I have a 1993 F150 that I have been working on. I have a set of complete doors off of a 1989 with Power Windows and locks hung on the truck and need to figure out how to power them up. Does anyone have access to a wiring diagram that will help me identify the colors of the wires in the doors. I don't carte about the auto down and all of that ... not going to try and convert the whole truck with comp and all ... just want to make these function. Any advice will be appreciated.

 

This diagram has the lock circuit in it.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...3f8021dd67.gif

Here's the power windows, but the diagram is for a 93-up. See if the wire colors are the same.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...3f8021dd78.gif

I helped a guy to this exact swap several years ago. I went and bought a 30 amp circuit breaker from the store, mounted it near the battery and ran power from the battery + to the circuit breaker, and then from the breaker into the cab to supply power for the door locks and the windows. This let the windows work all the time which didn't turn out to be a problem at all, the door locks normally work all the time.

It ends up being about 5 or 6 wires that run under the dash from one side to the other for both the door locks and the windows. The auto function you are talking about is made into the switch, so when you get it all hooked up that function will work.

 

That is exactly what I thought. Any idea were I might find information on what color wires are for what coming out of the door?

Thank you for the info ... you just confirmed what I already thought!

 

Those diagrams have the wire colors. Hopefully they are all the same.

 

Thanks ... I just missed the links on my first read ... guess I was just excirted about getting a response ... lol!

 

Franlin2, could you explain more in depth of how that set up with the circuit breaker works?

What gauge wire should be used for the feed for the positive terminal to the circuit breaker, and then to the cab?

How many hot wires go to the cab, and if more than one, do they go to either door, or just the drivers side?

 

The windows draw a lot of current sometimes, so the circuit should be 30 amp. So that would require a 30 amp circuit breaker you can buy at the autoparts store, and 10 gauge wire.

You need to mount the circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible, so the wire going from the battery to the circuit breaker is a short as possible, since it will be unprotected(before the circuit breaker). The wire after the circuit breaker will be protected by the circuit breaker.

You only need one 10 guage wire going into the cab. It can then be split to feed the doors and the door locks once you get through the firewall.

 

Thank you very much sir, I've been trying to find a thread like this for a few weeks, and to find one that's actually from this year! Would've been real stuck without you guys on here. Thanks

 

It turned out to be a pretty simple project thanks to some great advise on here and from others. 1 10 gauge wire of the battery with a 30 amp circuit breaker (In Line Fuse) about 8 inches from the battery, split under the dash to power the door locks and window(drivers side). About 8 wires from drivers door across under dash to passengers side and it was done. Took me about 2 hours including swapping the doors. The schematics linked earlier in the post were very helpful.

Good Job Guys ... THANKS!

 

I've also got my doors on as well! Went from a 94 F250 to an 81 F100..the windows work as they should but the locks don't, I'm not sure why they don't yet.

Does power go to the switch and from there to the windows and door locks? Or does the 10G wire split and go to the locks and windows seperately? Thanks

 

There should be separate wires. According to the diagrams in the previous posts, the hot wire for the windows is a lightblue/black wire. It splits and goes to both doors.

The hot wire for the door locks is a black white that feeds both doors.

So that will be a large junction where you came through the firewall, with two wires feeding both lightblue/black wires to each door for the windows, and two wires feeding both black/white wires feeding both door lock switches.

Since we are doing this homebrew style, you could split and feed one hot wire to each door, and then split that off when you get to the door to the black/white and the lightblue/black wire at each door.

 

I ran the 10G wire in to the left kick panel were i met the power wires for the drivers side. I went from that across under the dash to power the passengers door. I made my own "harness to cross under the dash ... I am not sure if it was a total of 6 or 8 wires. Works great.

Good Luck!

 

I know I'm digging this up, but I got 96 doors for my 86 supercab 6.9l diesel 4x4. i disliked the switches in the 86 which is I wanted to use the newer style switch but theres like 15 wires on the left door(drivers) switch, so what im reading is in order to get the windows and locks in the 96 doors to work in my 86 I only need one hot wire to the drivers side or do i have to have one in the drivers door and then split it off to head to the pass door? id like it to look/work as stock as possible so what do the other 8 or so wires do on the 96 switch?

 

Ive figured it out, now all i gotta do is splice the wires so it all works.

 

I am having an issue with my driver to passenger door power harness. The connector male and female pins are not matching up to allow for the power doors to operate as they should. I have power to the Blue/Black and the Black/White power feed wires. I have traced them back and forth, used another passenger door harness, and just matched the colors to allow both driver and passenger control swathes to work. Does anyone have a driver male pin color to passenger female pin match schematic available?