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1988 Ford F250 tires and lift

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Old 07-31-2013, 03:41 PM
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1988 Ford F250 tires and lift

Hi all, I have been lurking but thought I might start a thread to pick up some knowledge as run into issues.

I'm rehabbing a 1998 Ford F250 460ci. Truck has been on the ranch since new and it is worn out. It might be the ugliest truck on the road but she is tough.

This truck is now going to primarily be used to hunt around the ranch and pull the toys to the camp sight. Nothing fancy is necessary nor do I care about how soft the ride is. I just want it to go straight and be dependable. I have a newer f-350 for the long trips or when the wife is coming along.

I'm to the part of the rebuild process where I need to work on the suspension. The front/rear leaf springs and shocks are trashed and are sagging from the extra weight and 25 years of bouncing around.

I have priced replacing the suspension with OEM and the price has pushed me to look at lift kits. What makes the most sense to me is to install a 4inch lift (Bronco Graveyard, $1450 delivered) which includes front and rear springs, shocks, bushings, etc.

The next step would be to order a set of military take off 37's with hummer wheels. I'm not worried about the rear clearance because of the flatbed. On the front I don't mind trimming as necessary.

What do you guys think about these plans? I'm wide open to suggestions as long as we don't blow up the budget.

I'm going to try and attach a picture or two of this beauty.

Thanks! Bill D.
 
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:53 PM
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Here is a picture of Waldo.
 
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:12 AM
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I'm at about the same point with my 87 F250. After exhaustive research I found that I can get the parts for the Skyjacker lift kit components (everything but springs and shocks) off of Amazon with free shipping to Alaska (which is rare), for pretty cheap. So I've got the F860T kit waiting to go on.

Amazon.com: Skyjacker F860T Comp Kit Box,6"F250I No T: Automotive Amazon.com: Skyjacker F860T Comp Kit Box,6"F250I No T: Automotive




They also have the component kit for the 4" lift (only difference is rear blocks height and u-bolts) for about 330$

Amazon.com: Skyjacker F840T Comp Kit Box,4"F250I No T: Automotive Amazon.com: Skyjacker F840T Comp Kit Box,4"F250I No T: Automotive


The prices have gone up, I got my F860T for about 288$

Now I'm trying to source springs. Summit sells the Superlift springs for 119$ each.

6"

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-01-106

4"

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-01-104

And the neat thing about the SJ drop brackets is they'll work for either lift height (6 or 4), as long as you match the springs to the holes you bolt the I-beams to. They're also by far the strongest, and the SL springs are supposed to ride better than the SJ springs. The SL springs are less than half the cost so it's a win-win.


This would all work out if Summit wouldn't charge about 300$ in shipping for 238$ of leaf springs. Which is absurd. Anyway beyond that shocks and a drop pitman arm, and longer brake hoses. I should have this all rounded off for a little over 600$. I may also put on some air springs up front (heavy diesel engine) but we'll see.

If I'm right this is the most cost effective way to lift these trucks. On the other hand, if you're in an area where you can find cheap Dana 60's in good condition you can do a D60 swap. I think you may need to have a new front shaft made, change some steering stuff but it's supposedly pretty straitforward well. Might not cost a whole lot more but I personally like the TTB for what I use the truck for.

While you're in there definitely change out all of the brake components. Calipers, hoses, wheel bearings, rotors, pads, pins, etc... they're all really cheap for this era of truck and mine were badly worn out.
 
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:43 AM
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Thanks for the excellent info.

A few questions:

The F860T kit doesn't include everything they show in the picture? I would still need to source the front and rear springs and shocks? All the necessary extras will put me past $600 in a hurry.

The shipping is killing me as well. I need to replace both front and rear springs. That is what got me looking at the bronco graveyard kit. New springs front and rear and all necessary pieces and they are only charging $150 for shipping.

Do you not like the rough country lift ($760 delivered) ? (Ford Suspension Lift Kit

I thought I might do this lift and buy stock springs ($450 delivered). But, the reviews are mixed.

That would bring my total to $ 1200. That doesn't help me too much. So, I'm back to just buying it from Broncograveyard and crying about it.

I have one rear spring on both sides that are cracked. That is why I'm just going to replace the whole set and be done with it. I have both the front and rear end off the truck and at the sandblasting shop. New brakes front and rear and new wheel bearings are ready to go. $$$$$
 
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:53 PM
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Concerning the OP's options. Have you gone to any of the local truck shops for like semi's and such? Ask them where they get their springs re-arched at. There's a local shop by me, If I bring the leafs to them they put them in a machine and re-arch. Heck of a lot cheaper than New ones or Lift kits.
 
