has anybody shaved the drip rails on there 66
#1
07-11-2013, 08:40 PM
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: junction city or
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#2
07-11-2013, 09:23 PM
This is on a '63
User is davewave649
Here is his build thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-thread-2.html
I could have sworn he had more pics up.
Here is his album
1963 F100 Wrongbed Photos by davewave649 | Photobucket
I think it looks pretty decent. Not sure if I would want to do it though if you get alot of rain in your area though.
User is davewave649
Here is his build thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-thread-2.html
I could have sworn he had more pics up.
Here is his album
1963 F100 Wrongbed Photos by davewave649 | Photobucket
I think it looks pretty decent. Not sure if I would want to do it though if you get alot of rain in your area though.
#3
09-11-2013, 10:19 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Loveland, CO
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Just finished shaving drip rails from a 1966 F100
So i just finished shaving the drip rails. It is pretty simple if you can weld sheet metal.
I would recommend removing the windshield I would guess it would have taken me twice as long with the glass installed. It took 7.5 hours from start to finish with the windshield removed.
I used a 4.5 inch cutoff wheel on my grinder. The blade has to be changed after it gets to be about 3.5 inches or it will angle into the cab. The most important thing is to leave about 1/16 of the drip rail on the cab then go back and grind it flush to the cab. If you do it right you will be able to grind 2 inches off and stitch weld it then grind the next 2 inches and weld. This keeps the top from separating from the rest of the cab. Once this is done you grind your welds go back a weld anything missed grind again and it is done.
The most time consuming is to get the door openings perfect I used a flap disc on my grinder to run along the lower edge of the upper door opening. This took about an hour per side. I put three coats of slick sand down blocked it and it is ready to prime and paint. Do not forget to remove the old drip check (caulk) from the upper door opening and apply new.
http://fasthotrods.com/index.php?vie...lery&Itemid=63
I would recommend removing the windshield I would guess it would have taken me twice as long with the glass installed. It took 7.5 hours from start to finish with the windshield removed.
I used a 4.5 inch cutoff wheel on my grinder. The blade has to be changed after it gets to be about 3.5 inches or it will angle into the cab. The most important thing is to leave about 1/16 of the drip rail on the cab then go back and grind it flush to the cab. If you do it right you will be able to grind 2 inches off and stitch weld it then grind the next 2 inches and weld. This keeps the top from separating from the rest of the cab. Once this is done you grind your welds go back a weld anything missed grind again and it is done.
The most time consuming is to get the door openings perfect I used a flap disc on my grinder to run along the lower edge of the upper door opening. This took about an hour per side. I put three coats of slick sand down blocked it and it is ready to prime and paint. Do not forget to remove the old drip check (caulk) from the upper door opening and apply new.
http://fasthotrods.com/index.php?vie...lery&Itemid=63
#4
09-11-2013, 11:33 PM
Personally, I think if I was going to consider shaving the drip rails, especially on the taller '64-66 cab, I would figure out a way to continue the detail shown on the rear part of the door opening, up and over the door in place of the drip rail. Perhaps even continue the detail around the top of the windshield. Maybe welding on a piece of 1/4 or 3/8" flat bar after the drip rail is shaved would work. Shaving the drip rail completely just looks too "bald" to me......JMHO 
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