help. me delete my EGR
#1
#2
To do it properly, the computer needs to be 'told' these items are no longer there.
If you want to try and fool things, there is an EGR delete thingy out there. But I have heard 50/50 results with that. You can also unplug the vacuum lines between the thermactor and intake, then plug the opening at the sensors, leaving them connected to the wiring harness. But the computer will still think these things are there and take them into account. That's why the proper way is to update the computer with a tuner or chip.
And if it's the stock motor, it should be a 351w, not 351m. I don't think the M was offered then, but maybe someone else can chime in.
If you want to try and fool things, there is an EGR delete thingy out there. But I have heard 50/50 results with that. You can also unplug the vacuum lines between the thermactor and intake, then plug the opening at the sensors, leaving them connected to the wiring harness. But the computer will still think these things are there and take them into account. That's why the proper way is to update the computer with a tuner or chip.
And if it's the stock motor, it should be a 351w, not 351m. I don't think the M was offered then, but maybe someone else can chime in.
#3
To do it properly, the computer needs to be 'told' these items are no longer there.
If you want to try and fool things, there is an EGR delete thingy out there. But I have heard 50/50 results with that. You can also unplug the vacuum lines between the thermactor and intake, then plug the opening at the sensors, leaving them connected to the wiring harness. But the computer will still think these things are there and take them into account. That's why the proper way is to update the computer with a tuner or chip.
And if it's the stock motor, it should be a 351w, not 351m. I don't think the M was offered then, but maybe someone else can chime in.
If you want to try and fool things, there is an EGR delete thingy out there. But I have heard 50/50 results with that. You can also unplug the vacuum lines between the thermactor and intake, then plug the opening at the sensors, leaving them connected to the wiring harness. But the computer will still think these things are there and take them into account. That's why the proper way is to update the computer with a tuner or chip.
And if it's the stock motor, it should be a 351w, not 351m. I don't think the M was offered then, but maybe someone else can chime in.
Do you think a Tweecer or Moates programmer is the better tool? Or another? Plan on some other small mods such as edlebrock intake, larger throttlebodies, C.A.I. piped up to a highrise cowl induction hood, shift kit, possible gear swap ( if 33's even warrant that) its been suggested that i just get a hi po ecu preprogrammed to my specs but i dunno whats best. All i know is i love tinkerin with my truck lol
#4
Yeah sorry about that, was typing fast and its a 95 not a 93. Have been reading & think ill keep the egr but the airpump has to go. Someone already removed the cat(poorly) so its chuggin for no reason but to sound awful. Plus the manifold leaks so imma streamline things with some really good shorty headers, a proper y pipe & high flow exhaust & be done with that mess.
Do you think a Tweecer or Moates programmer is the better tool? Or another? Plan on some other small mods such as edlebrock intake, larger throttlebodies, C.A.I. piped up to a highrise cowl induction hood, shift kit, possible gear swap ( if 33's even warrant that) its been suggested that i just get a hi po ecu preprogrammed to my specs but i dunno whats best. All i know is i love tinkerin with my truck lol
Do you think a Tweecer or Moates programmer is the better tool? Or another? Plan on some other small mods such as edlebrock intake, larger throttlebodies, C.A.I. piped up to a highrise cowl induction hood, shift kit, possible gear swap ( if 33's even warrant that) its been suggested that i just get a hi po ecu preprogrammed to my specs but i dunno whats best. All i know is i love tinkerin with my truck lol
#6
Air system is one thing, I had many failings with that on my 86 F150 and when I had to get rebuilt heads I had them block the ports. The final straw for me was that the shed I had all the parts stored in till I could get around to fixing it caught fire and most of the stuff was trash.
Now for EGR. There's no reason not to run it if you have the provisions. You will impact your gas mileage, I know because my tube is broke on my F150 between the EGR valve and the port on the manifold and I have it disabled. I've lost about 1 to 1.5mpg. At some point I'll fix it but my cousin has the truck right now and it's kind of out of sight, out of mind.
And BTW it's the 351W not 351M. They stopped with the M in 83.
Now for EGR. There's no reason not to run it if you have the provisions. You will impact your gas mileage, I know because my tube is broke on my F150 between the EGR valve and the port on the manifold and I have it disabled. I've lost about 1 to 1.5mpg. At some point I'll fix it but my cousin has the truck right now and it's kind of out of sight, out of mind.
And BTW it's the 351W not 351M. They stopped with the M in 83.
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BlueOvalRage
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
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08-27-2010 03:26 PM
SwampDonkey4x4
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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04-23-2008 10:36 PM