Thanks for all the reply's and ideas. I am looking for a full frame off restore. Doing everything that I can do myself. The truck came from California central valley, but has been in Utah for the last 20 years. Mostly garage kept. There are only a few small rust areas, as can be seen in the pics (darker primer paint). However I don't know what lurks under the paint. I can detect a couple areas of past bondo repair. It's been painted at least twice before. The original paint was light blue-green, then yellow, and now the gray.

I am retired so the truck can occupy all the time I care to give to it. Now at least it's a few hours every day. The problem seems to be finding an automotive painter. Everyone I talk to mostly wants to do insurance work. They don't want an entire vehicle occupying the shop space. There are no dedicated restoration shops within a couple hundred miles. Not sure I could afford that route anyway. That's why I disassembled the truck. I can get the bad spots repaired on the individual panels. All the pieces stripped or blasted, and primer painted.

As for keeping it stock I don't know. I will do front discs and a new brake master cylinder. I have an HT383E Stroker and a TH350 trans. that are almost new. Less than 20K miles, that are begging to go in something. Maybe I should find an old Chevy to work on.

The 9K lift was the best thing I have bought in a long time. Lift the bed off, the cab off, the front end off, no problem. Next is removal of the motor and trans. so I can re-do the frame.

 

Don't even THINK about putting that in this truck!!

 

I see it is a 5 star extra cab truck . If you consider adding a Magic Air heater system please get in touch . One just left for Bonney Lake ,Wash. & another is ready for shipment to Aurora, Co. Can send pics . Will post on here this week .Thanks , Denny

 

It has a heater now, but I will do some research on Magic Air heater systems. I will be going 12V so at least need to get a resistor or a new 12V fan.

 

A correct size 12V replacement fan motor is available form several sources . Thanks , Denny

 

I am looking for the correct Ford 9" rear axle for the 51 F1 frame. Anyone know a link to a sizing chart. What years and models of Fords had the right 9" rear end? Looking for better road gear ratios. The flathead winds out at 45 to 50 MPH.

 

'68 - '70 Ford 1/2 ton pickup .There is a '70 Ford 9" in the 1St-RIDE . Width is correct . No Limit makes a shock relocation mt. kit . It worked perfect for me .Used 3:50 gears .

 

firstrider, Thanks for the reply.

 

Check the forum for a complete list of rearend swap info. I believe the f100 from late 50's-72 are the correct width. Just watch out for the 9 3/8" rear end that came in some as the parts don't interchange. It is still supposed to be a good rear end, just that parts are hard to come by. You can easily tell the difference by looking at the webbing cast into the diff case. The 9" has all straight horizontal webs, where the 9 3/8" has one that curves down on the right side.

 

1953 - 1956 F100 Rear End Selection and Rear Suspension Lowering .: Articles

(says it's 53 - 56, but it is the same for Bonus Builts)

 

one thing to take into account is brakes as well: pre 68 brakes were one style, 69 was a unique year (the year dual circuit was mandated by law), and 70+ were another style...
so my advice would be to find a 70-72 model. wider shoes, self adjusters, etc. but like pointed out before and the article 57-72 all work.

 

Good to know. The one I have my eye on, is a 1971, F100, 1/2 ton axle. It looks like it's the one to use. Any ideas on how to evaluate it when I see it in person? It's out of the truck, can't readily see the mileage on it.

 

take both hubs off and look at the brake system - all the parts there, springs broken, adjusters misaligned and ground up, hubs need turning but worn through to the point of no meat left....
brake lines all good, no kinks, rounded off fittings, etc

put it up on blocks and try turning the diff, does it turn easily enough by hand / short bar... make any funny noises... and probably a biggie is there any oil in it still... don't care if it is black as coal as long as it wasn't stored for 20 years open (water intrusion) and no oil.

I know the seller might be slightly offended at asking to open it up, but if it is off the vehicle I'd want to pop the thing open and see if it was all rusty inside or not.

And probably another biggie - don't buy a way wonky ridiculous gear ratio.... without knowing your specific trans and tire choices I will *generally* suggest 3.25 - 3.70 ratio... I have a 3.00 and it is just too far past the ideal (using a wide ratio T5), stock trans a lot of people like 3.5, several people here have suggested 3.70 for use with the narrow ratio T5.


Be aware that going this route will almost assuredly give you 28 spline... aftermarket probably supports 31 spline a little better, but the 31 spline bronco and mustang diff's that are the right width are almost as rare as the dodo bird now. Nothing wrong with 28 spline unless you are dropping in a 400hp drag strip design.

 

Hey Brent,
If that 9 inch doesn't work out - we went with an 8.8 in. axle from a Ford Explorer. They are plentiful - our's came with 3.73 gears, posi-trac, & disc brakes - All for $125. (The lug pattern is different from stock though we installed a Mustang II front end so it matched up well).

Good luck over there.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

I second that emotion. Disc conversion OK for safety, but a Ch**y in that beauty is just wrong. What engine is in it now?