Hey Dave... If I were you, I would do like everyone else suggested and replace them

-The Great

 

That's the plan. They're also going to get a heck of a lot more grease in the hubs than what they had - it was pretty sparse in there.

 

All I can think is, Say you put the old ones back... how much would you be kicking yourself 10k miles down the road and they need replaced... you already have the tough part done. Good Choice

-The Great

 

Why do things like this show up AFTER I no longer have the cash? If anyone is interested...

1977 F250 High boy 4X4 | Trucks for sale on Fort Leonard Wood bookoo!

 

Dave
Another view point is I had rather have 1/2 worn out original bearings than brand new bearings made in China. If I was replacing them I would try to find American made if possible.
Larry

 

Have Auto Zone order Timkin bearings. Larry has a point. The outer bearing is done, but the inner looks just fine. I've also put worse bearings back in and not had an issue. The outer bearing was just hot. I don't see any galling or pitting in the rollers. The temper in the steel is what I'm worried about. Your call.

I have some tinkering to do out in the shop today. I may get into the Chevelle again. I ran all the wires yesterday and cut everything to fit, but today I want to tape up the harness to protect it and keep it orderly.

 

i guess not being there i person i am not seeing the problem with daves bearings.. but i am kinnda with larry on this i would rather use good factory bearings than toss in some aftermarket "chinese" junk for no good reason .. but not seeing or feeling the old bearings i hate to say anything

 

i guess i may be weird or just cheap.. when i did the frt. brakes on the 51 i gave some thought on switching to a roller bearing conversion. . but decided that the old ball style bearings worked on cars for almost 100 years and didnt see a good reason to spend 100.00 just because it is what most shops do... but i have been called so tight that i squeak when i walk..ha ha ha ha

 

Yes to all of the above. Spend a bit more now and not have to do it again next week - not that I've had that many problems with bearings when I've done the maintenance. When it comes to tapered roller bearings in a HD application - I believe in clean and regrease when changing the pads.

The driver's side is buttoned back up, the tires rotated front to back, and everything lubed up. I've got the passenger's side apart and I'm halfway through prepping the new rotor to go back on the spindle. The Scouts are coming here in a bit to take inventory of their camping stuff and get it back in the Scout trailer. I'll have my garage back for a few minutes until I unload the sheetrock from the van. It's been stored there since I picked up the Durango from Chip ages ago.

It's felt good to be getting greasy again and my rebuilt $20 shop compressor works great - air tools rock.

 

It's 1300 and so far, I've managed to get absolutely NOTHING done! Maybe my afternoon will be more productive?

 

Well back from the tack & feed store sale (and my first dollar) and later on tonight we are going to the "Pick-in in the Park" blue grass festival in Walnut Grove.

No I am not drunk....and have no ides where the goofy grin came from. Working on some around the outside of the house chores.

 

It's got to be the bibs and the saddle...

I am beat. The van is whole again - 4 new rotors, new pads all the way around, e-brake working again, one new rear caliper, new wheel bearings, tires rotated, and the chassis lubed. It also looks like my ball joints are in great shape. Try as I might, I could not find any slop in them at all. Gads - that sounds just wrong when put that way. Too bad our fearless leader has been absent - I could have told him to shut up.

Tomorrow I'll have the kids unload the drywall in it and I can take it out and test drive it.

 

Well, I got my harness taped up in the Chevelle and got my flexplate out. I used grade 8 bolts, but when the engine kicked back against the starter, it bent the bolts and knocked the starter out of alignment. That's what tore up the flex plate. WTH??!!

I guess I have to make a bracket for the back of the starter to keep it lined up so it can't move if that happens again. I've only ever had that problem on a big block before, ...and that had a bad starter bolt hole.

 

That's bizzare Alan, but as you said earlier, a high torque starter and high compression can make some strange bedfellows.

Post up some pictures of the damage if you can. Its not everyday you see grade 8 bolts bend.

 

Grass is cut and one riding mower still works. Good thing I sell belts and bearings, one mower has a bad drive belt and a noisy blade spindle. Now to weedeat, colorsand and maybe rebuild a 1983 Holley/Motorcraft carb.