nearing the end of my 351C rebuild and am confused on what the proper procedure is for engine break in.

ive heard to not let it below 1500rpm for the first 30minutes,
not to go above 1500rpm for the break in,
not above 2000rpm for 1000 miles,
start it up, rev it up, hope it don't blow up,

got new iron rings on a fresh hone job,
new cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, valves, valve guides, and valve springs,
new cam bearings,
new timing set,
new oil pump, (rebuild kit)

what is the best/ most widely accepted break in procedure?

 

I was confused as well and what I did was run the motor about 2000 rpm for 30 min and changed the oil. Then just run it like you drive it daily.

The guys at the speed shop that assembled my motor told me to do this and I haven't had a problem

 

I was also told to run at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. This is supposed to get the cam and lifters to wear into each other.

 

yea that's what I had always thought, run it like its running. and that keeps the oil pressure up too.

I bought some lucas break-in additive for it too.

another question just popped into my head, its gonna have to run low for the first few minutes to get the timing set... is that gonna cause a problem?

 

I'm pretty sure you will want to get the rpm up as quick as you can to keep from wiping a lobe.

 

yea I can get the timing close for the first run.. I definatly don't want to shell out the cam...

 

Correct break-in is to get the engine up to 2000-3000 rpm and then vary it within that range for 20 minutes. Don't set it on fast idle and leave it or keep your foot on the accelerator in one place. Being splash lubricated you want all to reach all areas of the new camshaft.

Then run the engine for 50 miles, dump the oil and change the filter. Since flat tappet use the right oil especially for break-in. Could be Brad Penn, or Gibbs, or as simple as Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 Racing oil. After that you might use the same oil for regular use. I use that in my Cougar's engine while four others use Delo 15W-40 which has very high levels of zddp that reminds one of days past.

 

would regular SAE30 with lucas break in additive be sufficient?

 

very helpful website-backs up a lot of historical and not always proveable point about this type of break in.
big one is very careful of flat tappet cams and use ZDDP additive and if really worried, a high ZDDP oil for the life of the engine-after that, try this site


Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

Since you're asking this in the Performance forum, the answer is NO. I discourage the use of additives because people consider them temporary.

In a performance motor you want something with zinc and phosphorus for lubrication ALL THE TIME... flat tappet or roller.

Brad Penn oil is good.

 

RIKIL-X2 on the good oil-
I do believe that the use if an extra break-in additive, especially for the first stage of break in where everything wears in, is good insurance especially if it is cheap (relative).
also DO NOT use synthetic for break in. On the website I posted. Heard it before, but anecdotal.

 

not so much a performance engine. just a stocker with a cam... I did end up using the 30 and additive, cuz that's what I had... and the little instructions that came with the cam recommended 30... I don't usually follow instructions

 

That Brad Penn has to be the absolute worst oil out there. I tryed it in my big block when I rebuilt it. It got dirty, green to black in 100 miles. I assume it was foaming because the fumes were bad in the cab when I got on it and the breathers were leaking. Used it bad too, I was always adding to it. Maybe a qt in 100 miles. Couldn't believe my fresh motor was in that bad of shape then I switched to VR1 and it hasn't used a drop in 600 miles now. No fumes or leaking out the breathers and is as clear as the day I put it in. And the oil psi gauge is a lot more stable too. I'll never use that over priced crap ever again.

 

Geez Mark-say what you really feel LOL. I always liked VR1, but couldn't say why-interesting personal experience about the Bpenn oil as it is meant to be pretty special. After my engine build break in and an extra few thous k's I swapped to castrol edge titanium 20w-50. Only minimal running but wouldn't think there will be a problem.

 

I was so mad after spending $7 a qt on that garbage, still am for that matter