Had my first diesel for 2 weeks. New radiator and coolant flush last week.

200k miles, 2004 f250 6.0L with an egr delete added in 2010. New oil cooler in 2011.

Drove 30 miles and had mechanic read eot and ect.

Measurements at idle. Eot 210, ect 190. 94 outside temp.

Should I be concerned? Mechanic wasn't, but he does not work on many of these.

What impact does readings at idle make? What impact does egr delete make?

Previous owner said egr delete was done. How can I prove it actually was done?

Will a international Restore flush clean out the oil cooler I'd they is a problem?

Thanks for any insight.

 

I would say 210 with out a load would be of concern, AC on my EOT goes to 205 and ECT 195, may need to look at thermo with a good chem flush,
what weight of Oil ? are you running, and do you have the recommended coolent? also make sure the fan senser is working with Gauge.

 

So, you are saying you run Eot of 205 and ect of 195 at idle with AC on?

My ac was on when he took the readings.

Running fleetrite international ec-1 elc coolant. Hadn't changed oil yet and just bought truck.

Mechanic flushed coolant system with Dawn prior to replacing radiator, thermostat, and wp last week. I'm considering flushing with Restore this weekend to help.

I'll be pulling a 24 ft camper in a few weeks, and in a little concerned. I don't have any gages. I'll try pulling the camper around fir about 45 minutes this weekend to see what it's going to do.

Any words of wisdom?

 

I do a lot of hot weather towing and here's my 2 cents.

First you need to buy a Scangauge-II. That way you can monitor what's going on under the hood and read any fault codes. It can tell you every reading the computer sees. A 20 degree delta is not horrible, but it's not great either. You want to be within 15 degrees. Any higher and you've got issues.

If an EGR Delete was done, there's a strong possibility you are not running a stock tune. That can cause higher ECT/EOT readings, but you still want that 15 degree or less spread.

Next step is a bypass coolant filter to trap any debris BEFORE it clogs your oil cooler. There are things like casting sand that will clog a good oil cooler.

I strongly suggest doing both of them before going on a road trip. You can do both for under $300 and they take an hour or less to install. They will save you from a ton of damage and thousands in repairs and are super easy to install.

I've never heard of using Dawn as a flush, but it is a great grease cutter. Hopefully some of the Techs will chime in on that.

Is there any gunk floating in your degas bottle or signs of it puking coolant?

I'm not a Tech, but I've spent enough on 6.0 repairs to put one thru school.

 

20* delta on ECT/EOT after a 30 mile drive is grounds for an oil cooler change. The OLD delta was 20* the NEW delta is 15*. There is NOTHING that will clean a plugged oil cooler successfully, but you need to do a serious system flush BEFORE you replace the oil cooler.

For your own protection and the health of your truck you need to find a mechanic that KNOWS the 6.0 Diesel inside and out. Your guy may be a top notch mechanic but he obviously doesn't know the 6.0 and you need one that does.

One of the best ways to find a competent 6.0 mechanic is to go here and ask for recommendations: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum145/

 

^^^^^
Great advice!

 

One thing I know, a good running 6.0 with a efficient oil cooler will pull down the oil temp to within a few degrees of the coolant temp within 5 minutes of getting off the highway, let alone driving to the mechanic and then idling long enough to let him connect up and take a reading. The difference in temps is one thing, but the way it performs under varying loads is also a good indicator of oil cooler efficiency. In general terms the temperature difference at idle is irrelevant, only the temp difference under load has relevance to a normal test reading.

Brian

 

Thanks, guys.

Brian, is the eot/ect higher or lower at idle?

RPM, you said do both? Do you mean coolant filter and scangageII? I've read where scangage has some limitations on the 2004 model. I don't remember what they are, but should I go with sgII anyway. I've order a cheap obd2 Bluetooth plug and will be downloading torque.

It sounds like the concensus is trying to clear the oil cooler with a Restore flush (two of three times) is a waste of time and $.

He is atop notch mechanic, and as honest as Jesus.

Thanks again.

 

Top notch or not, the 6L is *NOT* like other engines.
In the first few years EVEN the Ford techs struggled to learn the peculiarities of the 6L. AND the info on this forum is the result of ALL THAT EXPERIENCE gained, we have several TOP NOTCH Ford Techs who teach us (if WE listen ).

EVERY 6L owner should install an ODBII gauge reader (SG2, or newer apps). You MUST monitor your ECT/EOT on the highway fully warmed up.
Common easy baselining test, AFTER ECT/EOT are 190* (or higher) drive 65 MPH for 10 minutes flat/level terrain what is the delta at the end?
The standard is 15* delta, years ago it was 20*. Without an EGR Cooler, you don't risk causing it to fail, but it's not a healthy engine with a clogged oil cooler either.

Towing up a long grade WITH a trailer AND a clogged OIL cooler could cause your oil to get too hot and your engine to defuel causing you to pull over until it cools off. IF you have the SG2 (or equiv) you'd see the temps rising and be able to adjust/know what's happening.... Otherwise you have NO idea until the **IT hits the fan.

 

And if you blow an oil cooler you have one he***** mess to clean up.

 

Just remember when the AC is on usely the temp will go up slightly when testing the system with your gauge shut AC off, the other thing is too when high temp happens don't just shut the truck off let it Idle down a little ( cool down a few ) if the temp comes back down meeting ECT your ok in a sence ,If the temp stays high then you need to worrie. In your thread from everybody is great Advice BTW some guys have spoke of using Dawn, simple green, purple power, and using tap water for the main flush then around 25 gallons of distilled to get the tap out then a 50/50 you probably know that don't forget to pull the block plugs

 

(@Misky6.0) ...EVERY 6L owner should install an ODBII gauge reader (SG2, or newer apps). You MUST monitor your ECT/EOT on the highway fully warmed up.
Common easy baselining test, AFTER ECT/EOT are 190* (or higher) drive 65 MPH for 10 minutes flat/level terrain what is the delta at the end?
The standard is 15* delta, years ago it was 20*....
_________________________________________
I just purchased a Dashboss and this information is very helpful for me in trying to figure out 'what' to measure. I searched the forums - are there any suggestions of additional items 6L owners need to monitor via a gauge reader?
This site is a great resource, many thanks to all - David

 

Just to be clear: you don't need both a scangauge II and the Torque Pro app (the one that costs $4.95). Either one will allow you to monitor almost everything you need to, but Torque is easier to set up and does a lot more. It's well worth the $20 total investment.

I think getting a coolant filter is a good thing no matter what, but before you do more than that, follow the guidance Misky6.0 gave and do the highway test before worrying much more. The EOT will be higher than the ECT once up to temp. Check out one of our site sponsors: Xtreme Diesel as I think they have the best coolant filter value out there. Do a search for coupon codes before you buy as they often have discounts and they ship fast and free.

I'll see if I can find a good list of everything to monitor for you and dbeckwit -- it's come up a lot...

 

Here's a couple threads:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tal-sq-ft.html

and for the Droids:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12923494

Also: do searches on Dashboss and Torque and you'll get a wealth of info....

 

@diesel_dan - many thanks this is most helpful. It also seems that I need to spend some time learning the forum search function. Take care, David