1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Rear speakers

  #16  
Old 06-25-2013, 10:10 PM
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^lol. im debating that if the functionality and cost of that headliner would, in fact, outweigh it's appaling-ness...
 
  #17  
Old 06-25-2013, 10:19 PM
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our 86 F150 has 6x9 speakers behind the seats in the cornor sounds great and stays out of the way. Only problem we had was the speaker would fall while off roading so we had to tie them back to the cab. I am personally going to do the same thing on my 88 F150 regular cab. I like it and it works great.
Trav
 
  #18  
Old 06-26-2013, 06:32 AM
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I didn't pay a dime for it, like I said I bought the truck with it. It looks like cheap plastic all shinty and ****, but it sounds good. And most people don't notice it until I crank up some music, which I like my put put of my little tractor engine so it doesn't happen often
 
  #19  
Old 06-26-2013, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by garthneddy
Are you looking for more volume or better sound quality? I can tell you from personal experience that you will get the best sound with a quality set of 6.5" components and no rear speakers. The science of it is way over my head, but if you enjoy a good read then you should do some research on some car audio sites.
Sound quality is my main concern but volume never hurt nobody. It's always nice to crank up some zz top and it not be distorted. I've thought about components for the doors just wasn't sure if there was enough room behind the speaker grill on the door panel to conceal the tweeters. I can't stand to see tweeters sticking out of something. Do they make any components that are in a 3-way speaker configuration? That would solve that problem pretty easy.
 
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:26 AM
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Try
these these
. Currently $18.88 and free shipping if you are Prime.

I'm not recommending them, but they were the first that came up in Amazon when sorting by price - lowest to highest. And, they fit these trucks, according to Amazon.
 
  #21  
Old 06-26-2013, 11:02 AM
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To achieve maximum SQ you need a solid round cone, so 3 ways would sacrifice some SQ for compactness and ease of installation. That being said, I have some infinitys that had the tweeter mounted in the middle of the main cone and was happy with the SQ of them, but they fall short when I hop in my buddies blazer that has a set of amplified components
 
  #22  
Old 06-26-2013, 11:16 AM
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As long as you don't go with the dual cone, the dreaded "whizzer cone" then the SQ of the coaxial speakers can be very good. We are blessed that the speaker location on these trucks is so high in the doors so the tweeters have a reasonable path to our ears - as opposed to many vehicles with the speaker in the lower front corner of the door. After all, our ears aren't on our ankles! So going with the better ones that have the ability to tilt the tweeter is even better.

Another trick that helps a bunch is to quasi-seal the door. You don't want ANY of the back wave coming into the cab as they will be out of phase and cancel the front waves - especially at lower frequencies. Use Peal & Seal or somesuch to cover over all holes, and layer the inside of the outer door skin with it to keep vibration down as well as to seal it. And install new window seals. Do your best to keep the waves inside the door, and any that do get out should go outside, not inside.
 
  #23  
Old 06-26-2013, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
As long as you don't go with the dual cone, the dreaded "whizzer cone" then the SQ of the coaxial speakers can be very good. We are blessed that the speaker location on these trucks is so high in the doors so the tweeters have a reasonable path to our ears - as opposed to many vehicles with the speaker in the lower front corner of the door. After all, our ears aren't on our ankles! So going with the better ones that have the ability to tilt the tweeter is even better.

Another trick that helps a bunch is to quasi-seal the door. You don't want ANY of the back wave coming into the cab as they will be out of phase and cancel the front waves - especially at lower frequencies. Use Peal & Seal or somesuch to cover over all holes, and layer the inside of the outer door skin with it to keep vibration down as well as to seal it. And install new window seals. Do your best to keep the waves inside the door, and any that do get out should go outside, not inside.
What's quasi-seal? I googled it but it came up some kind of jap cartoon. I assume its about the same as a dynamat type product which I will be doing on the door behind the door panel but I didn't think abount inside the actual door. I'll have too look into that as well. Also does anyone have a good recommendation on a speaker brand? I've always used Polk and been very happy but I've been out of the game for a while.
 
  #24  
Old 06-26-2013, 11:52 AM
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quasi
Web definitions
quasi(a): having some resemblance; "a quasi success"; "a quasi contract".
wordnetweb.princeton.edu/perl/webwn

So "quasi-seal" would have some resemblance to completely sealing the door. Not a product but a process, or act.

I like Boston Acoustics. Polk is good as well. And there are others. But I haven't played with audio for a decade so things probably have moved on quite a bit.
 
  #25  
Old 06-26-2013, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
quasi
Web definitions
quasi(a): having some resemblance; "a quasi success"; "a quasi contract".
wordnetweb.princeton.edu/perl/webwn

So "quasi-seal" would have some resemblance to completely sealing the door. Not a product but a process, or act.

I like Boston Acoustics. Polk is good as well. And there are others. But I haven't played with audio for a decade so things probably have moved on quite a bit.
Ahhh that makes sense. Yeah I will defiantly seal it all up. I think I'll stick with the polk speakers too. They have been good for me on every truck I've owned. But I have been hearing a lot more about the Boston acoustics
 
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