Been posting all over the place with the motor build so far, but time to make a thread and get everything in one spot. I'm real happy with my new motor, but the rest of the truck is in need of some work.

Drivetrain:
-I need stronger driveshafts/ujoints. What do I want? 1350? 1410? I don't want to worry about stomping on it on pavement and the thing exploding.
-I need to regear it. 5.13? 5.38? What brand, what all do I need to buy?

I want to change some things with the transmission
-Recommend a shift kit for me
-Recommend a shifter deal
-Should I go full manual valve body?

Electrical
-Spell it out for me, what do I need to do to hook up a 3g alternator
-Thinking I should I throw another battery in. How are the guys that have done this wiring them up?
-Any clean, neat options for cleaning up and labeling all of my wiring under the hood?
-Switch panels, 12voltguy (?) on pirate still the guy to see?
- Need to set fan up on relay, not a question, just stating that so I stop putting it off

 

This is what I have done on my truck and it works well for me (no broken parts yet)

Buy a Driveshaft from under a new model f250 350 or excursion, they come with huge 1350 CV joints, and they are cheap and plentiful, cut it too length (or have a machine shop do so) I skipped the 1350 u joints and went straight to 1410, they operate at a higher angle and are stronger, I ordered mine on Ebay--spicer brand (the forged ones are better)

I don't know what motor your running or what your bronco build is per say, but I'm running 5.13s yukon brand, and that puts my rpms in the right range for offroading, it's a little on the deep side for highway driving. I have a C6 and 44s

I love the my full manual valve body, It holds a ton of pressure, and shifts very hard with no slip between 2 and 3rd gears. I run tractor hyraulic fluid in mine, I don't know if this really helps but it seems to run cooler with the Hydraulic fluid.

3G conversion.

On a 79 Ford. You have to modify the bracket to make it bolt. You'll want to grab an alternator out of the junkyard with pigtails and wires included. Then buy a 200amp or so Maxi Fuse to fuse it to the battery. The stock green and red wire (I believe) splices in with the green wire on the 3gs harness, and you have to jump one wire from one part of the 3gs harness to the other. I'll try and dig up a diagram.

I haven't done dual batteries but I have planned on taking a 150 amp Constant duty solenoid and and isolating the second battery. I would wire the coil of the solenoid to the aux plug on the truck so when the Key is on the battery is part of the circuit, but not when the truck is starting. (In case it's dead)

I have'nt labeled my wires under my hood but I have rewired everything, I got a couple of boxes of different sized loom a bunch of zip ties and some good quality klein crimpers and went to town, now everything looks good and can be disassembled in seconds.




Note the red wire was for freon charging purposes.

Maybe I've been useful for once...

 

Other things, you'll need yokes for the shafts, I built the one for my CV joint, it works good, but I'd wager to say that isn't everyone's cup of tea. I think you can probably order one from High angle driveline or somewhere.

I use my stock shifter, but have considered using a B&M QuickSilver, or MegaShifter.

 

^^^^Ummm.....exactly.

No follow up post necessary

 

Paul, if you want to try a full manual vb, you can borrow my spare. It's the one I took out when I went with the trans brake. It's a reverse pattern, so you will have to keep that in mind. Or if you want to keep it somewhat streetable, put in a Transgo stage II shift kit. Pretty easy to do as long as you follow the directions and will give you a forward pattern manual 1st and 2nd, but if you put it in "D" it will act like a normal auto with much firmer shifts. That's the kit I have in my green F150.

 

Damn TKOC, that post covered just about everything. Thanks.

If I get a shifter I'd think pulling back to shift would be ideal.. so that would mean a reverse full manual vb, correct?

 

Yes, I run a regular shift patter and it works fine, You have to get a shifter setup for the reverse pattern...

 

Get them expensive Spicer ujoints..problem solved.


3g hook up on Fullsize Bronco forum.

Get Yukon gears.

Get wire loom.

 

Don't get Yukon Gears. 9 times out of 10 they are just reboxed from other brands.


I'd go with US Gear, or Motive

 

LEB motas anialate Spicer joints.


Or text your friendly neighborhood drunken wrench turner


They are hit and miss with me. I agree with US, Richmond or Motive

 

Guess I'm going to start with the driveshafts since LEB South mota + LEB North right foot destroyed mine.

 

1410 joints, a dodge pickup had a 1410 yoke to fit a 205, than superduty rear shaft, and axle flange.

Front shaft I never had issues with 1330s....

 

Jesse at HAD.

Tell him what you have and what you want to do. In my opinion 1350s are plenty. Plus, unless you're going to change yokes now you can't go from 1330 to 1410 with an off the shelf joint. Jesse might have them but I'm not sure.

 

I've broken both shafts several times. I found a spare front one in parts shed, guess I already used up the spare rear one.

Dave- 1410 u-joint and no CV?
Kris- 1350 CV or 1350 u-joints?

Think I'd be best off staying CV with my short-ish wheelbase...

1350CV on tcase end and 1410 u-joint on the axle end?

 

1410 not CV.


If you do a cv, stay with the same sized joints on both ends of the shaft. And wile your at it, same size joints on both driveshafts n