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I'm not sure how my numbers ended up being off. I was shooting for 9.5 or less. The only thing I can figure now is that I miscalculated my deck height clearance. The motor is together and I can't easily measure that.
If the truck doesn't like hills now just retard the timing back to 32 degrees and it'll really be a turd.
And if he does have detonation issues, what's your sugggestion for fixing the broken pistons resulting from it ? It may just have too much advance in the ignition causing the poor hill climbing. His combo of that cam and too much compression and those small chambered C8 heads might not like 36 degrees of total timing. But it would be really simple to check, simply by pulling back on the timing and seeing how it does then. Don't be so ready to poo-poo something that you seem to not understand.
I have built many 390, 428, 427 engines and a few were used for daily drivers. Those worked very well with stock 1850 Holley 600 cfm carburetors. Very responsive. To extract the most hp out of his combination, a 735-780 cfm carb would work better, but the carb size is not causing his problems. There could be many possible problems, but most likely would be timing.
I've heard various opinions on cfm. Most seem to say the 600 is planty big enough so I tend to believe that. I've heard guys say a 600 is small for even a 350 Chevy. It all depends on max rpms and I don't plan on ever taking it over 5000. My problem probably lies in the compression ratio and/or timing. They say most carb problems are actually timing issues.
I've heard various opinions on cfm. Most seem to say the 600 is planty big enough so I tend to believe that. I've heard guys say a 600 is small for even a 350 Chevy. It all depends on max rpms and I don't plan on ever taking it over 5000. My problem probably lies in the compression ratio and/or timing. They say most carb problems are actually timing issues.
And they are right. Or something else related to the ignition system. The carb is small for that engine size, but all that will do is limit the topend power, it will improve the bottomend and throttle response. It more than likely will need to be tuned (jets and metering rod changes) to get the fuel curve where it needs to be with the vacuum being pulled on it with that many cubes sucking thru it. Try pulling back the timing a few degrees (4-6) and see how it runs, then work on tuning the carb. Read the spark plugs first before touching the carb.
I backed it off to 6* and it didn't run much better but ran really hot so I parked it. I'll monkey with the timing at 12* and see about the vacuum advance, if I can't make any headway I guess I'll yank the motor out and measure everything again and see where I need to make adjustments. I don't really want to run 10.5 compression, but if that's the lowest I can get with my combo then I'll upgrade the camshaft.
What octane fuel are you running in this ? Should be no less than 93 octane. I would also check to see that the balancer's outer ring hasn't slipped, giving you a false reading on the timing. Get #1 to TDC and see where the pointer is in relation to the balancer's timing marks.
I'm running 93 and I checked the balancer a few weeks when I had the distributor out. I brought it to top dead center and the line and pointer were aligned.
Not to sound like a broken record but if I were you i'd try an adjustable vacuum canister, your motor is no longer stock but you're using a vacuum canister calibrated for a stock application.
Put a timing light on the motor with the vacuum advance line connected, you should see 14-16 degrees of vacuum advance (on top of your initial advance), if it's much less i'd consider an adj. vac. canister that can be "tuned" so you can get the vacuum advance dialed-in.
If you're running your Eddy carb "right outta the box" i'd also recommend fattening up the mixture a bit with a metering rod and/or jet change.
Put a timing light on the motor with the vacuum advance line connected, you should see 14-16 degrees of vacuum advance (on top of your initial advance), if it's much less i'd consider an adj. vac. canister that can be "tuned" so you can get the vacuum advance dialed-in.
Just to clarify this: He will only see that if he's connected it to full manifold vacuum. With it connected to ported vacuum, he will see no change at idle.
Just to clarify this: He will only see that if he's connected it to full manifold vacuum. With it connected to ported vacuum, he will see no change at idle.
Good point, I neglected to mention that as i'm pretty sure the OP is sourcing a ported vacuum signal for his advance.
The first thing I do will be check the vacuum advance. Like I said, I originally went into this with 9.5 to 1 compression planned, I must be missing something now when I calculated 10.5 to 1. So I'll check the vacuum. I did go a few steps richer with the jet and rod set I got but I'll mess with that some more also.
Now if i hook the vacuum to a manifold port, will that show me how much vacuum I'll pull with it hooked to the ported slot?
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