O.k. gentlemen, what is the the trick for getting your valve cover gaskets on? Mainly the passenger side in the backside close to the fire wall. The blower motor box kind a over hangs that area and makes it extremely difficult to get to the screw back into that corner. The screw is my major problem. Do you remove passenger tire and go in from there?
And tips or suggestions would be greatfully appreciated.
79' F150 400 auto 4x4 stepside............

 

1/4" ratchet, 6-12" of extensions, a wobble joint and your socket.

 

I will try that....I know with the 3/8 extension and wooble socket I could not get it. Maybe the smaller stuff will buy me some room. I did manage to get it off with the wooble and socket reaching in over the passenger tire. It was a blind reach and I could only used my hand to turn socket. I worry about getting it back in without compromising the gasket seal.

I have read were some people put thier gaskets on with RTV onto the valve covers and then onto the heads. Also I have read were others put them on the heads and then put on the valve covers. What is the best way?
Sorry , my first time doing this......

 

What I typically do is put the gasket on the valve cover using rtv black. Turn the valve cover upside down, so the gasket is now facing upward. Drop the valve cover bolts into the holes, so the gasket doesn't shift/move/slide...and let the gasket dry/tack up. After 15-30 minutes, I put another round of RTV on the gasket that mounts to the head, and now I put it on.

 

Apply RTV to the valve cover rails and then let it outgas .....letting the RTV outgas is key. Then apply the gasket and insert the bolts. And if the RTV oozes out, then ya used too much... a little goes a looooong way.

 

Outgas? So... you let it set up a bit, and then do what 704 Dentside Man does?

What about putting the screws in? Is there a certain torque setting "one" should use when putting back onto heads ??

 

I think 704's sequence was off. 'Not sure he was thinkingi faster than his fingers typed.

Torque? Gasket brands vary so using a standard spec is iffy. Evenly snug... not gorilla tight.

 

I will be swapping tall chrome valve covers for a pair of stock blue covers on my
75, 390 w/ac. Should i expect problems or will it be clear sailing? One option
is to cut a big hole through the back of the glove box.
It is a similar story with 60s T-Birds if you must work under the dash. Remove the
engine and cut a hole in the fire wall.

 

I am stoked I found this thread! About to steal and replace my valve covers and intake manifold for the first time…engine in truck.

Thanks!

 

i used 3M super weatherstrip window adhesive to keep the gasket on the valve cover.
real thin film on them

before you put them on Be sure they are flat.... you do not want to do this a 2nd time.

Very important is to make sure the valve cover is flat all the way around and not sunken down where the bolts hold it down.

 

Above X2, don't over torque. Only takes inch pounds, you can snug up bit later on if a little weepy. If you overtighten, you're in trouble from the start.

 

Old thread but still "timely", I need to do it again.

Back in the early '90s I had swapped on fresh heads, thought all was good, started out from our home to come work on this one ... half a mile later saw black smoke ... quick turn around, pull in drive, grab a hose and turn on water as I opened hood, fire on drivers exaust manifold from oil running out of valve cover. I got it out, saw gasket had sqished out between bolts. I got lucky. Ferllow at NAPA sold me on a white glue like from the sealant rack, new gaskets again .... been good but it does leak some down back of heads now.

Truck has thick steel chromed Morosso valve covers was on it when I bought it, nice flanges except the lip is upward unlike stock ones which have downward lips. I have since found a nice set of stock ones, I might clean and paint them and use them instead, likely will seal better.

 

covers are still currently off, but I plan on using valve cover studs to replace the bolts. this should hold the gaskets in place. now the rear PS hole will be hard to get to. I might use a traditional bolt in that hole given the tight nature of the heater/AC condenser on the firewall.

 

I thought all the 335 engines had upside down flange on covers? Except the aluminum Boss's. Kind of a backwards Bunkie Knudsen era move. JMO

 

Well, I haven't looked at the extra pair in years, they are stored, so I could be wrong.

I'll look.
Update:
Well ..... DADBURNIT! .... YOU ARE RIGHT!
I thought they turned down from recolection, but nope, they are up turned. Maybe gasket stickum will stick better to them than chrome on the Morossos? Maybe I just need to scuff the Morossos' lips real good and reuse them, they are heavier steel?