6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Major power loss after egr delete

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  #16  
Old 05-08-2013, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kyracer6
Just checked for exhaust leaks can't find none anywhere checked all pipes goin to turbo ad checked up pipe and still no leaks I can't feel no air coming out anywhere unless its so small I can't feel it

OK Lets rule it OK for Now

Do you have a Digital Gauge????

Scan for DTC???
 
  #17  
Old 05-08-2013, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Ever notice how you can UNDO the marmon clamp Bolt and the clamp still hangs on there Tight as Hell and needs some persuasion with a hammer and screwdriver to get the clamp free

But it probably pulled the joint together and sealed it pretty good before the Clamp broke

Even the Marmon clamp would help hold the joint together even when broke


Over time it might have rattled loose and lost the seal IDK

I dont know how it could build 20psi with a Massive exhaust leak when on most these trucks a small leak will cause Huge problems
Mosst the time a small exhaust leak the truck cant get out of its own way
Got me, the clamp broke when I was tightening it, so I just left it loose and drove to The dealer Ace Ventura Style and had plenty of boost and power.

The exhaust smell was overwhelming though... LOL
 
  #18  
Old 05-08-2013, 02:25 PM
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FOR YOUR 2003 YOU NEED to check the following sensors

BARO
MAP
MAF

These^^^are what an 2003 uses for Boost calculations for the Most part

Shure Accelerator postion goes into it to but odds are that wont be the issue
 
  #19  
Old 05-09-2013, 06:46 PM
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Well I've taken it to a couple of mechanics and no one seems to know what's wrong with it but I did talk to a guy he said something about the head gaskets and I've heard that the head bolts can stretch and make the head gaskets leak I'm just wondering if maybe that's what happened
 
  #20  
Old 05-09-2013, 07:33 PM
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If the truck ran fine befor the EGR Deleate I doubt the Bolts stretched

If the headgaskets was the problem it would PUKE

You can put a pressure gauge on one of the Small Coolant lines at the Degass Bottle then drive it Pressure should be 8-12 psi for Good Any Higher PSI NO GOOD

did they smoke the intake check for leaks

Get any gauges Yet???

Now this is Just my Opinion so it DONT MEAN Much But The Problem is these Mechanics None of them Care to spend a Day to track whatever it is Down
 
  #21  
Old 05-09-2013, 09:42 PM
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I noticed earlier I have a smell coming through my vents smells like exhaust fumes and raw fuel and my clutch fan was so loud that I couldn't hear the engine over the fan

And no gauges yet
 
  #22  
Old 05-09-2013, 10:03 PM
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On a cold start the engine is plenty cool and takes a while to heat up, you can easily lay over the top and reach around the turbo and feel for leaks and also from underneathe with the up-pipe junctions.

Josh
 
  #23  
Old 05-09-2013, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kyracer6
I noticed earlier I have a smell coming through my vents smells like exhaust fumes and raw fuel
And no gauges yet


Exactly what I am getting at here^^^You have an Exhaust leak at one of the Exhaust uppipe joints

I suspect this is why you cant build Boost PSI and VERY VERY VERY Common after this type work

Exhaust smell in cab,No Boost,and Gutless truck all go Hand in Hand with an Uppipe exhaust leak Normaly at the Ypipe to Turbo Joint

Slim chance the Exhaust Downpipe leaks at Turbo
If this leaked you would only get the exhaust smell and ZERO Drivability issue so I dont think its the downpipe





Originally Posted by kyracer6
and my clutch fan was so loud that I couldn't hear the engine over the fan
The EGR Valve Must be plugged in even though its deleated for the Fan to work right

A bad temp sensor would cause this fan issue to
 
  #24  
Old 05-10-2013, 06:26 AM
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Here is a thought. these turbos have been known to have the unison ring stick causing the veins to stick. Therefore little to know boost. Its another option. It would be very coincidental if that was it.
 
