EBPV SENSOR
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Victor Harbor South Aust
EBPV SENSOR
G'day Fellas,
Seeing that the EBPV is designed to close in for faster warm up time by choking off the tubo outlet and only required in proper cold ambient temps, is it at all necessary out here in Aust?
My opinion is that it isn't at all needed.
I know you can get a Pedestal without the butterfly Vv in it, but I'm going to wait until I need to pull the turbo for good reason before doing that mod.
I know that you can disconnect the sensor at the Pedestal and that will take it out out the system and the valve will stay fully opened (hopefully).
It is important you only unplug the connection at the base of the turbo pedestal as the PCM needs the one on the tube for fueling.
So my question is: Have any of you fellas out here unplugged the EBPV sensor at the pedestal.
If you have or did, was there anything of note?
I'm just trying to take out yet another thing that could cause issues by sticking partly closed and hurting fuel usage and peformance.
Cheers,
Reg
.
Seeing that the EBPV is designed to close in for faster warm up time by choking off the tubo outlet and only required in proper cold ambient temps, is it at all necessary out here in Aust?
My opinion is that it isn't at all needed.
I know you can get a Pedestal without the butterfly Vv in it, but I'm going to wait until I need to pull the turbo for good reason before doing that mod.
I know that you can disconnect the sensor at the Pedestal and that will take it out out the system and the valve will stay fully opened (hopefully).
It is important you only unplug the connection at the base of the turbo pedestal as the PCM needs the one on the tube for fueling.
So my question is: Have any of you fellas out here unplugged the EBPV sensor at the pedestal.
If you have or did, was there anything of note?
I'm just trying to take out yet another thing that could cause issues by sticking partly closed and hurting fuel usage and peformance.
Cheers,
Reg
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
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From: Adelaide
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,164
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From: Canberra Australia
Hi Reg, in SA I doubt whether it'd ever get cold enough to for the truck to close the EBPV. Your only use for it would be to run a DECEL tune to have an exhaust brake for when towing heavy on a steep decent.
I'm with you on eliminating points of failure. I blew my EBPV actuator rod seal in the stock pedestal and dumped 17L of sump oil on the road before the engine cut out.
I had enough spare oil in the back to get me home.
No big damage. I just put on the EBPV delete pedestal & turbo high-flow outlet, and 2 points of failure were gone, so long as I didn't park the truck in the snow or idle up there for extended periods. To date I've done neither of those things!
One lesson for me was that the stock up-pipes never sealed after the turbo removal & refit. Ideally you need to factor in a set of bellowed IH up-pipes - which I saw are over $800 now and so are 75% of the cost of doing the EBPV delete right-1st-time (i.e. avoiding the leaky up-pipe fix).
I'm with you on eliminating points of failure. I blew my EBPV actuator rod seal in the stock pedestal and dumped 17L of sump oil on the road before the engine cut out.
I had enough spare oil in the back to get me home.
No big damage. I just put on the EBPV delete pedestal & turbo high-flow outlet, and 2 points of failure were gone, so long as I didn't park the truck in the snow or idle up there for extended periods. To date I've done neither of those things!
One lesson for me was that the stock up-pipes never sealed after the turbo removal & refit. Ideally you need to factor in a set of bellowed IH up-pipes - which I saw are over $800 now and so are 75% of the cost of doing the EBPV delete right-1st-time (i.e. avoiding the leaky up-pipe fix).
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 18,787
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From: Melbourne, Aus
Its primarily there to get the coolant hot quicker to get the heater working in really cold temps.
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