I have a 2006 F450 and its only had a few issues. Ive had to replace the oil cooler and egr and the high pressure pump and branch tubes. Now its having trouble starting and Im being told maybe fuel rails or o rings. My question is I don't want to get into truck payments but don't want to be broke down all the time. Do the problems ever end on these motors.

Thanks

Joe

 

There's a few little glitches to work through but they can be reliable trucks

There's these things called dummy plugs on a high pressure oil route and it is very common for those to go out they should have been replaced with the standpipes

One of the best things you can do is to get a gauge And learn how to read the numbers and learn what to watch for:

Then you can start studying app on reliability with modifications such as coolant filters

 

So go through the text folder and read up on the reliability mods

But with a gauge you can pretty well see all of the problems coming and address them before the truck is broke down on the side of the road

 

The problems end, but PROPER maintenance is absolutely necessary, as is proper diagnosis.

Is it having trouble starting when it's cold or when it's hot? If it is hot, when did they replace the HPOP and did they use the updated STC fitting? If it's cold, do you have a reader or a DMM to check the FICM voltages?

What testing did the shop perform that they say your fuel rails and/or 'O' rings need to be replaced.

 

Blades what kind of gauge are you talking about. My truck is stock. When the oil cooler and erg went out I had it fixed at Ford then found out theres a delte kit. But I figured I would wait to delete those when they go bad again.
Thanks for replying.

Joe

 

+1 for Benny's suggestions.

Did the STC fitting fail catastrophically? Is that why the branch tubes and HPOP were replaced?

Who did the repair work? Did they do any other work? Doing it yourself or finding a great Tech is very helpful on the pocketbook!

Monitoring the truck can help catch little things before they become big things for sure! I include a fuel pressure monitor, an EGT sensor, and even a coolant degas pressure gauge part of the "essential" package!

What are your maintenance practices? They will play a HUGE role in your "6.0L experience". Oil changes - 5000 miles. Use the proper viscosity oil and OEM filters. 10,000 - 15,000 miles for changing fuel filters (again OEM filters). Don't forget the 30,000 transmission flushes and external filter change. Maintain your coolant properly - even if you switch to a more "robust" ELC coolant. Don't forget that brake fluid, power steering fluid, and differential fluid all need periodic flushes also.

After you get the high pressure oil system squared away (a gauge system and FTE can help you do that), there are a few things to consider ......

FICM upgrades - $350 (or more if you want the high-end stuff). FICMrepair.com is VERY good.

Fuel pressure monitor and possibly some upgrades (starting with a cheap regulator spring that makes a difference in many engines)

Alternator upgrade. Lots of posts on it. I recommend you do some searches, but the OEM alternator is weak, too weak IMO.

Hope this helps.

 

Chewed its hard starting in the morning and gets worse when its warm.The high pressure pump has less than 12k on it. I have no gauges or know what to do with them. The shop that did the pump gave me those maybe the issues but they are going to work on it in the morning . The truck does get its oil changed every 5k and all other works at factory intravalls.
What has happened is its been hard starting and when i first would go on the road in the mornings it would be real rough and like skip. So i started driving through the neighborhood before the main road. Yesterday I was running mostly interstate and was getting low on fuel. I dont use the fuel gauge because it has a larger aftermarket tank so I run 270 miles and fill it. The truck was getting between 10 and 12 mpg in town and 13 highway but has dropped about 2 mpg. Anyway I knew I could go at least 18 miles before fuel so I stopped at the store. When I tried to leave it wouldn't start. I put 5 gallons on fuel in and it took forever but finally started. I took it to fill and it only took 17 gallons so I had 12 gallons still. This morning it started as slow but did start. Sorry to be long and thanks for helping

 

Welcome to FTE, and try to stay with OEM oil and fuel Filters make sure the oil cap is OEM and not after market, in the tech folders theres a lot of info . the Gauges that Blades was talking about Scan Gauge ,160 cheaper on line dash boss theres others that Im not use to but what they do is read live data from all the sensers eot ect trans Its a must have tool to Monitor, when was the last fuel filter change? and do run an fuel additive like diesel kleen ,howes etc

 

I would be looking at the FICM voltage pretty quickly, and I would still like to know the answers to the questions posted about the STC fitting, what shop did the work (indy or Ford), OEM filters?, etc ..............

 

You want to keep money in your pocket then watch the mechanic Better


Or Better Yet Get a NEW Mechanic

My Fuel injector Orings Leaked ------ It Started Fine

Ran Rough till warm but started

I think they "Mechanic" misdiagnosed

Unless its totally Pouring Fuel and Hydrolocked is why it wont start from a Injector oring/inject "Fuel Rails^^^^"

Maybe Dummey Plug IDK its a Fast test to get a General Idea Fast with a Gauge


Personaly you haven't give enough info yet to Diagnose a specific part yet

this where the SGII comes in and some other stuff

 

[quote=bismic;13293193]I would be looking at the FICM voltage pretty quickly, quote]


This is Very High Proirity ^^^

 

If you have an Android phone or tablet, then get a bluetooth OBD2 reader off Amazon (can be as low as $35) and download Torque ($5) and you can get FICM voltages, as well as your ICP pressures - these will be critical information. If you have iOS devices, get Dashboss ($165).

Also, you could just do this - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html - that is the FICM testing procedure, and this is your main suspect at this moment.

You might be able to find another user in your area who is very knowledgeable and helpful too...

 

Sorry this is so late I just picked the truck up. According to the mechanic it was the Orings on the #1 injector. I haven't ran it a lot but the power is for sure back. I did let her get good and hot then shut her down for about 30 minutes (the same as the night she wouldn't start) and then started right up. It also does have the updated STC fitting and I asked to check the voltage for the FICM and he told me it was good.
I looked at the dash boss and downloaded the app on my iPad and plan to buy the kit. The 2006 6.0 is my work truck I also have a 2008 with 6.4. Will the dash boss work on both trucks or do I need one for each. Thanks for all the replys and help.

Joe

 

I'm certain that both gauges will, you may have to change the engine size and a few more things to read right. thanks for posting the out come