My '02 doesnt have the normal $10 blower motor resistor like this:



I have the electronic air control (with "AUTO" air mode) on the dash which has a more sophisticated, and expensive ($50 used from junkyards), blower motor controller.

Looks like this (and in same location on passenger underhood firewall as the regular resistor):






Anyways, I was cross-referencing part numbers and figuring out ford part number nomenclature, and I was going to chance a lincoln truck or explorer version of this thing. That was about a month or more ago.

All the while this thing is out of the vehicle, and driving it is terrible even with the back AC working.

So to make a long story short, I disassembled it by desoldering the piece inside of the finned heat sink there. There are 4 desolder points, two are on the component inside the heatsink that looks like a dime, and two are actually brass rivets holding the heatsink to the PCB. Getting these desoldered (and later resoldered) was quite difficult as the heatsink draws away all the heat so you need a super hot iron, or in my case, I used a propane torch to keep reheating my iron (away from the part).

What I found was that the black box on the PCB, which is a mini relay, had a burnt wire lead on the PCB going to it. I had to test the relay to find this out by applying 12V to the "coil" pins and checking for continuity between the other two pins.

Relay data here:
CP1A-12V-X datasheet pdf datenblatt - Nais(Matsu****a Electric Works) - ULTRA-MINIATURE, LOW PROFILE AUTOMOTIVE RELAY ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

That's how I found one lead was burnt. So I made a wire jumper to replace this and then the relay worked again.

I reassembled in reverse order, I riveted the board back to the heatsink and globbed solder (with heat boosted iron via propane torch) over the rivet heads, like the factory did, to keep everything in place, and reinstalled, and now my blower fan works.