Good Morning Ford Folks,
I recently replaced my ailing sloppy factory steering box with a red-head steering box. I love it; it's tight and responds well however I feel as though ever since I did the "repair" I'm finding my steering to be almost as "sloppy".

I use that word loosely as I don't have a much better way to describe it. Although I am constantly switching back between my car and truck (my car has night tight close ratio rack&pinion steering) it's hard for me to truly distinguish if it's just me not being used to recirc. ball versus r&p or if it really is sloppy...OR if now that I fixed the sloppy box other problems are being amplified. SO I figured I'd poke around and see what others may think (there are times I am just crazy...and other times I think I'm just crazy and eventually I find out I wasn't wrong)

Anyway...as far as I can tell by my own accords, the front end it pretty tight. No bearing slop, tie rods ok, ball joints ok (they've been replaced at some point, doesn't mean they can't be bad though) and I wouldn't describe my issue as the death wobble so I think that kind of rules out the front differential bracket bushings.

One thought I had was maybe my shocks are bad. Bad shocks can affect steering right? At least on an un-smooth road or bumpy road. I know I'm in need of shocks so I think this shall be my next "investment". Does anyone has a suggestion on an inexpensive brand they have purchased? In past vehicles I just went right for the KYB gas-adjusts however at $40 a pop, that's a little out of my price range these days. Any thoughts on a $20 parts store shock? or are they just a waste of $$$$. I hate throwing good money after bad and if investing in a set of KYB's is the way then I'll bite the bullet and do them in pairs over time.

Any other thoughts on why my steering might feel a little loose? How about a steering shock absorber or are those just for lifted trucks?

Thanks,

 

The 20 dollar parts store shocks are about as useful as the factory Motorcrafts, not so good. Check Rockauto for occasional deals on KYB or try to wait until you can get them. Just turned about 95k on my gas-adjusts and they're about toast all of a sudden but 95k is pretty good.
Steering dampeners are always a good idea and not just for lifted trucks. A single with the mounting hardware for your truck would be worthwhile. I replaced my motorcraft with a Bilstein (around 100 bucks) and the improvement was noteworthy. IIRC it has a lifetime warranty too.

 

Do you have a part number for the bilstein? I'd love to put them on my truck just haven't had much time to look into it. Mines an f250 with big tires would it help any? Or should I wait and just seem what I'm going to do about a lift?

 

Need your year and whether its 2wd or 4wd for specific number but heres the number for an 08 F250 w/4wd
<table width="580" bgcolor="#ffffff" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr bgcolor="#e0ebf1"><td height="25" align="left" colspan="2"> Manufacturer: Bilstein</td><td align="center" colspan="3"> Brand: Steering Stabilizer</td></tr><tr><td bgcolor="#92b2ca" colspan="5"></td></tr><tr bgcolor="#e0ebf1"><td width="100" align="center">Part Number</td><td width="100" align="center">Position</td><td width="200" align="left" colspan="3">Package Qty</td></tr><form name="ORDER_FORM" action="http://www.shockwarehouse.com/cart/cart.cfm" method="post"></form><input name="sku" type="hidden" value="24-158930"> <input name="selected_model" type="hidden" value="4000"> <input name="selected_year" type="hidden" value="2008"> <input name="multiadd" type="hidden" value="1"> <input name="option_check" type="hidden"> <tr valign="top"><td colspan="5"> </td></tr><tr><td width="20%" align="center" valign="top"> 24-158930</td><td width="20%" align="center" valign="top">Front</td><td width="20%" align="center" valign="top">1</td><td width="20%" align="center" valign="top">$83.32 each
Free Shipping
</td><td width="20%" align="center"><input width="62" height="22" type="image" src="../images/add.gif" border="0"></td></tr><tr valign="top"><td bgcolor="#f2f2f2" colspan="5">
And yes, it would help a lot. The Bilstein stabilizer is far superior to the Motorcraft supplied with the truck.
</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

Just remember that steering dampers are not for fixing sloppy steering. They are to absorb shocks to the steering, like when you hit a large rock with just one wheel. Installing one to "fix" sloppy steering is like putting electrical tape over a check engine light. For normal driving you shouldn't even need a steering damper.
Worn shocks can contribute to the slop, aside from the things you mentioned. As can worn tires, out of balance tires, loose fasteners in any steering components, worn bushings, etc.

 

the steering itself isn't sloppy. The new box feels tight as ever but I suspect there are other components causing what I would like to describe as a sloppy ride, including the driver who frequently switches between his new car and old truck. I'm like a hypochondriac but only when it comes to my vehicles. What would one call that? a hypo-truck-driac?

I'm sure the shocks are in need of replacement. Even if there is still a little life left in them that "little life" isn't very long so I might as well just do them.

Another thing I got to thinking about was anti-sway. What did ford use on these trucks to prevent body roll? I don't see a sway bar front or back. Were these options or something ford just didn't do? I can't remember if my powerstroker has a rear sway bar or not... I have a LOT of body roll which can also be bad body mounts...but that's a whole 'nother topic!

