not sure what the value of the resistance is of the sensor.
You can buy these but they're out of the US, Ford 7.3L 6.0L Powerstroke Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Eliminator EBPSES2, no mention of the resistor they use.

Scorpion Performance Diesel

 

Thanks for that.
I'll have a look but I'll bet thay are a lot more expensive
than a half watt resistor from Jaycar.

I'll keep searching.

 

I'm hearing ya.
I'll do a search myself for ya.

 

Thanks.

I spent a couple of hours last night digging around the
net and only found info about the expensive parts you
posted links to.

I did turn up some detailed info about how it functions
that may help me work it out.

ECSD - Exhaust Back Pressure (EBP) Sensor - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ

If I get time later today I will go over it and see
what I can figure out.

 

I have still the EBP sensor set up on mine, and no EBPV and T/M actuator with no stored codes, so you will be okay just to fit a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the terminal plug of the W/G solenoid socket.
That way you can still get readings for the EBP sensor, anyway that's what i have done.

 

The new down pipe is all welded up, a quick coat of high temp paint and now it's time to start the job.

 

Finally finished the jobs today

If I never have to connect the up-pipe collector to the back
of the turbo again it will be way way way too soon!!
What a mongrel of a job.
The leak from that end of the engine was the EBPV actuator
piston leaking.
There was also signs of a slight leak from the joint between
the turbo and pedestal.

After getting the fuel bowl off I found a puddle of oil under
the HPOP.
This turned out to be the infamous "unservicable plug".
I replaced the plug and all the other O-rings and seals,
refitted it with a new gasket.

I finished late today and have started the truck, no sign
of any leaks.

I will take it for a run tomorrow and fine tune the waste
gate actuator.

 

Well done Brian,i had a heap of trouble fitting the new up-pipes too,it's not much fun on your own. how did you go getting the IPR out , did you re ring the IPR sensor?
What about the HP lines to each head?
I have purchased new HP lines from CNC fabrication , they don't use the o-rings and snap -on fittings instead use JIC fittings.

hope they'll be ok , i have read dozens of people have used them,and they're half the price even with the freight.

High pressure HPOP lines

 

The IPR was easy. I bought a deep socket of the right size but found
it was not quite deep enough.

However I noticed that the small threaded end was 1/2" in diameter
so I got out a 1/2" drill bit and drilled out the hole in the socket
to 1/2" so the end of the regulator would fit through.

It only needed to go about 1/4" into the square drive area of the
socket so there was still plenty for the rachet to engage with and
I was able to remove and replace it easily.

It did take a bit to drill the socket, slow and steady with a bit of
water to keep it cool. I used a low speed battery powered drill.

I replaced the regulator and the sensor. The sensor showed signs of
oil but I was not entirely certain if it was actually leaking but I replaced
it anyway.

I fitted the CNC HP oil lines and HPX. Excellent product, very well made.
They are a bit stiff to work with but not too bad with all the other stuff
already out of the way but I would not want to fight with them when
the fuel bowl and stuff was in the way.

I also decided to replace the fuel hard lines. They were both a bit
worse for wear, slightly kinked at the fuel bowl end.
I replaced them with steel braided teflon lines and "Proflow" AN fittings.

I sheathed the lines with the fireproof fiberglass sleeves.

No more fiddley Vibralok sleeves on these lines. I might look at
doing the same with the 3/8" inflow and 5/16" return lines at a
later date.

 

Good job with the fuel lines , i think Corey at CNC does a 4 piece hard line for this model too.
You should be good now for a lot of miles.

 

All great jobs to do!
I just live with the EBPV code coming up on the EDGE multi-function gauge I have.

I've not had another leak since I replaced the o-rings in the fuel bowl with the military spec rings. I think the Ozzy ULSD fuel dissolves the stock yellow rings.

I really like have the truck running smoothly & super reliable with the upgrade

 

Had the first drive today since doing all the fixes and mods.

First problem was a bad fuel leak.

Turned out to be the lid of the fuel bowl needed tightening.

No signs of any oil leak.

Got almost 28PSI of boost climbing a bit of a hill with the
pedal to the metal so I will need to back off the wastegate
actuator a little.

Really noticed the improvement with the new wastegate actuator,
the up-pipes not leaking and the WW2 in the turbo.

It is still running a little rough and takes a bit to start but I
guess that is due to the HP oil lines and fuel rails having air in
them, hope it will improve as I put more Ks on it.

I will hook the PC up tomorrow, run up AE and see what
it has to say.

 

FRx should get rid of the air in the fuel rails, have you done the in-tanks mods?

 

Simon, if you mean the "huch mod" that gets rid of the in tank filter,
yes I have.
I have a 30 micron filter in the line before the stock pump with an
additional solid state helper pump between the tank and the filter
to make up for any reduction in flow caused by the filter.

These have been in place for a year or so and have been working
well. I changed the filter cartridge as part of the recent jobs.

The hard start and rough running are getting better every time
I start it.

I guess I'll know more after I get EA hooked up.

 

AB, you just need to give the truck a good hard run for an hour or so to bleed the air out of the HP oil system, that should fix your rough idling problem.