Hi folks. Long time reader, first time posting. I posted this in the van forum a couple of days ago, but got no response yet. It should be just as relevant here, and it seems there is more traffic here. I'll delete the other thread if protocol dictates it.

This is driving me nuts.
1989 E-150, 5.0L AOD A9J ecm
After sitting for 2 or 3 weeks, I couldn't get the van started. After replacing a bad main fuel pump, I couldn't get it started despite 40psi at the rail.
So I decided to check the timing, and sure enough, it was way off.
This thing will not run at 10*BTDC, spout removed. It idles & runs okay at about 25-30 btdc, but runs hot. I've checked the harmonic damper and the rubber ring looks intact, outer ring doesn't budge if I try to move it with both hands (silver sharpie line across ring/hub hasn't moved), and I replaced the timing chain with a Cloyes true double roller less than 10K ago (timing light shows a very steady line/tight chain.
I can't run it like this because it mostly runs like crap, pings and stalls out. If I retard the timing, it won't run at all. No trouble codes except a neutral safety switch, which I think I can ignore.
The drift pin and distributor's cam gear are intact but I swapped out the distributor from the 86 anyway, with the same results.

I thought about swapping out the ECM, but my other van is an 86, so I figured I'd throw it by you guys before I start stabbing in the dark & throwing money at this when I'm stumped. Any ideas?? TIA
Brian

 

I would check TDC of #1. Bring the #1 piston up on compression stroke to TDC and see where the timing pointer points to. Using a straw or wooden dowel in the plug hole may help, as will removing the other plugs..but I'm sure on the van, that's easier said than done. Disable the fuel pump or disconnect the ignition coil to aid in jump bumping the engine over with starter. Or use a socket, ext., Breaker bar or rachet.

You can also remove the distributor cap, mark the pointer at #1 TDC, and start slowly turning the crank several degrees clockwise, then back several degrees, checking after reaching TDC of #1 piston, compression stroke.

Hope this helped.

 

Thanks for the reply. I will double check exact location of TDC, but yeah, not easily done on a van with A/C and all that other crap in the way. (Not to mention the fact that I have a Good Humor horizontal freezer framed in & mounted behind the driver seat, which is necessary to remove the console/subwoofer between the seats, which has to be removed to access the engine cover. And even then, #1 cyl is hard to access.

But even with the #1tdc question aside, I can't seem to find any happy spot for the distributor without running into spark knock when I step on it. And this didn't happen before I parked it, so I don't think it's carbon build-up. Guess I have some work ahead of me in this 3 digit heat...

 

Well I checked the damper for accuracy and it seems ok. For the sake of any van owners, I should point out here that I used cylinder #6 from the front of the vehicle to avoid having to tear apart the interior to (barely) access #1. (just to clarify, #1 & #6 are both in lock step on the crankshaft with the 302'sm firing order 15426378)
So once again it wouldn't run at 10 degrees before, so I set the dist where it seemed to run best and took it out for a drive. At first it ran but not great. If I stepped on it, it would backfire, but if I eased on the throttle it would run halfway decent.
But when it got up to temp and I got on the freeway, it stalled out and refused to run. I couldn't get it to run more than a few seconds at a time after that and ended up having to tow it home.
I'm starting to wonder if I have a couple of things that are not right. (maybe the catalytic converter is clogged, although I don't smell it. I'll be swapping it today if the 86 exhaust is the same)
Also, even though the engine and radiator are getting hot, the temp gauge registers at the cold end of the scale. It is getting power, as I can see it go from the far left "off" position to the first line indicating "cold". Before all this mysterious crap it would operate at the halfway point unless pulling a long hill.
Help...I gotta drive this thing 130 miles tomorrow.

 

Exhaust systems look very similar except for the air pump tube just before the main cat. Is this an issue?

 

Anyone know if I can just eliminate the air tube with a non-air tube type exhaust system?