1989 F250 Project - Page 5 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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1989 F250 Project

 
  #61  
Old 10-17-2013, 05:00 AM
bdelmar2
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I think the intake will be fine, and you can't beat free.

I noticed your exhaust studs look original, napa has new replacement ones for a reasonable price. Yours don't look bad from what I can see, but they are getting on in years.

Another thing you might want to consider since you have a bit of time is the powersteering pump.

If you can find a van with the 4.9 they have the GM Saginaw pump. Its a much better pump. The stock ford pump is ok, but they tend to be a bit noisy.

I was going to do this swap, but never got around to it being a little pressed for time when I had the engine out, I was hoping the pump I had would last until I got around to getting the parts to swap it.

Naturally my pump started leaking like mad about 3 weeks ago, so I took the easy route and got a rebuilt ford pump from napa. Extremely noisy. And it got worse as time went by.

Napa suggested the lucas powersteering stuff and said they would provided it for free if I wanted to try it, so I did. It helped a little, but not much. Still makes some noise all the time and sounds like a loose belt when you try to turn, very loud.

Kind of annoying in a parking lot, especially since parking lots are smaller these days and getting a full size truck in them requires sharp extended turns. Wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't a new pump, new belt, new tensioner, hoses, etc....

The old pump was quieter before the seals went, but I had some friction modifier in it.

So, I'll be returning this pump and getting another one, will flush the system again, and if it still squeals like mad I'll try some friction modifier.

If that doesn't work then its back to the upullit for the bracket and pulley off a van so I can put a new Saginaw on. I wish they still made the Saginaw pump that bolts on the truck bracket and has the turned down shaft to fit the truck pulley.

If I had it to do over I would find the time to make the swap. After you get the bracket and pulley I think all you have to do is switch the fitting from the old pump to the new one, and bend the pressure line a little bit. No biggy since the pressure line needs some adjustment anyway, it rubs against the air intake and wears a hole in it and the hose.


I did do the alternator swap - before I pulled the engine actually, and I'm happy with that. I got the alternator from a local shop, the one for a '95 Taurus with the 3.8 bolted directly in with no modification, just used the other bolt hole in the bracket, and the wiring was very easy.

Its a 135 amp alternator instead of the stock 65 amp and my headlight and dash lights are strong and steady now instead of being dim and having the annoying flickering. Plus the the truck is less likely to start on fire.

Since I don't have the air pump anymore, the belt wraps the alt pulley nicely and no slippage problems. I had to put a piece of string around everything and had a friend pull the tensioner where it belonged, then I measured the string to determine belt size. That worked fine and I got the right belt the first try.

Unfortunately if I end up switching to the Saginaw pump I will have to get another new belt since the pulley is a different diameter as well - or so I have been lead to believe, I haven't actually compared them. Really wish I'd just done that swap in the first place.

Some more stuff for you to think about anyway, lol.

Oh, there is also a tsb about the cruise control switch on the brake master cylinder sometimes starting on fire. I don't recall exactly, but I think the fix is to replace the switch and the wiring to it. If this has been done there should be a blue tag on the wires. I generally only drive in town, so I just disconnected mine.

I really think the possible alternator fire, and possible cruise switch fire information should be a sticky in capitol letters right at the top of this forum. Kinda seems like information anybody with one of these trucks would want to be aware of. Anything involving the potential for death really.
 
  #62  
Old 10-17-2013, 10:08 PM
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Great info bdelmar, I've had the alt and brackets on my auto wrecker list already but I'll add the Saginaw power steering pump to my list
I already plan on addressing some of the wiring later on. My brother did the headlight relay mod on his '88 and I'm planning on doing the same to mine.

I had a pricy screw up today. I was cleaning my upper intake manifold and while I was using compressed air to dry it off, as I normally do after steaming anything, I put the nozzle onto the EGR valve's vacuum signal port (I think that's what they call it) and the diaphragm exploded.
The orange showing through the slot:


I got one on order at ~$150. I guess some might use this as a reason to pull all the smog crap but I'm not into that potential headache. Plus the cost is offset by the fact it's probably better to have an all new EGR valve controlling things then I not so cleaned one. After I pulled the old one off it was still pretty dirty in there and it lead to another headache.
I'm sure you all know what happens when steel and aluminum sit together for some time...



The one bolt came out no problem but the other snapped half way out. So I get the drill that out and tap it tomorrow
 
  #63  
Old 10-18-2013, 05:54 AM
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Whoops! oh well, better to have it give up now rather than in the truck later.

