E Z wiring harness - Electric Fuel Pump Issue
#31
I've only worked with one EZ harness. It is exactly what they claim it is. I never called tech, but found two truths: 1) It's intended to be plug and play, and in a lot of ways it is, you just have to trust it. 2)It pays in dividends to lay everything out and familiarize yourself with what wires go where. Nothing makes a job easier than thorough planning.
If I ever have to rewire another vehicle I'll gladly buy another EZ harness...it's worth its weight in copper. That said, I'd also take it apart and rework the fuse block groupings to make things the way I wanted them. It's not hard to do, and most things are close to the way you'd want them anyway making regrouping easier.
Peace,
Jim
If I ever have to rewire another vehicle I'll gladly buy another EZ harness...it's worth its weight in copper. That said, I'd also take it apart and rework the fuse block groupings to make things the way I wanted them. It's not hard to do, and most things are close to the way you'd want them anyway making regrouping easier.
Peace,
Jim
#32
Greetings. I have a recently purchased 49' F1 that I've decided needs the original wiring replaced. I've been out of the automotive repair/restore world for about 40 years, but have started to replace the wiring one wire at a time. I'm running into big problems with things like where wires are terminated at lights, horn etc. Am I better off, biting the bullet and purchasing a wiring harness kit? Thanks for the info ahead of time!
#33
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Greetings. I have a recently purchased 49' F1 that I've decided needs the original wiring replaced. I've been out of the automotive repair/restore world for about 40 years, but have started to replace the wiring one wire at a time. I'm running into big problems with things like where wires are terminated at lights, horn etc. Am I better off, biting the bullet and purchasing a wiring harness kit? Thanks for the info ahead of time!
#34
Greetings. I have a recently purchased 49' F1 that I've decided needs the original wiring replaced. I've been out of the automotive repair/restore world for about 40 years, but have started to replace the wiring one wire at a time. I'm running into big problems with things like where wires are terminated at lights, horn etc. Am I better off, biting the bullet and purchasing a wiring harness kit? Thanks for the info ahead of time!
You are at the electrical crossroads most of us have/will face dealing with wiring that is 70 years old and has likely been modified and/or repaired many times over. Most of the time it is best to bite the bullet and replace the whole mess with new, Rewiring can improve the aesthetics as well as the dependability of the vehicle. Replacing one wire at a time can be done, but it means buying a lot of spools of various sizes and colors of wires and deciding which are original wires that are required and which are PO add ons or repairs, and still dealing with 70 year old devices and finding accurate OEM diagrams. If you decide to replace the entire harness, then you must decide if you desire to have the truck's electrical system remain stock, or if you want to upgrade to a modern system.
Prior to 1956 Ford used a 6V Pos ground electrical system and only a few basic essential circuits protected by circuit breakers. If you want to retain that system the advantages are that there are but a limited number of essential wires to replace, and there are companies and suppliers offering plug for plug, connection for connection OEM duplicate wiring harnesses utilizing modern wire, some even use pseudo fabric covered wire to visually resemble the wire used back in the day. The disadvantages are that those harnesses are limited production items and may be hard to find and are usually expensive, you still have an antique system using a voltage and polarity that hasn't been standard since 1955, so it is hard to find new electrical components and accessories that will work with that voltage and polarity and the systems were not designed for expansion, lacking a fuse panel and/or expansion points/capacity. If you have an electrical problem, it may be difficult to find anyone familiar enough/willing/equipped to trouble shoot and repair it and replacement components may take days to weeks to source and obtain, taking the truck out of service.
Many who are not OEM restoration purists, and/or have modified their trucks with newer engines and/or desire to use some or all the modern vehicular accessories and conveniences, and don't want to deal with compatibility issues opt to convert their truck to the standard since 56 12V negative ground automotive electrical systems protected by fuse panels with expansion capability. The advantages are that most compatibility issues are eliminated, new devices and accessories are readily available/stocked from a multitude of sources at mass production prices. New universal wiring harnesses are available with many choices in capacity from 9 to 22 circuits with fuse panels that use fuses/components available everywhere 24/7 from automotive parts houses, big box retailers, to gas stations, to supermarkets and drug stores. Most mechanics worthy of the title are equipped to and familiar/comfortable with working on such a system. These universal harnesses are relatively inexpensive and available from a number of manufacturers and suppliers, The disadvantages are that converting the truck to use a different voltage and polarity is more complicated, but with the resources available on the internet and readily available parts can be handled by the average DIYer. The universal harnesses are just that, universal, so they must be adapted to the vehicle, a more daunting task to those who are not comfortable with working on electrical systems, requires some preplanning, but it is not really difficult with a good set of instructions with the harness and breaking it down into individual circuits and modules. Most universal harnesses have their wires labeled every few inches and color coded as to function. Recently there are companies offering electronic harnesses that use digitally coded/decoded signals over a common buss to control modules that control the vehicle's electrical needs, drastically reducing the number of wires that need to be run and number of mechanical devices in the system.
#35
#36
Thanks everyone, for the great advice, and AX for the great explanation! I think I'm going to opt for the wiring harness and convert to 12V. I know it means changing all the bulbs, new generator/alternator, etc. and a voltage reducer as I want to keep the original gauges. One plus is the wife has already realized this thing won't be running before spring, so I have a while to save up for the harness, LOL In the meantime, I can always be pounding on fenders and starting a list of parts to search for! Thanks again every one!
#37
Ax definitely covered the bases.
The EZ harness is the cheapest I know of. Provides more than enough circuits and with enough wire to route stem to stern on a 20' boat of a Mercury. I've even got excess coiled up and saved for a rainy day.
So far as converting things to 12v there are several options out there. A lot of times a simple voltage reducer will not do the job for a gauge, but other times they aren't needed at all. Then there are places you can get new guts to put in your gauges and keep the old faces. I have seen places (though I can't remember where exactly and don't have time to look it up) that sell kits with new gauge works and sending units.
Lots of guys have worked, or are working on doing that conversion and searching the forums will bring up all the gritty details.
Good Luck!
Jim
The EZ harness is the cheapest I know of. Provides more than enough circuits and with enough wire to route stem to stern on a 20' boat of a Mercury. I've even got excess coiled up and saved for a rainy day.
So far as converting things to 12v there are several options out there. A lot of times a simple voltage reducer will not do the job for a gauge, but other times they aren't needed at all. Then there are places you can get new guts to put in your gauges and keep the old faces. I have seen places (though I can't remember where exactly and don't have time to look it up) that sell kits with new gauge works and sending units.
Lots of guys have worked, or are working on doing that conversion and searching the forums will bring up all the gritty details.
Good Luck!
Jim
#38
I am kinda late to this party, but I missed the thread some how.
I have a EZ wire kit installed and run an electric fuel pump. I have a low draw fuel pump and didn't do the relay, only direct hookup of the wire from the EZ harness. My pump does not run when the ignition key is off. It only runs in the ignition and acc positions. Why it runs in acc I don't know. It hasn't been a issue as of yet, but if it becomes one I'll install a switch so I can shut the pump off in acc mode.
I don't know how or why the original poster's pump runs when the ignition key is off but I would think something is not right.
I have a EZ wire kit installed and run an electric fuel pump. I have a low draw fuel pump and didn't do the relay, only direct hookup of the wire from the EZ harness. My pump does not run when the ignition key is off. It only runs in the ignition and acc positions. Why it runs in acc I don't know. It hasn't been a issue as of yet, but if it becomes one I'll install a switch so I can shut the pump off in acc mode.
I don't know how or why the original poster's pump runs when the ignition key is off but I would think something is not right.
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