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Truck won't start, then it does.

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  #1  
Old 08-14-2013, 03:27 PM
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Truck won't start, then it does.

<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td valign="top"> Having a problem with starting the truck after stopping like when going into the super market. Seems worse when the weather is hot. Always starts when cold without a problem. Truck runs great and accelerates normally. It seems like it is flooded. If I wait 20-30 minutes it starts ok. If I turn the key on and hold the gas pedal down for 2 to 3 minutes (sometimes longer) it will start. I have removed the injectors and soaked them in injector cleaner over night and replaced the o-rings and caps thinking I may have a leaky injector, but it has not helped.

So far it is only a problem if I have to stop somewhere on my way home from work. It always starts in the morning and after work in the afternoon. I drove for 15 minutes in the morning and parked it while at a doctor appointment. 20 minutes later it would not start until I kept the gas pedal down for 2 minutes. I drove about a block to another appointment. I came out 10 minutes later and it would not start. It took several minutes of keeping the gas pedal floored before it finally started. I am stumped at this point. Do I replace the injectors? I have checked for fuel at the fuel rail port and it always has pressure. Never found any gas smell or fuel spill.

I have replaced the coil and cap and rotor thinking it might be electrical but that did not change anything. Checked for any stored codes in the ECM but none to be found.
1994 F150 5.0 V8 Auto 158000 miles

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  #2  
Old 08-14-2013, 05:32 PM
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Update

I checked the fuel pressure today with the engine cold.
Key on Engine off 23 psi
engine at idle 33 psi
engine revved 41 psi
engine off, after 10 min 31 psi
after 40 min 27 psi

Started engine again and switched fuel tanks, still 33 psi at idle.

I am going to check it again when it won't start to see if maybe the pressure regulator is the problem.
 
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:52 PM
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Have you checked the alternator output and the condition of the battery? Using a multimeter, take a DC voltage reading at the battery with the engine running. You should at least 14 volts coming out of the alternator.

If that reading is good, remove the battery and have it tested.

Even if the battery is reasonably new, that doesn't rule out the possibility that it's bad. I think it's unlikely that the fuel injectors are part of the problem.
 
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:25 PM
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Alternator was replaced last year. The truck cranks great with the battery, just won't start sometimes. If the alternator was not charging the battery would run down while driving. The voltage on the volt meter in the dash shows it is ok. Once the truck starts it runs great with no issues.
 
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:36 PM
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The Key On, Engine Off test concerns me...23 is low.. What is the leak down rate with that test? I was thinking FPR.. but.then again, there could be a leaky injector(s). The FPR I suspect since mine wouldn't hold pressure once shut off.

Holding the gas pedal down actually kills the injectors from firing so that in its self sounds like a big clue here.
Edit: ECM kills signal to injectors, preventing them from pulsing, when TPS shows beyond WOT with KEY On, Engine Off, usually gas pedal completely depressed.

Just throwing some ideas out there.
 
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:53 PM
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Yes, I thought the key on engine off pressure to be a little low but does not stop it from starting. I checked the pressure again after 2 1/2 hours and it was 20 psi. Seems to leak down slowly as it should. Before I turned the key on the first time the pressure was 0 after setting for a couple of days.

I am going to drive it and park it for 30 minutes to see if it will repeat the no start condition. Seems like when I want it to act up for a test it won't.
 
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:12 PM
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Yes, I would suspect the FPR. I suggest replacing it, some may not. Could either be FPR or leaking injectors.
 
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:17 PM
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In my experience, a leaking FPR manifests itself in the exact situation you have. Sitting for long periods of time the excess fuel evaporates or drains off, while after a hot shutdown residual fuel pressure forces raw fuel into the intake. The big clue is that you need to hold the throttle open (clear-flood mode) in order to get the truck to start. It's a simple thing to check- after shutting the truck off, pull the vacuum hose off the FPR. If fuel comes out of the FPR, you've found the problem.
 
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:09 PM
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I had a problem last year where mine wouldn't start after driving. Usually 20 minutes later it would start. Always started when cold. I suspected fuel issues at first, but it turned out to be the pickup in the distributor. New distributor and I was back in business.
 

Last edited by OldGrayFord; 09-09-2013 at 06:17 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:47 AM
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Thank you for the info. I will check the FPR first. If that is not the source then I will check the PIP sensor for the dist.
 
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:15 PM
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Changed the FPR since it was below normal with the key on engine off. Now pressure is 31 lbs with key on engine off and 32 lbs at idle. 42 lbs when revved. Took it out for a test run and still have the problem. Stopped for about 25 min and then tried starting. It cranked faster than normal and tried to start once. Then I was able to get it started by pumping the gas pedal a few times with the key off. Then it started normally with out depressing the gas pedal. I am beginning to think it could be a sensor but I was not getting any codes. Today I checked for codes again and I got 211 for the PIP circuit failure.
 
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:24 PM
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Found a link to a good test procedure for the ignition system Part 2 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Distributor Mounted Module (ICM).
 
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:32 PM
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Mine is doing the same exact thing. Easiest way for me to start it if it's hot is by pulling the fuel pump relay. I'm going to watch your thread too, it's killing me and I can't figure it out.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...much-fuel.html
 
  #14  
Old 09-09-2013, 09:19 AM
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When you say you got no codes do you mean you got the all clear codes 11 or 111 from both banks or that you got no response from the computer at all?
 
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Old 09-09-2013, 05:28 PM
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I was getting the 111 code. Just no codes for any sensors. Then the last time I checked I finally got a code for the PIP sensor.
 


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