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by txnightster
Thanks for the excellent info.

A few questions:

The F860T kit doesn't include everything they show in the picture? I would still need to source the front and rear springs and shocks? All the necessary extras will put me past $600 in a hurry.

The shipping is killing me as well. I need to replace both front and rear springs. That is what got me looking at the bronco graveyard kit. New springs front and rear and all necessary pieces and they are only charging $150 for shipping.

Do you not like the rough country lift ($760 delivered) ? (Ford Suspension Lift Kit

I thought I might do this lift and buy stock springs ($450 delivered). But, the reviews are mixed.

That would bring my total to $ 1200. That doesn't help me too much. So, I'm back to just buying it from Broncograveyard and crying about it.

I have one rear spring on both sides that are cracked. That is why I'm just going to replace the whole set and be done with it. I have both the front and rear end off the truck and at the sandblasting shop. New brakes front and rear and new wheel bearings are ready to go. $$$$$
Ah, so you have to replace the rear springs anyway. Yeah, that takes a lot of the economy out of the skyjacker parts kit with it's lift blocks + superlift front springs.

The parts kit is everything but shocks and springs. Although it's not a good idea to run either lift without a drop pitman, and in the case of the 6" longer brake hoses.

The rough country lift is supposed to be pretty good for trucks that don't see much off-road use, but need some extra ground clearance. Plow trucks, utility trucks, but the key to any TTB lift kit is the drop brackets. With any given set there is a risk that they'll apply too much torque on that crossmember and it'll crack. This is pretty common, and it's one of the big reasons D60 swap is preferred to TTB lift. The Skyjacker lift brackets have the best track record for not encountering this issue. They're beefier than the factory units.

My initial idea was to get the RC lift, and buy the SJ drop brackets. They can be had on ebay for as low as 70$ if you're patient. Then I figured out it would be cheaper to use the SJ parts box, and the SL springs.
 
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike1
Concerning the OP's options. Have you gone to any of the local truck shops for like semi's and such? Ask them where they get their springs re-arched at. There's a local shop by me, If I bring the leafs to them they put them in a machine and re-arch. Heck of a lot cheaper than New ones or Lift kits.
I have visited with them and the cost difference isn't that much different because I have to replace certain springs and would need all new hardware. The cost adds up and I end up with a stock height which wouldn't allow me to install the 37's.
 
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:45 AM
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It appears that I'm going to have to hold off on buying upgrades for the truck.

I was poking around last night and my steering box is pretty darn loose. It's pretty easy to access while I have the front end dropped so I'm going to replace it this weekend. Bummer.
 
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Old 08-02-2013, 03:34 PM
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i have a 4" lift and am currently running the military 37's with no trimming.

i would just save your money and get a quality lift. those originals springs/bushings etc are old and tired anyway. . .better to just spend a little more money once than spend less and do it twice. . .or 3 times. . .

as for the steering box, you can get those at any you-pick jy for almost nothing. have a friend wrench on the wheel while you watch the box to make sure it doesn't have excessive play, then snake the box.
 
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
i have a 4" lift and am currently running the military 37's with no trimming.

i would just save your money and get a quality lift. those originals springs/bushings etc are old and tired anyway. . .better to just spend a little more money once than spend less and do it twice. . .or 3 times. . .

as for the steering box, you can get those at any you-pick jy for almost nothing. have a friend wrench on the wheel while you watch the box to make sure it doesn't have excessive play, then snake the box.
Which 4 inch lift did you install? That's good to here that the 37's fit with no issue. Which of the wheels did you go with? I'm unsure if the backspacing on the stock H1 wheels will work?

I tried to adjust and tighten the steering box this weekend but didn't have any real luck. I'm going to wait until I install the lift and jerk it out at that time.

This weekend I was able to purchase two captains chairs and console this weekend for $90. Big improvement over the nasty bench seat that wouldn't slide or fold forward. With the seats out and the carpet removed I have come to the realization that I am taking too many things off and fixing and then putting back it back together again just so I can drive the truck a little bit. It's time to just put it on jack stands and take the next 6 months to rebuild.

On a long project like this it is so tempting to cut corners just so you can keep the truck on the road. This is going to be a long lesson in delayed gratification.

Keep the suggestions and ideas coming. I'm learning a lot searching thru the old threads.
 
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