ABS light has been coming on intermittently the last few days.
Checked the resevoir for fluid level...topped up a bit.
Changed the oil today and looked at the sensor connectors on the front brakes...ok
Got a new speed sensor and installed it....ABS is still on.
Checked the old sensor with my meter and it is open circuit....no continuity, so I'm thinking it was the problem

Is there something that has to be reset for the fault to clear, say with a code reader etc?

Any help appreciated.

 

If you have access to a scan tool to see what codes are stored and then
clear them. You can also unhook the battery/batteries (gas/diesel) and
let it sit for 1/2 Hr and it should clear any codes. It will also put you
back is the learning mode because you will clear all the memory
stored in the PCM. Also it will clear all the stereo presets.

Sean

 

OK, thanks for that.
Am I to assume that the ABS light is a "latched" fault that once it comes up it needs to be cleared?
Thought that once the fix was in place that on start up it would sense it and the ABS light would stay off.
I'll try the battery disconnect.

 

Most DTC's need so many drive cycles to clear once they are set and cause a light.
When you checked the wheel plugs did you clean then and put some dielectric grease
in them? I had my passenger side one set a light and it looked good but had a tiny
bit of corrosion that was hard to see but enough to cause a problem. I used
some contact cleaner and toped it off with the dielectric grease. No more problems.


Sean

 

OK...update.

Pulled each connection apart, blasted them with contact cleaner, dryed, applied dielectric grease and reconnected.
Checked all the wiring for signs of rubbing etc...none found.
Disconnected battery for 35 minutes.
ABS light still on....

What sort of resistance readings should I get for the the front brake sensors themselves?
The new VSS reads about 1.9Kohms (like the old one it replaced).

Cheers,
Mike

 

At this point I would find someone with a scan tool that can read the
codes in the ABS module. That will tell you what you need to be looking at.

Sean

 

Scan complete:

C1145...input circuit fault
C1148...right frnt coherency fault

Noticed a tight 90 degree bend in the wiring harness that travels up into the engine compartment, and it had been jammed into a void space to keep it from moving. Gonna cut the convelex and expose the wires to see if they're ok before i order parts.

Lesson learned.....scan first, then buy parts. At least I have a new speed sensor on my diff
The local brake shop wouldn't take a dime for scanning it for me....very cool!!

 

You do still find shops that are willing to help a guy.
They have learned a little free good will can bring
someone back for more work that they are willing
to pay for.

Sean

 

Yup, if I ever need anything that I can't handle myself I will go back to him....told him as much, and by the look of his full shop I'd have to say he's doing everything right!

He quoted me "about $300" for the sensor, but I just ordered one off Amazon for $48. We sure get ripped off on parts up here in Canada.

Cheers.

Mike

 

Hmm, I see a black market or maybe just gray.
What do you think? The bitch would be crossing the border multiple
times and the RCMP and customs getting noisy and thinking drugs.
I sure don't want my truck scrapped while they LOOK.

Sean