I have cleaned up the 9 inch rear end. Bought all new brake parts (kept the drums). I will sand blast the axle and drums before I reassemble. I need to replace the pinion seal, it has leaked a little. I have almost completed the sand blasting of the frame, and will begin painting it in the next few days. I am using "Master Series" primer (Silver) and paint (AG111, gloss black).

I have been looking for a media blaster to do the body panels, bed and cab. No luck locally, and I'm not getting any responses from websites I have emailed. Living in the sticks sometimes has it's drawbacks. Any ideas?

I have now 120 photos in the Photobucket. I need to edit them to a few. The link is below, if you want to look.

 

Don't use just any blaster! They may be more experienced at blasting brick walls, concrete walks and/or cemetery tombstones than tender sheet metal. See if you can locate a high end restorer or hot rod builder and see who they recommend/use. It is worth it to trailer your project a fair distance to the right blaster. One clue s that the blaster cleans and rust proofs or prime the metal immediately after blasting. If you can't find someone, you can always invest the money you'd spend on the blasting to buy/rent your own equipment. If you decide to go the DIY route come back for suggestions on the right equipment, media, etc to use.

 

AXracer, I have a Harbor Freight baster that I am using on the frame and other thick durable steel pieces. I don't plan to do any sheet metal myself if I can avoid it. I am looking for a media blaster that is experienced in classic and antique car restoration. The problem is finding someone willing to do the work. I have an enclosed trailer or access to an old moving van to move the pieces. It's 200 miles to the nearest metro areas from where I live. I will keep looking. Anyone familiar with media blasters in northern or central Utah feel free to chime in here with recommendations.

I am reading your thread on welding. Great read and a valuable resource. I am not too old to learn. I''v been welding for 30 years, but not all that well on critical thin items.

 

Anyone with info on tilt steel frontend would be greatly appreciated doing frame off and am at the fabrication stage
Thanks
Mike

 

Mols51, Centrally located right here in the heart of Oklahoma ,Classic Auto. page 178 of the printed catalog. They list one for 53-56 and some for fiberglass hoods.

LMCtruck.com page 19 of the printed catalog. They have a similar item for 53 to 56.

I can't see why these couldn't be made to work on a 51

Someone on ebay with plans for sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-BLUEPRINTS-FLIP-FRONT-END-TILT-FRONT-END-PLANS-Gasser-Hot-Rod-street-rod-/261260104735?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3cd450d41f&vxp=mtr

 

Brent
Thanks for the info I will take a look at the suppliers you sent I was hoping to do a steel tilt using the origanal steel so at some time later it could go back
Thanks
Mike

 

Well I have found a media blaster. It sounds like he knows his business. He recommended not soda blasting, but glass or another non aggressive media. We will decide when he see's the truck pieces. He can do any media type. Total inside, outside, both sides of every body part blast. About $1700.00 for blasting, then clean and epoxy prime all pieces, time and materials on the primer. Total around $3000,00 for blast and prime,I think. I have to transport 200 miles and return trip a week later for the finished product. Getting excited, I have a lot of work to do to get the frame and axles ready.

 

I need help in finding a way to remove the bolts that go through the sides of the bed, and hold on the rear fenders. When I dismantled the truck I was relieved that they held fast and allowed me to remove the nuts in the wheel wells without the bolts spinning. Now I can't get them out at all. I thought they were square shouldered like a carriage bolt, but I can't drive them out. They are as secure as if they were welded on. Who has removed these bolts and how? I have new stainless bolts to mount the fenders after painting. Don't want the old rusted ones. Help!

 

They are tack welded to the bed sides, it's not your imagination. People have used various methods to remove them without damaging the bed sides, but if they are not stripped or broken, the easiest solution is to just leave them alone. Mid Fifty sells stainless replacement bolts.

 

AXracer thanks,

Welded in was my conclusion. I did a search and found this article through a link in another FTE thread. Ford F1 Rear Fender Replacement - Classic Trucks Magazine
It details the process to remove the bolts. The only damage on mine are due to me hammering on a couple to test them. Buggered a few threads, but that's what dies are for.

 

Okay......the way the hot rod guru removed my rear fender bolts from the bed, without damaging the bed, and all done in about 20 minutes, works as follows.....

Imagine the head of the bolt is 1 inch. Get a footlong piece of 3 inch pipe with 1 inch thick sidewalls - unusual, but not impossible to find, - hold pipe firmly against inside bedside, with bolt head in the inside opening of the pipe. Hit the thread end of the bolt with a big flat headed hammer ("Bricklayers mallet") and fire the bolt across the shed atleast 30 feet!

Job done!

 

I found an easy way to remove the rear fender bolts. I used the 4" grinder with a cut-off blade. I made four cuts into the bolt head face, like # pattern. As deep as I could with out scoring the bed wall. Then i grabbed the bolt from the outside with a vise grip and wiggled the bolt back and forth. it broke out just leaving the welded areas on the bed side. These were removed with a hammer and a sharp brick set chisel. Grind off the weld bumps smooth. I took about 45 minutes to do all 22 bolts.

The truck cab, doors, and all the sheet metal is at the media blaster. Due back blasted and epoxy primed at the end of the week, if I'm lucky. I have been blasting and painting the frame, axles and a few other parts. I finished the last coat of the finish urethane paint today. I am using "Master Series" primer (Silver) and paint (AG111, gloss black). Tomorrow I will re-assemble the brakes and put the axles on the frame to get back to a rolling chassis. I am waiting on a new heavy duty tie rod and ends, as I'm going with a Toyota power steering box conversion.

 

Brent I am also doing 51 f1 and at about the same. Stage as your photobucket pics how much did it cost you to have the body parts blasted are you doing chevy v8 that is the route I am going with mustang 11 frontend and 9" rear with fat man 4link 350 with 700r your truck looks great
Thanks
Mike

 

Mike, A good question on the blasting. I am scheduled to pick it up tomorrow 9/4. I had a quote of $1700, but won't know until I arrive. Yes a Chevy SB, but a HT383 Stroker, TH 400 trans. Ford 9" axle rear. Disc front brakes and drum rear. Do you have pics?
Brent

 

Brent
Complete blast on everything including the chassis 1500.00 this includes coat of epoxy primer it does not include cab or the doors that I am dropping off tomorrow just south of Orlando fla at at chemical stripper he is charging me 1000.00 for the job blaster could not do it due to the tar in the cab I have a little trouble with this site and pics if you have email I will send some I am still trying to get some up on this site just ordered my hiedts mustang 11 are you deleting the vent window
Mike