This is what happens when I'm waiting on parts; I poke around and find other problems to fix..

My transfer case has been marking it's territory and it looks like the front output seal may be the culprit.

Has anyone replaced this without dropping the case from the truck? Any instructions, pictures, advice or warnings would be appreciated.

And yes, this is a Spicer (Dana) 24 in a 1963 F100 and it is factory original (despite what some parts books may say). My service manual agrees but doesn't go into detail as to the repair..

Thanks for playing..

 

Changed the front and rear seals both on my 66 f100 4x4 (Dana 20?) and jeep (dana 18) . Drain the fluid before you start. I was even able to get a repair sleeve for the front one. Just have to re torque the nut to spec. After you put the yoke back on put a bead of RTV (they sell one that is for axle / trans oil) then put the washer followed by the nut. They tend to leak around the splines.

 

Ford truck parts catalog doesn't refer to it as such, it's Spicer # 300205-5. Notice parts list 17A / At about this same time, Dana purchased Spicer.

Left 2nd lower: 17A begins towards bottom of page.

 

It looks like the oil seal is C0TT-7B215-A
Rock Auto shows the National part number of 470898

Can anyone verify if that's correct?

 

Ford: COTT-7B215-A - Spicer/Dana: 24-463-11 or 24-463-12

Ford truck parts catalog Cross Reference: Manufacturer to Ford - Ford to Manufacturer part numbers do not list National or Chicago Rawhide seal numbers for COTT-7B215-A

 

You do not have to drop the transfer case to replace the seals, you may as well order a yoke sleeve as I am sure you will need one.

The least expensive place I found them was rockauto.com but they were on sale when I bought them and I ordered every sleeve and seal front to back to justify the shipping.

The next is Kaman, a local bearing supplier, I am sure there is one in Wichit but the sleeve was expensive due to freight charges. The next was Autozone, then Oriellys then Napa.

If my memory is correct, you will need a 1 1/16 socket, you will need to pull a cotter pin before removing the nut and when you put it back on, be sure to line up the cotter pin holes with the open part of the yoke. Installing sleeves are easy, just remember to remove the flat driving plate after installation. It has a groove for easy removal.

The picture shows the sleeve with the driving plate still attached.

 

it is correct. see my previous post for a suggestion, you most likely will need a sleeve for the yoke....