  #25  
Old 05-10-2013, 09:02 AM
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Do you have the butterfly valve in the intake on this truck for the EGR? You may have added a tune to disable that I missed. Anyway. In addition to the other things you are checking you might take a look at it. I had to run for a short time with stock tune and no EGR. Found it would shut down the valve at the strangest of time. I removed the butterfly from mine so there is no doubt it will not close off.
May be a shot in the dark. But I think you should consider.
 
  #26  
Old 05-10-2013, 09:58 AM
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I vote for a blockage or maybe a sensor

I did the BPD kit a few months back. After the install I had a leak at one of my clamps; and it was pretty significant. I was still able to build above 2 psi, but it didn't run very well. You could definitely hear the leak and feel it at one of the clamps. I suppose if you haven't had the truck long (or diesel long), you may not not know the sound change. I'm still having a hard time with only 2 psi being a leak that can't be felt (don't forget to check at the manifolds where you loosen each side to align the pipes at the turbo).

This may sound like a stupid question, but where there any rags used, stuffed in anything like the cooler tubes or anything else to keep stuff out (that may have been forgotten)? If it's not a blockage, I'd go with one of the sensors every else recommended. I would probably put my old turbo back in or at least the original VGT solenoid. Now you have additional variables. The replacement VGT can cause issues. During my BPD install I also did my turbo. The solenoid that came wiht the turbo didnt work quite right and had little surges (put the old solenoid in and it fixed it).
 
  #27  
Old 05-10-2013, 02:53 PM
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Found raw fuel smell my fuel filter cap is cracked and I have no exhaust leaks anywhere I've checked a million times already and my ic pipes are air tight side a air check on it
 
  #28  
Old 05-10-2013, 09:11 PM
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They sell ScanGaugeII at AutoZone around $$160.00

SGII will give ability to check all sensors on the 6.0L for engine and even some trans

Now they Sell a Tool called AutoEnginuity with Ford Enhancements its the Best thing Going for a DIYer

Its Around $$360.00 from Clay at RiffRaff Diesel

Check it out here Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

Click ME^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Iv heard great things about them AE with ford enhanced!!! You will be able to check ALL DTC Engine--Trans--ABS Brakes EVERYTHING for Codes!!!!

It will also Allow you to control the VGT for turbo for testing
It will also Allow you to control the IPR for the HPO
Allows a Buzz test for injectors
Will do Cylinder Balance testing if you ever have a Week injector thats Not all the way Dead and should pick it up

Im shure it does Lots More

Just all Kinds of stuff so something to think about anyway

We may see the problem with SGII as well but thats just a Gauge so good to always have in the truck

The AE is Software for your Laptop so it has a Cable that Hooks to the OBDII Port But most folks dont keep a Laptop in the Truck
 
  #29  
Old 05-10-2013, 10:20 PM
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I have an sct programmer that reads and clears codes but I'm not sure how good it does
 
  #30  
Old 05-10-2013, 10:37 PM
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Your going to need more than a Code Reader at this point

We got to see Live Data!!!

Keep scanning for codes one may pop at any time but may take a fair amount of driving to set a code and some may have to Fail for Multiple drive cycles

We have all Ford Sensor values for all engine sensor/actuators and a criteria to test with
but you have to see live data at a minimum

ScanGaugeII or Dashboss or Torq App will show live data sensor values they are just gauges that plug into the OBDII Port you cant control engine with these

You may figure it out with that^^IDK or with AutoEnginuity Ford enhanced Package would be the Best and Might be neccasery for your problem

If you have a smart phone I think the guys use the Torq app and set it up for around $30.00

If you could find a Good mechanic that Knows the 6.0L well he could test it out and figure it out for you

But Im thinking your able to do the EGR Deleate so you could fix it you just need a decent scan tool at this point

If you would rather have a Mechanic do it then it would be good to tell us where you are located and you can also post in your area chapter to find a decent mechanic
 


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