So I am tired of messing with the 6.0. I am done with it. I am just going to buy a nice 04-08 Lariat F-150 with probably higher miles to get me through College.

I will be selling my 04 F-350 SRW short bed FX-4 Lariat Crew cab with the 6.0 and need to know about what I should be asking for it.

Truck has 165,xxx on the clock with a new (or rebuild) trans from ford at around 75K according to Oasis. I got 4 problem free years out of it before all the problems started. The straw that broke the camels back was Cyl #7.

Had an injector go bad, and before I knew it was even bad, it had already cooked the cylinder (over fueling, stuck open) and toasted the rings. Loss of compression and now a miss at idle. LOTS of blow by from the oil fill tube when open. I still drive it because I have no choice. Truck has EGR deleted and a new alternator among many other new parts.

That being said, It will clearly need an overhaul or just an engine replacement because of the compression loss (am I right?). So I cant ask what the truck is really worth.

Its a very pretty truck other than that. I was planning on asking $8000 with the Tonneau cover and paint matched lighted steps, or about $6500 without. Either way it comes with 2 sets of wheels and tires plus a spare. Am I in the right range, or too high/low?

This is not a "for sale" thread I know that is a different forum. I just need to know about how much to list it for.

Thanks guys and sorry for the lengthy post.

-Brian.

 

For me it's worth around $16K and needs around $12K in a new engine. I wouldn't pay over $2K - $4K for it. Sorry... Makes me sad to even write that.

Brian

 

A buddy of mine worked at a dealer with a tech who recently bought a non-running '04 KR with a just bad headgaskets for $2500. Not running they don't seem to go for much.

 

Yeah, just my luck.. I never should have touched this demon child truck. An expensive yard ornament. Never again will I buy a Ford diesel. One of the worst decisions I have ever made. I could probably get more for it just parting it out.

 

I fixed that for you.

 

Where are you and do you have pics of the truck?

 

How would you know an injector went bad?

 

98woody:

Had a Cyl #7 contribution code, and if memory serves me right an injector fault code for that cylinder as well. It has been a while since I had it diagnosed so I don't remember now. What I don't understand is, after I replaced that injector, it ran and idled perfect, but still smoked a tad. For a week.. Then back to lots of white/ blue ish smoke and a horrible idle.

I thought maybe something went wrong with torque, or a crush washer so I pulled that whole bank and checked them all. Found nothing wrong. Replaced all seals and crush washers on all 4 injectors, new retainers as well. I swapped the Cyl #7 and #1 injectors out to see if #1 would fault instead, but it didn't.

Put it all back together and as usual, ran perfect for a week (well had some smoke at idle). Then after that week its back to a rough miss at idle and enough smoke to clear the block of mosquito's.

Hooked it back up to the snap on and had the same cyl#7 contribution. Nothing on injector performance though, since it was replaced. I assume its missing because it has low compression on that cylinder and at idle its not enough to get a combustion. At driving speeds it hits on all 8.

Still raises the question as to why it ran fine for a week after being torn down both times. I haven't had a compression test done (Was too broke to pay for one..), but it has a LOT of blow by, so I ASSUME that #7 has a massive loss of compression, as its the only one showing a miss/ contribution fault.

LTMGLOBAL. I am in TX an hour south east of Dallas. Have pics.

 

What color was this smoke?

 

It is white with a slight blue tint. Smells very sweet, I am pretty sure it is unburnt fuel.

 

It only smokes at idle. Once it is up to full temp, it doesn't smoke nearly as heavy, but it is still there. Sometimes it will idle perfect when hot sometimes it will have a slight miss. Another thing to note is the occasional sound of (I think) detonation. Hot or cold doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Sometimes it makes the loud fuel knock sound, sometimes it doesn't.

 

Sounds more like oil. Unburnt fuel won't have a blue tint. Are you positive you do not have a head gasket failure? A bad injector will not create "lots of blowby" so your left with 2 choices. Head gasket failure or mechanical failure (such as broken rings, cracked piston or deeply scored cylinder wall.)

 

White smoke and sweet? That's coolant. Sounds like option number 1 from redford, a blown (or improperly installed) head gasket.

 

Hey guys first off, thanks for the help! I just expected to get some pricing advise, but if I can be proven wrong, and there is any glimmer of hope I will be a very happy man!

I know that an Injector can't cause the blow by. So I had come the the conclusion that the injector must have failed in the open position, over fueled, and the excessive heat from that could have burned the rings, cracked the piston, or caused various other damage. Cracked head or burned valves maybe?

I don't think it is head gaskets as I have no loss of coolant (that I can see), and no puking from the degas cap. It should be noted that here just recently I have been running it with distilled water only and no antifreeze. I know not the best idea.. I am waiting for the proper coolant to come in. No one around here carries the CAT ELC. Would just distilled water make the sweet smell?

I will check my oil here in a bit and let you know how it looks. I usually keep up with my fluid levels though and I haven't noticed any loss of oil. I am running Mobil 1 full Synthetic turbo diesel truck oil and have Rev-X'd it, and in this Texas heat, I doubt I have any stiction causing the rough idle.

I have had this thing torn down about 5 times in the past year so if I need to do some digging again I can, as much as I hate it lol.

If anyone can recommend a good gauge that will fit the GP holes in the stroke for relatively cheap, then I can do a compression test if you think it is needed at this point. I think I saw one on harbor freight a long time ago?

Thanks again guys, -Brian.

 

I don't think a compression test is appropriate. You know where the bad cylinder is already.

Maybe one of those inspection cameras that fit into a GP or spark plug hole would be helpful.