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Time for injectors?

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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 07:27 AM
  #1  
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From: Cleburne
Time for injectors?

Truck: 1995 F350 4x4 7.3 PS standard transmission
Symptoms:
1. Towing 16' enclosed trailer from Fort Worth to Odessa. Overheating? Gauge was 3/4 way up? I hate gauges without degrees.
2. Does not seem to have the power indicative of the name "Power Stroke"
3. Seems like its missing a little.
4. Air conditioner makes temp go up even more.
5. Engine seems to surge.
6. After setting a day or two, engine is hard to start. Idi, this is a symptom of the nozzles leaking, PS I don't know. I don't have much experience with them.

Is there a way to test them on the truck?
Where is a good place to buy them? If that is the case.
If I do change them, I plan on changing the glow plugs and gaskets while I'm in there.

Thanks for any advice you guys can give me.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 07:31 AM
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From: Cleburne
Oh, and I got passed by a Chevy half ton pulling the same type trailer! This made me hotter than the truck!
 
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Royson12
Truck: 1995 F350 4x4 7.3 PS standard transmission
Symptoms:
1. Towing 16' enclosed trailer from Fort Worth to Odessa. Overheating? Gauge was 3/4 way up? I hate gauges without degrees.
2. Does not seem to have the power indicative of the name "Power Stroke"
3. Seems like its missing a little.
4. Air conditioner makes temp go up even more.
5. Engine seems to surge.
6. After setting a day or two, engine is hard to start. Idi, this is a symptom of the nozzles leaking, PS I don't know. I don't have much experience with them.

Is there a way to test them on the truck?
Where is a good place to buy them? If that is the case.
If I do change them, I plan on changing the glow plugs and gaskets while I'm in there.

Thanks for any advice you guys can give me.
lets start with what if any mods you have done to the truck? then where is 3/4 on the gauge to you, near the a or l of normal? the a/c making the truck heat up more isn't too unheard of if you are pulling a large load up a steep grade. do you at least have a boost and pyro gauge? could be boost leaks stopping some of your power.. but if thats the case hopefully you are able to keep an eye on your egt's to make sure you are not cooking your engine.. as far as the truck sitting for a couple days and starting hard, have you checked the oil level in your hpop before you try to start it after sitting for a couple days? really easy thing to check to eliminate that question!
 
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #4  
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No mods. No pyro gauge, no boost gauge. Bone stock.
Load is not heavy at all, minimal load in it.. Heat gets up to the l pulling a hill with the trailer, even dropping to a lower gear. What is "Hpop"? Thinking on putting a chip in it. With gauges, of course. But, I think it should have more power than it does, even being bone stock. Like I said a half ton Chevy passed me, pulling a similar trailer.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #5  
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These trucks are no power monster stock that's for sure, I would definetly recommend guage install before a chip like you say then you can monitor temps, depending on the grade and temperature where you are pulling it's tough to say but getting to the l is pretty hot, could be a faulty thermostat.. But does it heat up at any other time or just pulling up a grade with a load?
 
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 08:01 PM
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What is the condition of the cooling system? miles on the truck?any previous work done?
I wouldnt be chipping anything i wasnt absolutely sure was running correctly with ALL maintence up to date. Gauges should be installed and monitored before any tuning.not that chipping an otherwise completly stock obs does not a race truck make.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #7  
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Before you do any mods make sure the truck is running in tip top condition

