I didn't see a section for "old Econolines," so am posting this here -- feel free to move it to a more appropriate section.

I'm no longer able to operate the clutch in my 1982 E100. The problem is in the throw of the clutch pedal... if I adjust the clutch to [finally] completely disengage with the pedal all the way to the floor, then with the pedal all the way out, the bearing is still not free of the fingers of the pressure plate. The vehicle is drivable like this, but pretty noisy (with the bearing singing), and I'm keeping it parked until repaired. The clutch and throwout bearing both seem to be fine... I replaced it myself 60K miles/15 years ago, and that was the second time I replaced the clutch. This problem started becoming obvious a couple of years ago, with my having to adjust the clutch more often than usual, and gradually got worse, even though I was driving the vehicle less than 1000 miles a year.

I've read through several threads here discussing clutch linkages (more in the F series than vans), and had the impression that my problem was very likely the bushings in the control rod. I located and almost ordered a set on ebay, but decided to pull it apart first and verify that the control rod was not firm in its attachment, but it is indeed firm, or seems so to me. There is perhaps 1mm play axially, and maybe that or less front-to-back. So I'm guessing the control rod and its bushings are OK (happy to be wrong!).

I also tried my best to find a problem up on the pedal bushings, but they too seem to be firm and not a problem. That leaves the bell crank.

There is more wobble of the bell crank on its pivot than I would like, but it's hard for me to gauge how much is acceptable. It would make sense that the sleeve bearing (or whatever it is) that holds the bell crank to its bracket on the frame might be pretty worn after 220K miles. I called around to the yards here in Tucson and no-one even has a van with a standard tranny, let alone a bell crank, and of course the part is obsolete at Ford. It seems like I read somewhere that that sleeve can be drilled out at a machine shop and then upgraded, but I haven't pulled it off yet, deciding to post a note here and see if I can get a more expert opinion on the situation before I proceed. Is that sleeve replaceable?

Any help/ideas/suggestions much appreciated!

 

Most of the time slop in the linkage will not cause excessive travel in the clutch. Since it has springs and gravity lets the pedal put a little pressure downward, usually slop just requires adjustment to compensate for it.

Excessive travel in my experience is usually caused by pressure plate or a worn disc/flywheel. As the disc gets thinner, and the flywheel wears down in the middle where the disc rubs, the fingers on the pressure plate actually get higher/closer to the throwout bearing. This also messes up the leverage in the pressure plate, and makes the clutch harder on the leg to push.

The pressure plate can also have problems and can have broken pieces in it.

If you want to keep driving it as is, you can. Letting the throwout bearing ride against the fingers is common practice now on the later model trucks with a hydraulic clutch. They ride against all the time normally. You might actually want to put a little more pressure against the throwout bearing and the fingers, if it happens to be sliding/squeaking against the fingers. Not too much though.

 

Thanks very much for responding, Dave. I'd originally decided to replace the clutch when this first started, but was having trouble believing that was the problem (facilitated by my lack of enthusiasm for going through it again). Which led me down the rabbit hole of problems with the linkage. I'd never have thought that it would be OK to let the bearing "rest" on the fingers of the pressure plate. But your description makes good sense, and after adjusting it to be the case, the noises are gone (or at least hidden), so it's good enough until I can devote the time to fix it right.

Thanks again for your info... very helpful.

 

Welcome to FTE

7526 nylon bushings on clutch release rod (from pedal thru toe board to 7B585 bracket). Bushings crack apart, 90 degree ends of rod begin to crack, eventually snap off. Not pleasant!

Same 7526 bushings located on 7A580 rod from 7B585 bracket to 7528 equalizer (Z) bar. Same scenario, bushings crack apart, 90 degree ends begin to crack, eventually snap off.

My guess is...these and the following bushings all need to be replaced.

7543 nylon bushings ride on clutch equalizer (Z) bar pivots. Bushings crack apart/disintegrate, bar then rides on bare pivot studs which wear down to a nub or break off.