I've cross referenced National Wheel and Rim Association (NWRA) numbers as follows. A January, 1970, NWRA catalog shows all 600 series Fords from 1964 to 1970 used either 22.5 x 6.00" wheels having NWRA code X-48210 or 22.5 x 6.75" having code X-48220. I'm obviously leaving out mention of 20" or 19.5" wheels since they aren't relevant here. Flipping forward past your donor truck's production year, a July, '85, NWRA catalog shows those same cross reference numbers applied to 600 series Fords through the 1983 model year. These would all be stud piloted (dual cap nut on the rear), 6 x 8.75" pattern, with a 6.5" center hole.

The only variance in this picture is the earlier 1963/64 use of hub piloted wheels on 600 series trucks. These had a 6.25" center hole.

So according to the references you are good to go pulling wheels from a 1981 donor. I'm unclear, though, what you mean by the statement about smaller holes on the rear. Could you please clarify? If you want to post either the Accuride or Budd part numbers off the donor wheels I should be able to look them up to provide even more assurance that they are correct for your truck. If they are K-H, however, you won't find part numbers. Stu

 

Stu...wonderful work and thank you very much for helping out. It's difficult to learn all of the things I need to know and do it in a hurry.
By smaller diameter, the seller mentioned that and I don't recall exactly but I thought the rear axle had a smaller diameter stud on it with the "stud and nut" (dual cap nut) combination and I know those are the wrong words.

I'm headed there early in the morning to see what the story is but the two steering tires are newer (old stock) and good tires with mild cracking while the rears apparently have more cracking but on nice wheels.

Not sure what to expect so the plan is to go and look. He's highly motivated and the price is low to begin with. Part of my comparison is with the 8.25-20'a I already have. The wheels are bad but four tires are excellent so I'm going to compare costs of used military wheels and go with the cheaper way unless there is some overwhelming advantage to the 22.5's and tubeless. This truck won't get 500 miles a year on it.

Thank you for your effort and advice.

 

The wheel studs are the same front and rear, 3/4" x 16 tpi. On the rear the DCN threads onto the stud to hold the inner dual, then the outer nut threads onto the DCN to hold the outer dual. IMHO, you'll be happier longer going with tubeless. Find a shop that works on school buses to get some recently replaced 9R22.5s that don't have the cracking. Stu

 

Stu and others---thanks for the advice. With that in mind I went to look at those 22.5's that were on a 1981 F600 and bought them. As always is, they were not original wheels but ones that are the same size. The fronts are Accuride and have the numbers 4610 and 281 57 8 and 021 798 31 on them. They are in great, nearly rust-free shape and have two nice Firestone 9R-22.5's on them. Those were $75 each.

The rears have weather checked tires on them so I gave $25 each for the four wheels and tire combinations. Two wheels are marked Budd with one a "73" and one a "79". The other two look the same but I didn't readily see a number. All appear to be 8" wheels and I figure the price was cheap enough that even if I'm wrong it will work out OK. I'm going to mount these on the truck before the frame split to see how everything fits but I don't see any problems once I replace the drive tires.

The seller also had some new 9R--22.5 recap drive tires that had been sitting outside for a while and have a degree of weather checking. I didn't buy those because I wasn't sure if I should or how to assess a value. I'm sure they would be cheap and I can always go back. Any thoughts on this?

I'll post photos of the tires and wheels if anyone wants but it's difficult with the photo rules. Do I get to post photos the normal way after enough posts?

My plan now is to see if I can find some school busses that ran 9R--22.5's and see what I can find. It really won't be driven much until next year so I have a while to figure things out. Thanks for steering me to the 22.5 tubeless radials since I think there is a great improvement in ride to be gained. Plus if I ever need a tire dismounted, it's a snap. Thanks for the great knowledge and willingness to help an N600 guy.


Here's one photo--

 

To post photos directly from your computer you need to be a "supporter". Otherwise use one of the hosting sites like Photobucket. Edit - looks like you figured it out.

I found the #28157 but not the other. All Accuride numbers follow that same basic sequence. Others I found are #27851, 27784, and 28670. My Accuride catalogs span 1980 to 1991. They also list old obsoleted numbers but I didn't find a match to your second series of numbers. As for the Budds, you may find the numbers on the concave side stamped into the raised section that is the drop center. Stu

 

What should I expect to pay for used 9R-22.5 bus tires with some life left in them? Is any amount of checking acceptable? Separately, what should good used 22.5 wheels sell for?

