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1950 Ford F1 passenger door lock removal? Advice?

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Old 07-30-2013, 11:24 AM
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1950 Ford F1 passenger door lock removal? Advice?

I have looked at other posts on here on how to remove the passenger door lock from my 1950 F1. My ignition key doesn't fit into the door lock and so I would like to get a key for the lock to lock the truck and make sure I don't ever get locked out.

From other posts I know I have to remove the hollow head set screw from the opening in the door jam. Currently, I can't get it out. I have snapped an Allen wrench and bent one, so I am struggling with that. But, when I get the screw out, how do I get the lock out? It can't be small enough to fit through the hole in the door jam can it? Do I have to take the panel off? My panel has screws that are so rusted I want to make sure I only remove screws that need to come out because right now I don't have the time to tackle making repairs to the door. I want to try to get the lock out first and have a locksmith cut a key for the lock and then put the lock back in.

So, any help, advice, tips, pictures, etc would be of great help. Thanks so much.

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Old 07-30-2013, 11:30 AM
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Be very careful trying to get the allen setscrew out; the tube it's in can snap off and then you'll be really screwed -- just like me...

What you can do depends on whether your truck is nicely painted or you can use a torch or other nasty methods. It's in a very inconvenient place. If the door is off, it's a big help.

After the set screw is loosened, the whole cylinder slips out. Replacements are cheap chinese junk and mine broke the first time I used it.
 
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:44 AM
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I worked on mine for more than a week. Repeatedly spraying in penetrating oils etc. Finally got the drivers door set screw to break loose, and removed the lock. The passenger door no luck. I talked to a old local mechanic and he advised me to drill out the set screw and tap with a larger size. I carefully drilled with a bit just smaller than the #10 set screw. All the way into the lock and finally worked the lock out. I then ran a #10 tap into the hole and it chased out the remainder of the old set screw. I realize that I was lucky not skillful. The set screws are about 5/8" long, and I haven't found a suitable replacement yet.
 
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by fbb1951
... I realize that I was lucky not skillful. The set screws are about 5/8" long, and I haven't found a suitable replacement yet.
You must have a lot more skill than the guy at the body shop that broke mine clean off!

Just use a regular fillister-head screw to replace it, the whole set-screw idea is a head-scratcher IMO. A fillister head (like used on carbs) will let you put some muscle on it without stripping. Coat the screw and tube with antiseize, too.

I don't know if you are planning to buy a new lock cylinder from MACs or similar, but they are JUNK. The key is about 1/8" tall after they mill the teeth on it, barely goes in/out of the cylinder, and the cylinder itself is cast out of the cheapest pot metal on earth. I couldn't find a locksmith to make a key to fit at any price. They've become real prima donnas.
 
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:32 PM
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It's not they are primadonnas, it just they are like most "technicians" today they never really learned the old ways of their craft, only how to remove and replace.
 
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Old 07-31-2013, 02:46 PM
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I had already bought two locks, keyed alike, from "Obsolete and Classic Parts Inc." They are probably also China imports, but I now have 4 door keys. It's going to be quite a while before things like this get re-installed. Still having trouble finding a painter. One says Sept. 1st, but I'm not holding my breath . Good idea on the fillister-head screw.
 
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