Don't forget the pulley from the van ps pump, its different than the one from the trucks, mounting hole is larger to fit the Saginaw pump shaft. Although I imagine you have the capability to redrill the pulley you have.

I've read about several people having to restrict the egr to get rid of some surging and bucking issues. Once again in most cases we don't really know the circumstances involved, but with a machine shop at your disposal you could whip out a restrictor plate in about 5 minutes and have it handy if you need it, cheap insurance.

Oh, do you have the larger radiator? I'm not sure how it worked out from ford, but I think the f150's with the 4.9 got the smaller rad, and the 250 got the larger one. In any case, I was wondering if you have the shroud. The one for the larger radiator can be a pain to find, so if you don't have one already you might want to add it to your list.

I would like to do the headlight relay mod myself one day, but right now I'm working on my car a bit so I can drive it while I do the body work on the truck and the car is eating whatever money and time I manage to come up with.
 
  #64  
Old 10-20-2013, 02:34 AM
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Drilled out most of the broken bolt from the EGR valve on my upper intake on Friday. Still need to tap it for and install the helicoil and install the new EGR valve.
The new valve is slightly different but I'm thinking it'll still work fine. The "chamber" is shorter but there's a "spacer" where the sensor bolts to. There shouldn't be any difference to how deep the sensor sits inside it.



I was at the In-Law's today and double checked my rad. I'm 99% sure it's the larger size rad as the other '88-89 light duty F250 truck in yard has a 302 in it with what looks like a 1/4" thick rad in it. Mine is easily 5/8" or 3/4" thick.




I realize now that the last 2 pictures didn't get that great of shot of the shroud but was that the one you meant bdelmar?

I also got my eyes opened to the fact that I will have to reusing this rad as it's the only one I have that the inlet is on the driver's side and the outlet is on the passenger side. All the other ones are inlet on pass/outlet on driver's. The inlet probably doesn't matter much but the outlet would probably be a fun mess to plumb if I did change to a different rad.
Anyways, that leads to another question. How much interchangeability is there between the different rad supports?
I had planned to use the black ext. cab's 460 rad support. Would the 300's rad bolt to that support?
 
  #65  
Old 10-20-2013, 06:16 AM
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Awesome build, makes me wish I still had my 84, 4.9s are sweet
 
  #66  
Old 10-20-2013, 06:55 AM
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It's not uncommon for replacement parts to look different from originals. They usually work, but there are some exceptions.

One exception is the slave cylinder connector - where the line from the master pushes in. The 'New' style does not work at all. It has a 1/4" clip that pushes in from the side, which is useless. If you end up with that type you will want to switch the 'finger' type connector from your old slave cylinder. I just tapped the roll pin at the base out and switched that assembly. Sadly I had to pull the trans again to do it.

I don't have a photo of my radiator, but here is one from Autozone.

Spectra Premium/Radiator (B1454) | 1988 Ford F250 3/4 ton P/U 2WD 6 Cylinders Y 4.9L FI | AutoZone.com

It is about 2" thick, just a little over according to the specs they list.

The shroud I have covers the whole radiator and is made of fairly thick fiberglass, or what looks like fiberglass anyway, its not the plastic like I usually see.

Not exactly like this one, the holes for bolts are at the top, but the photo gives the general idea:

https://www.google.com/search?q=ford...bd%3B500%3B413

Post showing different radiators and shrouds:

Radiator Upgrade and Fan Shrouds - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

I'm not positive about the mountings, but I think they are all the same except for the diesel, at least the core supports are I believe.
 
  #67  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:25 PM
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Thanks for the links bdelmar and the info. It's good to know.
I didn't get any pictures of the progress the last couple days but I got the upper intake finished off. I helicoiled the hole the broken bolt was in, finished cleaning it and slapped a coat of aluminum paint on it. It looks as good as the lower
I rebuilt my injectors today. Just new o-rings, washers and "top hat" tip caps. I didn't notice them before but almost all the old caps had cracks in them. Not sure if that would effect their function but it makes me glad I went new.

