Thanks Bob. I'm less worried about the crack now that I looked into fixing it. I plan on fixing it exactly how you described
I noticed the connectors for the sending units are different but the '89's wiring harness has a connector for the sending unit's plug wire to connect to the harness further up the line. I should be able to swap them and have it work, no?
I may end up not using that side tank from the '94 anyways as my brother has an almost brand new side tank from a donor F-350 frame he bought for his Dana 60 swap. Was probably going to use that as he already has a plastic side tank for his build.
I noticed the connectors for the sending units are different but the '89's wiring harness has a connector for the sending unit's plug wire to connect to the harness further up the line. I should be able to swap them and have it work, no?
I may end up not using that side tank from the '94 anyways as my brother has an almost brand new side tank from a donor F-350 frame he bought for his Dana 60 swap. Was probably going to use that as he already has a plastic side tank for his build.
for you I think you have to use 87(Not for sure on 87s) to 89 as in 90 they went to that style and some 86s may work (not sure again) but not all as some are carbed I believe and they have the small fuel pump.
Nice progress though. Sorry to let you know this just would hate to see you go through that trouble and not have it work.
Trav