Wiring in Ignition Switch in 1966 F100
#1
Wiring in Ignition Switch in 1966 F100
I picked up a 66 F100 from an auction recently. The ignition switch had been stolen out of it, so I used a jumper to the coil to get it home. At some point there was a generic switch wired in incorrectly. I finally got all my parts in the mail to install a replacement factory style switch (and door locks), and after spending the last couple of hours digging through wiring diagrams, I'm still not 100% on what goes to what.
Yellow
Black
Orange w white stripe
Red w blue stripe
Red w green stripe - plugs in to orange wire
Yellow w brown(?) stripe - has a Ford PN printed on it
Black w blue(?) stripe attached to brown wire
From what I've read, the Red/blue will go to the S terminal on the switch, the yellow to the B terminal, the center post is for accessories, and not sure which would go to the C terminal, and what the hell all the other wires go to.
At least this truck has all factory wiring, not a rats nest of red that so many older trucks end up with. Hoping someone here has some info on what plugs into what. Thanks!
Yellow
Black
Orange w white stripe
Red w blue stripe
Red w green stripe - plugs in to orange wire
Yellow w brown(?) stripe - has a Ford PN printed on it
Black w blue(?) stripe attached to brown wire
From what I've read, the Red/blue will go to the S terminal on the switch, the yellow to the B terminal, the center post is for accessories, and not sure which would go to the C terminal, and what the hell all the other wires go to.
At least this truck has all factory wiring, not a rats nest of red that so many older trucks end up with. Hoping someone here has some info on what plugs into what. Thanks!
#2
Well, getting out there made me feel kinda dumb for asking. I installed the Yellow wire and Red w Green to their respective posts, and realized all the wires with the factory installed eyelets on them would have to go to the accessories post.
Now I'm just left with the Red w. blue stripe wire to figure where it goes, shouldn't be difficult.
Now I'm just left with the Red w. blue stripe wire to figure where it goes, shouldn't be difficult.
#4
Here's a diagram for a 67.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi...ing-gauges.jpg
The yellow wire is the battery wire that supplies power to the switch.
Red/blue is the wire to the starter solenoid.
Red/Green is power to the coil via a resistor. The wire 262 feeds the coil from the solenoid(resistor bypass).
The black/green stripe wire feeds ignition on circuits in the fuse box.
The black wire feeds voltage to the regulator to tell it to bring the alternator online, and also feeds power to the instrument cluster.
I am not sure about the other wires you have pictured. What I would do is get a small battery charger(10amp or less) and and hook the black lead to a good metal ground on the truck, and start touching the other leads and see what works and what doesn't. You can also take the battery cable off, and hook the battery charger to the battery cable and use it instead of the battery. That way if something is wrong, the circuit breaker in the charger will kick off instead of melting any wires.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi...ing-gauges.jpg
The yellow wire is the battery wire that supplies power to the switch.
Red/blue is the wire to the starter solenoid.
Red/Green is power to the coil via a resistor. The wire 262 feeds the coil from the solenoid(resistor bypass).
The black/green stripe wire feeds ignition on circuits in the fuse box.
The black wire feeds voltage to the regulator to tell it to bring the alternator online, and also feeds power to the instrument cluster.
I am not sure about the other wires you have pictured. What I would do is get a small battery charger(10amp or less) and and hook the black lead to a good metal ground on the truck, and start touching the other leads and see what works and what doesn't. You can also take the battery cable off, and hook the battery charger to the battery cable and use it instead of the battery. That way if something is wrong, the circuit breaker in the charger will kick off instead of melting any wires.
#5
Here's a diagram for a 67.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi...ing-gauges.jpg
The yellow wire is the battery wire that supplies power to the switch.
Red/blue is the wire to the starter solenoid.
Red/Green is power to the coil via a resistor. The wire 262 feeds the coil from the solenoid(resistor bypass).
The black/green stripe wire feeds ignition on circuits in the fuse box.
The black wire feeds voltage to the regulator to tell it to bring the alternator online, and also feeds power to the instrument cluster.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi...ing-gauges.jpg
The yellow wire is the battery wire that supplies power to the switch.
Red/blue is the wire to the starter solenoid.
Red/Green is power to the coil via a resistor. The wire 262 feeds the coil from the solenoid(resistor bypass).
The black/green stripe wire feeds ignition on circuits in the fuse box.
The black wire feeds voltage to the regulator to tell it to bring the alternator online, and also feeds power to the instrument cluster.
Still need to hook up the rest of the wires, but the weather just jumped from 80 degrees to sudden rain and hail. That's SE Idaho in July for ya.
Waiting for it to pass, and I'll be getting back out there and into it.
Also, does anyone have any idea why the in-cab light would be on all the time when the battery is hooked up? There don't appear to be any buttons in the door jams to activate it, and I can't seem to find a switch anywhere. I'll dig into it more after the ignition switch is said and done, but just wondering if anyone else had dealt with it.
#6
#7
Here's the 67 diagram for the domelight. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi...rtesylight.jpg
It shows door switches. But back then, sometimes these circuits were options. See if you have holes for the switches in the door jambs. I would think if you have a mounted domelight, you would have holes for the switches in the cab door jambs, even if you do not have the wiring to support it. But, maybe your domelight is not factory. I am not up on those year trucks much.
I remember my old 53 had the optional cab(I forget what they called it) and it had a door lock for the pass side door. That was a option back then believe it or not.
Also, if you are not familiar with these old vehicles, get ready to be confused about your parking lights. A lot of the older vehicles turned the front park lights off when the headlights are being used. It's normal, and don't let the young guy at the inspection station fail you for it.
It shows door switches. But back then, sometimes these circuits were options. See if you have holes for the switches in the door jambs. I would think if you have a mounted domelight, you would have holes for the switches in the cab door jambs, even if you do not have the wiring to support it. But, maybe your domelight is not factory. I am not up on those year trucks much.
I remember my old 53 had the optional cab(I forget what they called it) and it had a door lock for the pass side door. That was a option back then believe it or not.
Also, if you are not familiar with these old vehicles, get ready to be confused about your parking lights. A lot of the older vehicles turned the front park lights off when the headlights are being used. It's normal, and don't let the young guy at the inspection station fail you for it.
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#8
Unfortunately unable to locate the thread with pic's of the wiring to the ign. switch; meantime, came across this thread may find helpful pending other member's input.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1966-f100.html
If not helpful, suggest trying the 'advanced search' menu and limit the topic to the 61-66 forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1966-f100.html
If not helpful, suggest trying the 'advanced search' menu and limit the topic to the 61-66 forum.
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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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05-14-2012 08:51 AM