Otherwise I took a break on the '89 and focused a little on my '79. I've been in the process of rebuilding a Holley 4160 for it for awhile now as I still haven't fired it up since getting it last summer.
I got the carb given to me in pretty rough shape and spent a long time cleaning, ordering and waiting on parts and just generally learning about carbs until I got burnt out on them. Then my grandfather gave me his truck and the ball started rolling on this build.
Since it was slow today I brought it into the shop and fixed the last few issues with it and did final assembly. I would like to try to get the final set up done Sunday and maybe fire it up and drive it with the 302 in it before tearing into that after the '89 is finished
And just cause everyone loves old Ford truck ****, my '79 in it's rough glory:
 
  #68  
Old 11-05-2013, 09:50 PM
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No new progress on the truck but I did call about a '93 getting parted out in town. Going to check it out for the front clip this weekend and see how rusty it is. According to the seller it's "got some but it's not bad". So hopefully it will be light on the body work required. The guy is letting the clip go for $175 without rad but I might be able to talk him down.
As far as I know I'll need the cowl, fenders, hood, rad support, grille, headlight assembly and the headlight wiring harness for the swap. Is there anything else I need to grab off the parts truck?
 
  #69  
Old 11-05-2013, 10:17 PM
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grab one of those full-float sterling rear ends from the donor trucks. it will make a good addition to the truck.
 
  #70  
Old 11-09-2013, 09:24 PM
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That's definitely on the list eakermeld. The Sterling out of the '87 2-tone is ear marked for that swap

Today my brother and I went and looked at that front clip. It was a little rougher then I would've liked but I talked the guy down to $100 for basically everything forward of the windshield. I figured it was a good base to start with and the price wasn't too bad.
I got the wiper cowl, hood, fenders, rad support, headlights, complete wiring harness from the firewall driver's side to where it ends on the passenger side by the heater box, a black grille and a few other little things.
Unfortunately the guy broke the grille reinforcement panel pushing the truck into it's spot. I'll have to find a new one of those. Here's some pictures of the damage:




I'm hoping I can straighten the stone deflector and not have to replace that.
I'm going to have to keep an eye out for a rad support though. I didn't get any pictures of it but the one support side is completely rusted out. I could repair it if I really have to but it's pretty far gone.
I will have to look at repairing the fenders a bit or finding new ones. Maybe cut the red truck's fenders up to fix these ones.
Here's the rough on them:





I have all winter to hopefully acquire some better pieces or plan how to fix them. I got feelers out for more people parting out trucks, so hopefully something turns up.

 
  #71  
Old 11-12-2013, 09:04 PM
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Took a couple pictures of the rad support when I was out at the In-Law's yesterday, just so you all could see what I'm working with.






Overall it's not that rough just the mounting location and beside them. I was pondering trying to repair it, unless I come across a good one for a good price.

I was looking at my LMC catalog and they list the gas rad's opening as 29 1/8" wide x 18 1/4" tall and the diesel one as 37 1/2" wide x 18 1/4" tall.
I got a line on someone selling one out of a truck with a 460. Would that one still be the gas one or would they have stepped up to the diesel one for the big block?
 
  #72  
Old 11-13-2013, 04:25 PM
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Have you tried looking on car-part.com?

They seem to run from $75 to $125 used. Some less, some more but mostly around there.

Don't know if there are any in your area, but worth a look.

I believe only the diesel has a different core support, but I don't know that for a fact.
 
  #73  
Old 11-13-2013, 07:52 PM
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I have checked that site. They list the 2 wreckers around here and that's about it. Everything else on that site is at least 4+ hour drive.
Hopefully all the gasser rad supports are they same, it would make it easy to find a replacement.
 
  #74  
Old 11-25-2013, 12:16 AM
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So I picked up some captain chairs and center console this Saturday for my truck.
I didn't know before hand what they were out of but it turns out they're from a Bronco. I knew that they would take some fabricating to get them to fit in the regular cab but I didn't know to what extent.
It's hard to see but here's a shot of the angle of the floor

Here's a pic showing the extreme angle on the front bracket on the Bronco mounting track


Measuring the original mounting location shows they're roughly 15 3/4 - 16"

While the spacing on the Bronco brackets it roughly 12"


Here's how they sit with the rear bracket in the rear bolt from the original bench seat


I took a shot with the seats roughly in two different mounting locations. The passenger side has the rear mounting hole on the rear bolt from the original seat. While the driver seat is placed so the extreme angled front bracket is on the angle part of the floor pan. It's hard to see but the passenger side it up higher and angled pretty hard.


Unfortunately I won't be able to get to how to remedy this issue until spring time
But I'm almost wondering if I can take the sliding tracks off the 2 bench seats I have and swap them in place of the Bronco ones


Otherwise I guess I'll have to shell out $180 for the Lightning mount brackets which I'd like to avoid.
 
  #75  
Old 11-25-2013, 08:30 AM
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Look for the seat pan out of a crewcab, works fine.

Uses the 4 factory bolts, and no drilling/cutting. Just need to find a set of seats or a seat pan and swap your seats onto.it.
 

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