Well guess that proves how new I am to the scene.

 

Hahaha, it's not a big deal, but that guy has made himself a very comfortable living by spreading half-truths and misinformation. He is kind of an inside joke around here...

 

Ahhhhh Mr Hewitt. Just be thankful you found this place instead of just using YouTube for help.

 

Hahahaha lololol

 

haha Todd!! When are you starting your build thread??

BB, looks like you stole my truck and painted it RED! Nice!!

 

I should go onto every one of his videos and post a link to the thread where we dissected his "top end oil change" video.
Or just a link to FTE in general saying "GO HERE FOR REAL INFO!" lol

 

This is actually the first mod I planned on doing here pretty soon. I need to look up the info on the part #'s. I can get the filters at work either from Baldwin or Donaldson. I know the part # for the base and how-to is on here somewhere....just gotta find it. I'll get the test strips today!

Now this is crazy! I actually had his website up in another tab when I read this!! I had been reading stuff on there since last night, but hadn't watched any videos yet. I believe that forums are way more reliable for info as it comes from real world users who have tried and tested just about everything and know what works. Needless to say, I closed that tab.

And yet another reason to close the tab!! Glad I didn't spend any time actually watching the videos.

Glenn!! Thanks for the compliment. I actually spent 2 hours reading through your entire thread the day before I went to make the purchase. I could not even begin to go where you went! I hope to at least start getting some stuff done in the next few months. I am almost afraid to do a Buzz test and things like that. I don't want to find major stuff until I have the $$ to put forward, which will be soon. Not that it runs like it needs anything, but I am sure with 180k it isn't perfect.

To Travis....wallet hidden

 

Not for a few more months. I start the new job July 8th, then I have to buy a new vehicle and we plan to pay off our debt. It's not a lot, but its still debt. Then I buy my turbo and ship it to a certain guy to mock up some pipes!
As soon as I post that I've bought a new ride, you can expect a thread to be started and parts will be torn apart.

 

BB, as said above, nice rig (I also like the red color), welcome a board to the best forum ever.

I actually recomend you, to watch those videos, just dont believe all what he said, but really, at least for me, I learned a lot of things of the PSD just washing the videos, and more if you are a DIYselver (spl?). Of course here this forum is the best MANUAL, a lot of masters and gurus, always.

 

Nice truck man,

This youtube guy is ridiculous.. idk how he is in business lol

 

That turned out to be a long thread, LOL! The thing is, I'm not the greatest wrencher but with the encouragement of this group I made it thru. Especially the head studs, valve springs and push rods. I was not sure about attempting them! I love the dually for pulling, not to take anything away for my F250 2wd, it did a great job also. I know what you mean about the buzz & contribution test, the first time I ever did that was after my truck was done and with all the new stuff, it passed.

 

Hewitt =

 

check coolant with SCA test strips and add SCA as needed.

Add a coolant filter for the hell of it.

Done with coolant and move on to the next project. lol

 

What is SCA anyway? Next project, which will require a lot of Coors, will be fluid changes.
Boring I know...

 

Cooling system maintenance
The cooling system on any diesel has special concerns. It's possible for the coolant to cavitate--produce tiny bubbles--that can with time cause pin holes throught the cylinder walls from the water jackets. For this there is an additive; Ford P/N FW-15 or FW-16, Fleetguard P/N DCA4; that needs to be maintained in the coolant. Generally this means installing 8 to 10 oz of the additive to the cooling system every 15000 miles. Another method is to monitor the cooling system with Fleetguard's DCA4 test kit P/N CC2602 or CC2602A. This measures the level of DCA4 in the system, then you add the amount of SCA/DCA as required to reach a nitrite level of 1.2-3.0 PPM. The cooling system should be drained (and flushed if you live in an area with especialy alkiline water) and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant/distilled or demineralized water and one pint of the additive for every two gallons of coolant/water at 30,000 miles. Use only a ethylene glycol-based coolant, preferably low-silicate.