Any links to jag ifs and IRS swaps would be appreciated. I'm just trying to read as many builds as possible. How do I look up builds. I've found some, but I've tried to find some members but were not able. Thanks to everyone for the help

 

Do a couple more posts so the advance search becomes available. search this forum for the user's name, and/or jag IFS, jag IRS.

 

48 Ford Half Ton Pick Up

There is a build with lots of pictures. He used the IRS and IFS of the Jaguar in his 48 ford pickup.

 

Got the jag blocked up so I can strip it later. Should I take any measurements on shocks? Anything tricky to removing the suspension? When I make new shock towers do I measure after fabbing then buy shock for that length,also do I cut the steering shaft? I hope all the questions are welcome, because i will need lots of info on my build.

 

It's much easier to fab the right length shock mounts than find some odd length shock that's valved to match your springs. Wait on the mounts until after the suspension is installed and truck is sitting at ride height (full weight on front). Use the Jag shocks directly if not leaking or use as gauge for designing mounts and replace with new replacements for the donor Jag. (Use a high quality replacement shock, NOT the heavily advertised junk ones off the discount parts store shelf! Buying good shocks is money well spent.) Collapse the shock completely and measure mount to mount length, extend fully and remeasure. The midpoint length is your target for the upper mount position above the at rest lower mount location, Build the mounts. The mounts are pretty simple in shape, just a rectangular box tipped at an angle to the frame. They can be made to bolt onto the frame with at least three bolts or be welded on. Use the original jag upper mounts as a guide. Disconnect the steering column shaft at the Z coupler. You'll want to use the coupler if you used the soft mounts when installing the IFS.

 

Take every knuckle from the steering and all of the shafts you can there is onethat is expensive to replace. Take the power steering pump and hoses- that way if you have to have hoses made you will have the right ends. I used the pump on my 5.0 but put the valve from the Jag inside it and had hoses made from the %.0 ends at the pump and the Jag end at the rack. Have fun

 

Thanks for the info, I hope to start back in July. Anyone going to Shades of the Past in Tennesee, I hope to see some f1 trucks.

 

I've been looking at the jag irs. The problem I'm seeing is the shocks and frame want to take up same space. If anyone could post some links or pics would be nice

 

Go into my gallery and look at the photos under Jag installation. You will see pix of my shock mounts. Note that I did change the mount slightly from the time of the mockup pix to the final fabricated mounts. I did that to avoid any modification of the inner fender panels.

 

Thanks Bill. The ifs seems to be cut and dry, the irs is my main concern. I have found a guy to help me with my chassis, but the more I can prepare the more I can get done. Have seen some scallop the frame, read holmsey build but can't tell what he did to the frame

 

I apologize, you did say IRS not IFS! I went the 9" route but the first decision I think is to keep or pitch the "cage" for the IRS. It has been done both ways. I suggest that you might email Holmsey. I had his email address before my old computer crashed.

 

Uncaging the rear IS "shows off" the suspension more, but it makes the install more complex, you need to fab or buy locator bars and install them in the right places. Unless you are building a show truck, leave it caged. Slide the rear under the truck and dummy it in place. Hint: temporarily replace the coilovers with solid links set to ride height makes dummying much easier.
Heres a typical uncaged install: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...7/IMG_2659.jpg

Here's the caged suspension un mounted: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...r_subframe.jpg
The common mounting method for the caged unit is a couple square or round tube crossmembers with a plate to bolt the cage to, and front mounts for the lower locator bars to the bottom of the frame so they are horizontal at rest. The frame may or may not require kicking up at the rear depends on the desired ride height.