Hi Everyone, this is my first Ford Truck from my Grand Dad and I want to get it back to the day he drove it off the showroom floor. Okay yes Im a girl so I want alot but I am not afraid of getting my hands dirty and I did today after reading this forum all night.

Okay first off I went and bought a BWD shifter switch and tried putting the new connector on by removing the pins with a screwdriver!! Are you serious ? Got frustrated so I took a dremel to it and wah lah new connector installed. Now I read about adjusting the switch by aligning the marks. Then I read about ohming out the switch by backprobing the lt. blue yellow and grey red pins. When I check each gear my readings are way way off P=.826 k ohms R=.605k ohms N=.431k ohms D=290.6 ohm 2=176.9 ohms 1=81.6 ohms. See not even close !! Now if I unplug the harness and test it, it is right on the money. Also with the harness plugged in and checking voltage for each gear it is perfecto also.

While someone throws me a life jacket I am going out to attempt the pulling of the codes I read about and will report my findings.

Thanks in advance everyone. Thanks for the Awesome Welcomes some of you are on your way to some awesome cookies or a 12 pack. But let me tell you unless you already have a 12 pack in you, the two of them dont go good together blah

 

Welcome to FTE

Could you help us help you, by giving us:

Year
Make
Model
Engine
Transmission
4x4/4x2

Just to help us give you the correct path to troubleshoot, etc.

 

If by any chance you have no idea you can post a picture of the engine bay and a picture of the cabin (taken from the passenger's side)... Well, that or a pic the door tag should suffice if the trucks has been kept stock.

 

Sorry Sorry I left that out it is a Big Red truck <---Tee Hee I crack myself up sometimes okay serious it is a 1993 F150 xlt with 108,000 miles on it. It has the PRND21 with the O/D button on the selector handle. From what I have read it is a E40D Is that right or is it E4 oh D. It is stock except for different tires and rims. Im heading out to check for codes using the method of the blinking engine light and I will post my findings. Oh hi Encho and SideWinder, thanks for setting me straight. Well forward never straight. Well I am straight but OMG nevrmind.
ITS A 4X4 how embarassing

 

Geeeesh Im sorry the dumb blonde is coming out because Im a little nervous and dont want to play the girl card because I want to do this for my Grand Dad. The motor is a 5.0 liter 302 right? okay off to try I mean DO the code retrieving. Thanks again

 

It's me again Okay I got the codes after a couple of tries, do to the fact that I lost track of the flashes because the door dinger was on a different beat....I got that initial quick blurt of flashes and a bunch of clicking and buzzing. then I got 6 flashes 2 flashes and then 9 flashes. that nappened twice then 1 flash pause 1 flash 1 flash then nothing. so I believe I have a 629 and a 111. Okay I saw something about a 629 in the form so Im off to read. whats the 111? nevermind I will try and find it but I might need some explaining

<====LOOK My Grammy is so cute

 

here look up not over that way <===

 

While I'll give you plenty of credit for at least being able to pull the codes yourself (And being a girl at that..)

What exactly IS your issue? The transmission banging into D or R? Or?

Another member, knotEdog has been having the same issue/same code pop up on his truck also. Here's a link to his thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ode-629-a.html

Maybe some reading there will help you in some form or fashion.

If I remember correctly, his issue was identical, as the gear selector wasn't "Doing its' job" or something to that effect.

 

Thanks for the kudos sidewinder. Did I mention that I am a range tech for a live fire range here in ca. and also I do some UXO remediation in Hi. So I can follow instructions very well. Initial Defeat or Total Failure. I read through Knotedogs skip around threads and I pray to the Ford God that my truck doesnt have the same problem. My selector works fine. I dont really know that the same issues they are having pertain to me. I have only started the truck 3 times and havent even driven it. My Grammy told me that Pappy told her that it was acting funny the last time he drove it which was about 4 weeks ago just before he went in for surgery. I wont be able to ask him for a few more weeks what acting funny is. Im posting my findings in the hopes you strong smart men could belp lil ole me.....hehe ouch I broke a nail yeah on a beer tab. I read on another site that the computer for my year truck can become faulty and store bogus codes.
Hey sidewinder what is your take on the 629? and did I test the Selector Switch right because I had different readings,