 

No idea on 22.5s, I only personally buy used 19.5s. In good shape I've paid as much as $50 each for nice used bias ply traction tires. Radials like you want will be more plentiful. And I think it depends on how much tread is left, age, etc. I'd avoid checking/cracking personally. Stu

 

My local school district has their own bus repair shop. They sell the takeoff 9R22.5 tires for $10 each. They may have been removed due to age or tread depth. The DOT (or some other govt agency) requires that school bus tire be replaced when they reach a certain age (5 yrs?) or a certain tread depth (5/32"?). The tires they remove still have some life left in them.

 

Good advice and thank you. I'm pursuing this angle as well as shopping Craigslist.

 

I've also stumbled on some 235/80R22.5 XRV Michelin RV tires with 11/32 to 13/32 tread left BUT they were made in 2002. Seems to me if this were a car tire they would be too old and show signs of cracking. Does this apply to these truck tires as well and are these too old? The ad says no signs of cracking.

Any advice on this?

I do have the two 9R-22.5's on the front and may find those but the size tire above seems fairly plentiful as well as compatible with the size from the front.

Thank you all...I'm learning fast.

 

I'd be afraid to use 11 year old tires. I was given two 235/85R16 tires that looked new but were several years old (I don't recall the exact age). I put them on my '88 F SuperDuty and the tread on both of them promptly came flying off at 60 mph. The tires were still holding air even with the tread (and steel belts) completely gone! Apparently rubber loses its bond to the steel belts after a few years.

 

OK, here's an update. We cut the frame and are in the process of fitting the inside fishplate and bolting/welding things together. Also replaced all the wheel cylinders and hoses and cleaned and lubed brake shoe points and springs. On to the master cylinder and Hydravac next and probably all new brake lines just because. Brake shoes look like new and there is still paint on them.

Decided to leave the original 300 six cyl in there but remove engine and gasket everything fresh. Add a better intake manifold, better fuel pump, headers and a better carb--390 Holly. Beyond that, it's a great engine. Will also re-gasket trans (NP435) and probably re-wire truck from scratch. Might do the valve seats if anyone thinks I should for the unleaded issue.

Have the 22.5 wheels shown earlier and have two good 9R steering tires. Also have a good source on recap or used school bus 9R's so I'm probably good there.

Decided not to paint red. A color change is only good if it's perfect and I'd have to take half the truck apart to make the job perfect enough to be happy about it. I'm going to do a real nice same-color paint job with lots of clear coat but still thinking on that. Maybe just factory original paint and NO clear. Still thinking.

Thanks to all who have helped so far. I truly would not be this far ahead were it not for the help I got here. Especially helpful was ricevilian from this site--he's the guy with the red N500 "pickup" and where I got my inspiration from. Plus he's a nice guy. Stu also is a wealth of knowledge and willing to help.

Anyone know where I can get rubber cab donuts that hold up the back of the cab or where I can find a parts manual or shop manual?



Here are two photos--in the wrong order but it's difficult to post off these third-party sites. Does photo posting get easier as you make more posts? I'm going to post more photos on a tractor site so PM me in a few weeks if you want that link.

One photo is just the truck with new 124" WB and other is a cell phone photo with the cab just slid in place to check the length. It's spaced up six inches off the frame and all the lines line up. Henry would likely approve.

Please offer any positive comments or suggestions you might have--I'm all ears--as well as anything on paint or springs or whatever.

Thanks again.

 

You asked me in a P/M if the following contained N series truck info: 1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog (hipoparts.com CD).

I said yes and so I'm tossing in these pics from the CD for sheets & giggles.

Left lower pic: Door/window parts/weatherstrips same as F Series.

 

I would think the cab insulators are much the same as the F series trucks.. lots of aftermarket stuff and repro stuff as well.. look at Dennis Carpenter and some of the other parts suppliers... 4wd parts suppliers may also have item... an old school trick that I have used in a pinch are hockey pucks... not as pliable , but they do work...nice job so far...good luck

 

Bill--thank you very much. Will order disc this week. You really know your stuff.

Also, my truck was a "481" body code and a bed was added elsewhere.
Would my blue color likely be a factory paint job and color?

I'll add there is no paint code on my tag--it's blank in the paint code space.

Thank you.