Thanks,
Al

 

sorry for the second reply here but in doing a little google research TireRack actually has KYB's at what I feel can be affordable. I'll just have to do them in pairs rather than all at once.

There are gas adjusts and there are monomax's. Anyone care to explain the difference? I read their description I'm just not getting the difference. Yea one is a mono tube and the other is a dual tube design. What the fudge does that mean? I'm not a total moron, just uninformed.

Thanks Again,

 

Dont quote me on this but the shows like trucks and gearz say changing to urethane sway bar bushings tighten things up. Mine came with a sway bar front and rear. Not sure if all do or not.

 

If you have a lot of body roll for whatever reason, that could a sloppy ride, but that should only come in to play when cornering, or making an emergency maneuver, not just general driving.
So are you saying it doesn't track very straight, a tendency to wander down the lane? So you don't have any excessive play in the steering wheel?

 

<table width="790" align="center" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr><td width="5" align="center" valign="top" bgcolor="#ffffff"> </td><td width="620" align="center" valign="top" bgcolor="#ffffff">
<table width="620" bgcolor="white" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr><td bgcolor="#000000" colspan="2"></td></tr><tr><td align="center" class="pageheaderbox" colspan="2">KYB Gasajust Shocks</td></tr><tr><td bgcolor="#000000" colspan="2"></td></tr><tr><td align="center" colspan="2">
</td></tr><tr><td width="300" valign="top">KYB's Gasajust Shocks are designed to deliver maximum driving control and performance. Gasajust's higher gas pressure (280 psi) keeps tires glued to the road while its high strength monotube configuration provides extra-rugged durability and fade-free performance. Gasajusts feature a stiff, consistent valving. They are available for older cars and trucks as well as new ones. </td><td width="300" valign="top">

• Velocity-Sensitive valving
• Hardened chrome piston rods
• Monotube design
• Self sealing packing
• Check valve to eliminate foaming
• High-Pressure Nitrogen gas filled (280 psi)
• Iron pistons and guide rods
• Seamless tube body

</td></tr></tbody></table>
</td></tr></tbody></table>
<table width="620" bgcolor="white" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr><td width="300" valign="top">KYB MonoMax performance gas shocks. For hot trucks, sporty SUVs, and 4WDs. These shocks are engineered and designed to deliver performance and strength regular shocks don't have. These shocks have a vehicle specific valving for severe duty and handling. They help reduce squat under acceleration, helps eliminate braking nose dive, and helps control roll and pitch. These are the KYB Gasajust on steroids! Bigger and better. </td><td width="300" valign="top">

• High pressure gas design (280psi)
• Monotube design
• Hardened chrome 1/2 piston rod
• Seamless body cylinders and eye rings
• Floating piston
• Self-sealing packing
• Velocity-sensitive valving
• Large 46mm bore and piston

</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

The 95k shocks on my F250 are MonoMax if that helps. Still functional but I can feel a difference in the rebound/recovery.

 

Dang... That trucks almost twenty years newer then mine aha I have an 85 f350 4x4

I will look it up and see if it will fit though thanks man

 

Your radius arm bushings might be worn enough to decrease the caster angle, which would contribute to a "wandering" condition on a smooth road. There are only four bushings in the front end and they aren't expensive, so I would replace those before doing shocks. I know it made a difference in my 81 even with the old shocks.

 

I'm not always best with descriptions...nor words. I think you hit the nail on the head. It wanders. That's really the description I've been looking for (i swear I'm not a total moron). I can tell the steering itself is tight...maybe even one would call it too sensitive now but I like it. The jack-wagons at pepboys also didn't center my steering wheel like I asked so I have to have that fixed.

Anyway, what are the 4 bushings? I plan on keeping this truck for a while. I have a cap on the back and she's loaded with tools, my electronic goodies, etc. so I'm reluctant to just throw in the towel over some much needed maintenance. I just need to do it in steps.

What exactly do the radius arms do? I'm not totally ignorant, just not familiar with Fords so much. Even so my Powerstroker has a leaf spring front end, no radius arm. I do want to do the shocks at some point, maybe I'll wait and do the bushings first.

Thanks everyone for the input. I've been enlightened
Al C

 

I am having the same problem w/ my 86 F-250. The radius arms are the arms that connect from the axle just inside the wheel and go back and connect to a brkt on the frame rail. Where the arm goes thru the brkt there is a neoprene bushing on each side of the brkt. When these get old and loose there elasticity they can deffinately cause sloppy steering. Mine is a 2wd so am not sure about 4wd, but unless you have a moonbeam axle, I believe you also have axle beam pivot bushings. If these are worn they can also contribute to sloppy steering.

Steve

86 F-250, 2wd, std cab, long bed, 6.9L, C6, 3.55 ltd slip diff