I needed to replace both front calipers but my Haynes manual photos were a little grainy and small. With some help from fellow FTE members, I had the calipers off in minutes.

Tools required:Overview
Remove brake hose and bracket, then carefully lift caliper up and off the rotor.

Steps

1. Loosen and remove the 9/16" banjo bolt located on the top side on the caliper. The banjo bolt attaches the brake hose to the caliper. Tie the dangling brake hose out of the way.
2. Loosen and remove the 9/16" bracket bolt located near the bottom of the caliper. The bolt is flanged near the head and may require a little force to break free and loosen. When bolt is extracted nothing will fall or come loose. That happens in step #4
3. Place something below the caliper to catch it in case it comes loose in step #4. I used a piece of 1x12x12.
4. Using a brass rod and hammer, tap the bracket from the outside towards the engine compartment. You will have plenty of room for it to push through. Warning: caliper may fall as soon as the bracket is pushed all the way through (see step #3). Note: using a brass rod instead of a steel punch lessens the likelihood of damage to the bracket and/or caliper.
5. If caliper did not fall, lift it up and off the rotor.

Tools needed for job:




Using a brass rod to remove the caliper bracket:



Caliper removed.




This guide may also apply to other years of F-350 (80-86).

 

Installation Overview
Installation is the reverse of removal.

Warning: Always replace calipers (and/or brake pads) in pairs.

Steps

1. Before beginning, have all of your tools and parts within reach. You will need a new bracket spring (which should come with new calipers). If using your old calipers, be sure to get new springs from the parts store. They are cheap.
2. Insert new pads in caliper. Note: Pads have two slots with different thicknesses, and should only go on one way. Be sure you have the organic material facing toward the rotor prior to continuing.
3. Place H-bracket spring on top of H bracket with tabs facing down. The H bracket should have rounded slots on one edge. These also need to face down. Position the pre-assembled H bracket where you can easily reach for step #5
4. Lift caliper up to hub bracket with one hand, and position into top half of hub bracket. It will take some strength to hold it in place while you get the H bracket and spring with your other hand (Step #5)
5. With your free hand, pick up H bracket while keeping the spring in place. Position the H bracket on bottom half of hub bracket. You should be able to just snug the end of it into the open slot long enough to reach for your hammer.
6. Using your hammer, lightly tap the H bracket a couple times so that it is secure. Then use your brass punch to drive it in the rest of the way.
7. Note where the rounded edge is on the H-bracket. Line this up with the open threads on the hub bracket. Insert bold and tighten to the specified torque.
8. Install new brake pad spring (comes with new pads - do not reuse the old one).
9. Reconnect brake hose

Many of the front brake parts are cheap and on an old truck it is well worth replacing the cheap stuff such as hoses while you are doing your brakes.



Make sure you have a firm brake pedal before putting the truck in gear (bleed the brakes).



Parts at the ready:



Using a brass bar to punch in H-bracket.



Almost done:

 

Good write-up, though I'd highly recommend name-brand pads. They WILL haul a vehicle to a stop more quickly!

 

Quick follow-up on installing the new brake hose clips. Wait to connect the steel line until after you put the clip on the rubber hose fitting. The clips have a solid back section and can't be installed with the steel line screwed down. If you're like me a few curse words may be spoken during clip installation, but they will go on.

Also recommend having an offset 7/16" flare wrench on hand to tighten down the brake line after getting the clips on. Don't use a standard open-end box wrench for this, you'll be sorry.