My "new" 1997 F-350 CC Dually! Whoot!!
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#108
For the fuel heater delete, I used to always pull the plate out completely so all that was left in the bowl was the stand pipe. You will have to unscrew the stand pipe, which will require an extension and a crows foot. IIRC the standpipe was reverse thread, but someone who has done it recently needs to correct me on that. I haven't gone through a fuel bowl in about 5 years. LOL Anyways, pull the standpipe, pull the heater/plate, put the stand pipe back in, fuel filter back in... Done... 10 minute job if the stand pipe comes out ok. While your in there you can really clean out the bowl too.
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#110
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Southern West Virginia
Posts: 11,132
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Get on it!!!! Definitely get the simple and quick things done asap. The 6637 air filter, delete the fuel heater, and do an FPR shim.. Don't worry about the gauges until your getting ready to put a chip on it. You at least want gauges before a chip gets installed.
For the fuel heater delete, I used to always pull the plate out completely so all that was left in the bowl was the stand pipe. You will have to unscrew the stand pipe, which will require an extension and a crows foot. IIRC the standpipe was reverse thread, but someone who has done it recently needs to correct me on that. I haven't gone through a fuel bowl in about 5 years. LOL Anyways, pull the standpipe, pull the heater/plate, put the stand pipe back in, fuel filter back in... Done... 10 minute job if the stand pipe comes out ok. While your in there you can really clean out the bowl too.
For the fuel heater delete, I used to always pull the plate out completely so all that was left in the bowl was the stand pipe. You will have to unscrew the stand pipe, which will require an extension and a crows foot. IIRC the standpipe was reverse thread, but someone who has done it recently needs to correct me on that. I haven't gone through a fuel bowl in about 5 years. LOL Anyways, pull the standpipe, pull the heater/plate, put the stand pipe back in, fuel filter back in... Done... 10 minute job if the stand pipe comes out ok. While your in there you can really clean out the bowl too.
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Not really needed, but they are still nice to have... Particularly for the trans temp gauge for you auto guys. I have gotten a stock truck with just a 6637 and 4" exhaust to 1100* EGTs before, so it would be nice to see EGTs, but in my mind, not needed when you haven't changed the fueling characteristics of it..
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So, any ideas? Hopefully not a $3,000 idea
#117
BB does the vibration seem to change based upon speed or does it do it sitting still as well? Do you feel it regardless of RPM? Do you feel the vibration in all gears (P, R, N, D)?
If you think it may be the flexplate, open the inspection cover on the bottom of the transmission (it's only a couple of little bolts) and see if you have any forward and back slop in the flexplate. Cracked flexplates are not all that common in these trucks, but they do happen.
If you think it may be the flexplate, open the inspection cover on the bottom of the transmission (it's only a couple of little bolts) and see if you have any forward and back slop in the flexplate. Cracked flexplates are not all that common in these trucks, but they do happen.
#118
BB does the vibration seem to change based upon speed or does it do it sitting still as well? Do you feel it regardless of RPM? Do you feel the vibration in all gears (P, R, N, D)?
If you think it may be the flexplate, open the inspection cover on the bottom of the transmission (it's only a couple of little bolts) and see if you have any forward and back slop in the flexplate. Cracked flexplates are not all that common in these trucks, but they do happen.
If you think it may be the flexplate, open the inspection cover on the bottom of the transmission (it's only a couple of little bolts) and see if you have any forward and back slop in the flexplate. Cracked flexplates are not all that common in these trucks, but they do happen.
To answer your questions, I only feel it when stopped and idling. As soon as any rpms are added, it goes away. It never increases with increased rpm. I did feel a tiny bit of vibration traveling down the highway at 65 this morning, but I am not sure if I am just getting paranoid and making stuff up. I do feel the vibration in all gears when sitting still ONLY. I think that is why I have not worried too much about it yet. I will definitely take the cover off tomorrow and see what I find.
It's hard to explain, but the reason I thought it might be the flexplate is that I hear the same sound (best I can recall) that I heard when my dual mass went out on my last '97. If you are sitting stopped and idling, it has a "wah wah" sound as it idles. The tach needle stays steady as well. It almost makes a sound like a slow-turning but unbalanced shaft? That probably doesn't help, but I don't know how else to describe it. The minute you hit the throttle to accelerate, it smooths out and drives beautifully. Hope that helps. Thanks a bunch for the input!
#119
Pull the cover and check the flexplate to be sure but I am willing to bet you're just feeling fluctuations in the idle of the engine because of the HP oil pressure changes as the IPR cycles open and closed at idle. Sometimes this can be an indication of a bad ICP or IPR, but the only way to know for sure is to get a scanner on it and see what the pressures are doing at idle.
Mine does the same thing. You're exactly right in describing it as a "wah wah wah" sound, or almost more of a feeling you can feel in the vibration of the engine. Only at idle, and it smooths out as soon as throttle is applied. I don't know if it is something to worry about or if it is just the nature of the beast.
Mine does the same thing. You're exactly right in describing it as a "wah wah wah" sound, or almost more of a feeling you can feel in the vibration of the engine. Only at idle, and it smooths out as soon as throttle is applied. I don't know if it is something to worry about or if it is just the nature of the beast.