I get a red error box, too:

 

See that bolt? Take it out, the see the bracket it retains? Use a punch or such, and drive it out. Now the caliper can slide down and rotate out. Installation is reverse. Before doing that though, I typically will use a prybar or big screw driver to get the caliper slid out, saves time using a c-clap or other spreader. With a dual piston caliper like that, you have to move both pistons back together. You can do them individually I guess, but you have to keep one held while pushing the other.

 

The 81 manual is not going to be a help for the rear as, apparently, disc brakes weren't offered in the rear for that year. But I can take pictures of the pages for the front brakes this afternoon. You are wanting to know how to take them apart?

 

It apparently has to do with that section. I can get in to the info for the 88 fine, but not the 84.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and drum.
3. Remove the parking brake lever assembly retaining nut from behind the backing plate and remove the parking brake lever assembly.
4. Remove the adjusting cable assembly from the anchor pin, cable guide, and adjusting lever.
5. Remove the brake shoe retracting springs.
6. Remove the brake shoe hold-down spring from each shoe.
7. Remove the brake shoes and adjusting screw assembly.
8. Disassemble the adjusting screw assembly.
9. Clean the ledge pads on the backing plate. Apply a light coat of Lubriplate®, or equivalent, to the ledge pads (where the brake shoes rub the backing plate).

To install:

1. Apply Lubriplate® to the adjusting screw assembly and the hold-down and retracting spring contacts on the brake shoes.
2. Install the upper retracting spring on the primary and secondary shoes and position the shoe assembly on the backing plate with the wheel cylinder pushrods in the shoe slots.
3. Install the brake shoe hold-down springs.
4. Install the brake shoe adjustment screw assembly with the slot in the head of the adjusting screw toward the primary shoe, lower retracting spring, adjusting lever spring, adjusting lever assembly, and connect the adjusting cable to the adjusting lever. Position the cable in the cable guide and install the cable anchor fitting on the anchor pin.
5. Install the adjusting screw assemblies in the same locations from which they were removed. Interchanging the brake shoe adjusting screws from one side of the vehicle to the other will cause the brake shoes to retract rather than expand each time the automatic adjusting mechanism is operated. To prevent incorrect installation, the socket end of each adjusting screw is stamped with an R or an L to indicate their installation on the right or left side of the vehicle. The adjusting pivot nuts can be distinguished by the number of lines machined around the body of the nut. Two lines indicate a right hand nut; one line indicates a left hand nut.
6. Install the parking brake assembly in the anchor pin and secure with the retaining nut behind the backing plate.
7. Adjust the brakes before installing the brake drums and wheels. Install the brake drums and wheels.
8. Lower the vehicle and road test the brakes. New brakes may pull to one side or the other before they are seated. Continued pulling or erratic braking should not occur.

 

Here's a better shot of what I think you are describing.

What is the flat piece of metal that seems to go in between the bracket and caliper?

 

Gary, I have drum brakes in the rear. I'm replacing all four wheels and showed some pictures of the front calipers.

Rear wheel:

 

There is a spring in there as well, the tabs lock around the bracket for installation and retention. It keeps the caliper tight and not rattling around.

 

Sorry, I thought one shot showed disc brakes on the rear. My bad. I'll check in this afternoon to see if you still need shots from the shop manual, but I doubt it. Looks like you have the support you need.

 

Going to see if I can get this off now.

Just in case I have to come back, does that spring with tabs have to be taken out before the bracket can be punched out?

I'll try to snap some more pictures if I'm able to get it out.

 

Removing the caliper was a cinch, once I understood what needed to happen.

Tools required:Overview
Remove brake hose and bracket, then carefully lift caliper up and off the rotor.

Steps

1. Loosen and remove the 9/16" banjo bolt located on the top side on the caliper. The banjo bolt attaches the brake hose to the caliper. Tie the dangling brake hose out of the way.
2. Loosen and remove the 9/16" bracket bolt located near the bottom of the caliper. The bolt is flanged near the head and may require a little force to break free and loosen. When bolt is extracted nothing will fall or come loose. That happens in step #4
3. Place something below the caliper to catch it in case it comes loose in step #4. I used a piece of 1x12x12.
4. Using a brass rod and hammer, tap the bracket from the outside towards the engine compartment. You will have plenty of room for it to push through. Warning: caliper may fall as soon as the bracket is pushed all the way through (see step #3). Note: using a brass rod instead of a steel punch lessens the likelihood of damage to the bracket and/or caliper.
5. If caliper did not fall, lift it up and off the rotor.

Tools needed for job:




Using a brass rod to remove the caliper bracket:



Caliper removed.

 

Now that I have the calipers removed, I need to replace the brake hose. I've removed the brake line from the back of the hose, but am unsure how to remove the hose from the frame member.

There seems to be a clip behind the frame member keeping the hose in place. Is there a proper way to remove this clip, or should I tap it out with a hammer & punch?

Bottom half of clip behind frame member:


a little blurry but both parts of the clip:



New hose:

 

Did a little googling and found this thread on FTE... very helpful.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-fitting.html

 

I did this job just last week. That clip on the brake hose stumped for a bit as well. What is not immediately evident because of it's conceled location is that the clip is captured until you remove the hard line from it. You have to reach back with a pick or something and lift the far side over the hose as you pry it off with another tool. In other words, Ford used a clip unlike what you'll find on most every other csr ever made since the dawn of time.

 

ive been down this road before, putting lots of $$ into an old rusty truck. I can guarantee you're making the right move, with one statement:

While you may never get the money back out of the truck, $350 for safety is always a great investment.

 

Amen! You will never be sorry that you have good brakes, but very likely will be sorry when you don't.