This is part of the article :

ECM failures -- Fact or fiction:
The fact is, the models of ECMs and TCUs manufactured within the years of 1985-1999 utilize certain electrolytic capacitors that after a certain number of hours or mileage, begin a systematic breakdown. These capacitors eventually break their seal and leak the electrolyte which is a corrosive substance. This corrosive substance actually destroys the area of the mother board computer chip and any adjacent components will be adversely affected. So the longer one waits to repair the unit, the lesser a chance there is of reparability. Most units are repairable unless there is damage to a part that is not made available to us. Presently, their are specific components that are damaged occasionally that we can not purchase. We are the first company to specialize in this field and we have the best technicians in the business. The hardest component to acquire is the processor chips. The processor chips are imbedded chips or IC chips that contain vital information which is copy written and is likely not to be able to access. In most cases when the IC chip or chips are damaged, they will experience a heat to the imbedded chip which will damage the chip and often a heated IC will have a variance on the smooth surface of the chip from the heat. The variance may be in the form of a bubble or rise or in some cases a hole or crack is blown though. In these cases, we will likely recommend to replace the ECM. When this occurs, you will be informed of the change in the price quote and upon permission, we will attempt to acquire a replacment ECM for the additional cost. The warranty will not be affected.

 

RLA and Subford are your electrical "Go-to" guys on here.

I cannot personally comment on the 629 code with experience.

I can however say, that I just literally replaced the PCM in my truck a week ago due to all 3 capacitors in it being blown/bad. $125 fix and about 1 hr of time. I came to that resolution after testing everything out and literally not being able to read the codes...

Perform the test, the truck would idle up as normal, relays would kick...But no codes.

Still am not able to retrieve them, but I'm suspecting a faulty wire now; Not I still had a bad PCM. Another telling tale of it being bad was the over fueling/rich condition. It'd literally blow black smoke out the tailpipe at idle and was getting about 8 mpg.

 

Does anyone have or know of the flow chart for the workings of the Programmable Control Module ? Its probably some secret society that has it. I was wondering if it is possible to rip into the thing myself since the members helping that knotedog poster are have fun already I thought I would try a different angle. I tried also to clear that 629 but it just comes back the next time I got the codes. Not a good thing from what I have read but Im not through reading yet. Filter and new fluid and some type of filter clip?? Oh transmission cooler pro and cons >>??? And for those of you whom are going to say something like If it aint broke why fix it? I'm taking this truck with me on a trip to the South America on a drive about until my Grammy and Pappy want to come back home. They have the strangest bucket list

 

Augh !!! One more thing. Now that I replaced the MPLS right? Is there some type of relearning sequence that I need to perform? I remember my 914 once you disconnected the ECU you had to full throttle turn the key on off on off on and push the trip meter reset or it would run like pooh. I seem to remember that I had to hold my tongue out the right side of my mouth. I need a better avatar. Thanks for your fast responses sidewinder well you know they say you cant outrun a sidewinder

 

Regarding the E4OD and a cooler...

DO IT. Get a good one (And a proportionally sized one) and install it. And while you're at it, get a transmission temp gauge.

The temp gauge probe can be installed in the test port. No need to drill holes, etc when one's already provided.

Use the search function for "How to's" on the procedure.

Heat will KILL an automatic transmission, and the E4OD's are known to overheat fairly easily without a cooler.

I'm not saying it'll do it under normal driving, but cooler fluid = Happier fluid. And the gauge will let you keep an eye on the transmission anyways.

Sorry I can't be of much more help.

 

Thank you for all the insight all ready sidewinder. I will check for right ups on the best type for my truck and either pick one up tomorrow when I get filter and fluid. OMG 300 am Are you Serious......I have to go to bed I have to be in Studio City at 800 am. Grammy and I are going to be in the audience for Let's Make A Deal...I hope they pick my Grammy she is going as Mother Theresa and Im going as a sexy hard body naughty nurse.......HAHAHAHAHAHA yeah right hehehe Im going as a you guessed it an Explosive Ordnance Disposal Tech that made a mistake. Thanks for all the input so far everyone. TTYL after LMAD taping.

 

My Grand Dad handsome fellow