I towed a 16' enclosed with 3 scags, trimmers, blowers and everything else need to run a lawn service for years completely stock and didn't have any issues.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 09:44 AM
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From: Cleburne
Originally Posted by bryanlindborg600
These trucks are no power monster stock that's for sure, I would definetly recommend guage install before a chip like you say then you can monitor temps, depending on the grade and temperature where you are pulling it's tough to say but getting to the l is pretty hot, could be a faulty thermostat.. But does it heat up at any other time or just pulling up a grade with a load?
Just pulling a grade, but it runs hot on flat ground with a trailer, just not as hot.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #9  
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From: Cleburne
Originally Posted by fordman67
What is the condition of the cooling system? miles on the truck?any previous work done?
I wouldnt be chipping anything i wasnt absolutely sure was running correctly with ALL maintence up to date. Gauges should be installed and monitored before any tuning.not that chipping an otherwise completly stock obs does not a race truck make.
Cooling system, I will check again. But it was in good shape couple of months back. Truck has 210,000 miles. I don't want a race truck, just pull a trailer. My old 89 7.3 would out pull this truck.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #10  
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From: Cleburne
Originally Posted by fordpride
Before you do any mods make sure the truck is running in tip top condition

I towed a 16' enclosed with 3 scags, trimmers, blowers and everything else need to run a lawn service for years completely stock and didn't have any issues.
You have a lot more in your trailer, than I do in mine. I woul rather leave it stock, if I can get it to pull.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 09:50 AM
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From: Cleburne
Is there a way to tardy the injectors? Do I have to take it down and have them put it on a computer?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 01:28 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Royson12
Is there a way to tardy the injectors? Do I have to take it down and have them put it on a computer?
if you have access to a scanner like an aeroforce or snap on you can do a buzz test to test the injectors, but that won't tell you if they are firing as they should, but from your description i wouldn't lean toward injectors. looking into the cooling system is number 1, check for cold spots on the radiator and hoses top and bottom side to side. thermostates are cheap and easy to replace.. can you describe the "surging" is it under heavy acceleration,at an idle or all the time.. you are getting around the mileage for doing injectors and you hpop, (high pressure oil pump) but those don't sound like they are giving you your symptoms...

you can check the level of your hpop by pulling the top right allen bolt from the oil pump which is basically the first big item you see behind the radiator on the top of the motor, has a few sensors coming out of it and you will see the allen bolt on the top right, when you pull it you should see oil a 1/2' down from the top!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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From: Cleburne
Originally Posted by bryanlindborg600
if you have access to a scanner like an aeroforce or snap on you can do a buzz test to test the injectors, but that won't tell you if they are firing as they should, but from your description i wouldn't lean toward injectors. looking into the cooling system is number 1, check for cold spots on the radiator and hoses top and bottom side to side. thermostates are cheap and easy to replace.. can you describe the "surging" is it under heavy acceleration,at an idle or all the time.. you are getting around the mileage for doing injectors and you hpop, (high pressure oil pump) but those don't sound like they are giving you your symptoms...

you can check the level of your hpop by pulling the top right allen bolt from the oil pump which is basically the first big item you see behind the radiator on the top of the motor, has a few sensors coming out of it and you will see the allen bolt on the top right, when you pull it you should see oil a 1/2' down from the top!
Surges at idle. I'll check that oil. But what about the hard starting? That's not a symptom of leaking injectors? On an idi, it is a sign the nozzles aren't seating right and the fuel is leaking from the injector, into the pre combustion chamber. Causing the injector to lose its "prime". And what about the hp problem? You think that might be the Hpop?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 06:51 PM
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If you're noticing a miss, have you checked the valve cover wiring harnesses?

By hard starting, do you mean you have to crank longer to get it to fire? Do you have any discoloration in the fuel bowl? Like possible oring pieces from injectors? Have you ever tried a free rev in neutral? If not, try it up to 3k or so, see if it stumbles or anything on the way up.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 06:58 PM
  #15  
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From: Cleburne
Originally Posted by 427 fordman
If you're noticing a miss, have you checked the valve cover wiring harnesses?

By hard starting, do you mean you have to crank longer to get it to fire? Do you have any discoloration in the fuel bowl? Like possible oring pieces from injectors? Have you ever tried a free rev in neutral? If not, try it up to 3k or so, see if it stumbles or anything on the way up.
Yes it turns over quit a few revolutions before it starts. After a couple of days it gets worse. I haven't checked valve cover gaskets, I don't know how. If I break it down that far, I plan on new injectors and glow plugs, while I'm in there.
 
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