Hood hinges for 65'-66' ?
#1
#3
1961/66 F100/1100 / 1967/69 F/T800/1000.
There are some available NOS, but the last MSRP & dealer cost prices were outrageous.
Right: $825.33/$550.22 // Left: $350.24/$233.49.
#5
This was FoMoCo's last MSRP for the right hinge, dealer net cost: $550.22.
What a Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor would ask in today's world, I dunno. Dealers obsolete parts are usually "written off" within a year.
Dealers could return a certain percentage of parts, based on the dollar cost of what they bought the previous year. FoMoCo's program was called PIPP (Parts Inventory Protection Plan).
There were 4 books: Code 1, Code 2, Code 3, Code 4. It was labor intensive, small parts placed in a box, quantity of each had to be noted, PIPP label on box, box number had to be noted for each code.
Bulky parts like fenders, hoods, cylinder heads, bell housings and etc had to have a PIPP label with the code number on it.
Dealers in small cities/towns didn't have the personnel, so PIPP had to be performed on off hours. Since personnel weren't paid for off hours, many dealers didn't bother.
Local dealer: El Monte Ford hadn't returned parts for over 30 years, when an obsolete Ford parts dealer bought them all in the 1980's, it took two semi loads to haul them away.
What a Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor would ask in today's world, I dunno. Dealers obsolete parts are usually "written off" within a year.
Dealers could return a certain percentage of parts, based on the dollar cost of what they bought the previous year. FoMoCo's program was called PIPP (Parts Inventory Protection Plan).
There were 4 books: Code 1, Code 2, Code 3, Code 4. It was labor intensive, small parts placed in a box, quantity of each had to be noted, PIPP label on box, box number had to be noted for each code.
Bulky parts like fenders, hoods, cylinder heads, bell housings and etc had to have a PIPP label with the code number on it.
Dealers in small cities/towns didn't have the personnel, so PIPP had to be performed on off hours. Since personnel weren't paid for off hours, many dealers didn't bother.
Local dealer: El Monte Ford hadn't returned parts for over 30 years, when an obsolete Ford parts dealer bought them all in the 1980's, it took two semi loads to haul them away.
#6
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#9
Schoo, yes, I believe those are the ones. Hard to tell but if those came off a 61-66, than yes. They look correct from the small pic. I tried blowing it up but it just gets fuzzzzzzzzzy.
I picked up a set off a 65 the other day but after I got them home and mounted them to a wall section and after bolting a long metal bar I made to operate the hinge like the hood would do - it looks like the rivet points are just as worn out as the ones I wanted to replace. I have a few spring I've collected over the yrs which I think are still good, but all the hinges I have found, have the same problem - metal at the rivet points are ENLARGED. So, just replacing the rivets with new or even larger ones, would just be a pain in the back side. At one time, I ground off the rivet heads and pulled the hinges apart, only to find that the holes the rivets went through, were SO out of round - elongated very bad.
Two things will let you know if a hinge is going south or already there.
Bad springs = hood won't stay open.
Bad hinges = close the hood to about one foot from being close all the way. Grab either the left or right front corner of the hood and pull a push the hood towards you and away to see how much movement there is. You can't do that with a good hinge. More movement - more worn out rivet joints.
AND, replacing springs can be a very dangerous job. I know this first hand. Doing stuff like that these days, I will always wear a full face shield as well as safety glasses. I just don't heal like I did when I was younger.
I move slower...
I picked up a set off a 65 the other day but after I got them home and mounted them to a wall section and after bolting a long metal bar I made to operate the hinge like the hood would do - it looks like the rivet points are just as worn out as the ones I wanted to replace. I have a few spring I've collected over the yrs which I think are still good, but all the hinges I have found, have the same problem - metal at the rivet points are ENLARGED. So, just replacing the rivets with new or even larger ones, would just be a pain in the back side. At one time, I ground off the rivet heads and pulled the hinges apart, only to find that the holes the rivets went through, were SO out of round - elongated very bad.
Two things will let you know if a hinge is going south or already there.
Bad springs = hood won't stay open.
Bad hinges = close the hood to about one foot from being close all the way. Grab either the left or right front corner of the hood and pull a push the hood towards you and away to see how much movement there is. You can't do that with a good hinge. More movement - more worn out rivet joints.
AND, replacing springs can be a very dangerous job. I know this first hand. Doing stuff like that these days, I will always wear a full face shield as well as safety glasses. I just don't heal like I did when I was younger.
I move slower...
#11
Check this place out, they will rebuild your hinges. I'm sure you can find NOS springs, I did for my truck. My hinges only required a little modification not a rebuild. So I worked my put NOS springs on them and there fine now. While I was looking for better hinges I found this place.
Wilson Antique Car Parts
1067 Clearview Drive
Forest, VA 24551
434-258-2606
E-mail : Willie@hoodhingerepair.com
Wilson Antique Car Parts
1067 Clearview Drive
Forest, VA 24551
434-258-2606
E-mail : Willie@hoodhingerepair.com
#12
#13
#14
How are people gonna be able to find NOS springs without the part number? Would you trust a spring part number listed in an ebay ad to be correct?
Most ebay sellers haven't a single clue what parts fit and think EVERY part number with a T as the 3rd digit in the prefix is for an F100.
Several years ago, someone posted a link to an ebay ad. Clueless seller listed C6TZ-18813-A antenna kit, said it's for a 1966 F100. WRONG! It's for a 1966/77 BRONCO!
Another link was posted for a different ebay ad. Clueless seller listed C5TZ-9A758-F accelerator cable for a 1965 F100. WRONG! It's 34.06" long for a 1965 N500/600 240/300 I-6!
Most ebay sellers haven't a single clue what parts fit and think EVERY part number with a T as the 3rd digit in the prefix is for an F100.
Several years ago, someone posted a link to an ebay ad. Clueless seller listed C6TZ-18813-A antenna kit, said it's for a 1966 F100. WRONG! It's for a 1966/77 BRONCO!
Another link was posted for a different ebay ad. Clueless seller listed C5TZ-9A758-F accelerator cable for a 1965 F100. WRONG! It's 34.06" long for a 1965 N500/600 240/300 I-6!
#15
The one thing Ive noticed as to the hinges is that even NOS ones have at time a lot of slop which equates to twisting when the hinge is opened or closed..and thus the hinge either would appear bad when loaded with the spring and used with the rear kicking up a bit. Ive been fortunate enough to find some decent ones in yards..I always check for the amount of twist or looseness in them...looseness...whether the hood closes nice or not...I pass them by...Good heavy stick type grease is the hinges best friend..and there are alot of pivot/friction points.
- cs65
- cs65
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dsrtjeeper
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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10-23-2012 07:46 PM